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Help a newb with some scraping questions

CountryBoy19

Stainless
Joined
Aug 14, 2012
Location
Bedford, IN
I've just begun scraping, had a few hours private lesson with Rich and it has done me wonders.

I've successfully scraped a prism to ~40ppm, and I've scraped the bottom of my compound and cross-slide to 20 ppm. Rich got the bottom of the saddle done while he was at my place helping me. I still have to do the compound base, the compound dovetails, the cross-slide dovetails, and the saddle top.

At this point I think I have a general idea but just want a double-check.

#1 I'm going to scrape the dovetails on the non-gibbed member of the compound (sliding member) to be parallel (using a King-way clone or similar fixture & the prism).
#2 Then use that as a master for scraping the opposing member, starting with the flat ways, then the non-gibbed dovetail, then the gibbed dovetail, and finally the gib itself.
#3 The order on the saddle will be a bit mixed because the saddle is longer, and the gib is in the cross-slide. I'm going to scrape the cross-slide bottom, then use that & straight-edge to get the saddle flats, then get the saddle dovetails parallel, and finally the dovetails & gib on the cross-slide.

Am I on the right track?

Side question, I'm going to make a diamond hone for the scraper blades. I have an 11:1 gear reduction box that I can put on an 1800 or 3600 rpm motor and end up at 327 or 164 rpm. Is that too slow for a hone?
 
That's the gist of it. Remember to check the squareness of the cross slide to the bed.

My lap runs at 3500 RPM on a bench grinder. Works just fine at that RPM. I know others have done the same successfully.
 
I've just begun scraping, had a few hours private lesson with Rich and it has done me wonders.

I've successfully scraped a prism to ~40ppm, and I've scraped the bottom of my compound and cross-slide to 20 ppm. Rich got the bottom of the saddle done while he was at my place helping me. I still have to do the compound base, the compound dovetails, the cross-slide dovetails, and the saddle top.

At this point I think I have a general idea but just want a double-check.

#1 I'm going to scrape the dovetails on the non-gibbed member of the compound (sliding member) to be parallel (using a King-way clone or similar fixture & the prism).
#2 Then use that as a master for scraping the opposing member, starting with the flat ways, then the non-gibbed dovetail, then the gibbed dovetail, and finally the gib itself.
#3 The order on the saddle will be a bit mixed because the saddle is longer, and the gib is in the cross-slide. I'm going to scrape the cross-slide bottom, then use that & straight-edge to get the saddle flats, then get the saddle dovetails parallel, and finally the dovetails & gib on the cross-slide.

Am I on the right track?

Side question, I'm going to make a diamond hone for the scraper blades. I have an 11:1 gear reduction box that I can put on an 1800 or 3600 rpm motor and end up at 327 or 164 rpm. Is that too slow for a hone?
327 rpm on the hone is about right
Edgar

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
You can lap as slowly as you want. Just acknowledge that you most probably are talking of grinding. Lapping is by definition with a non-bound abrasive.
 
#2 Then use that as a master for scraping the opposing member, starting with the flat ways, then the non-gibbed dovetail, then the gibbed dovetail, and finally the gib itself.


Side question, I'm going to make a diamond hone for the scraper blades. I have an 11:1 gear reduction box that I can put on an 1800 or 3600 rpm motor and end up at 327 or 164 rpm. Is that too slow for a hone?

Why would you scrape the dovetail behind the gib? Also i would only scrape the side of the gib against the sliding dovetail


as far as grinding the carbide anything below 400 is fine.


dee
;-D
 
I've seen where the static side of the gib and gib surface on the cross slide are worn from years of interrupted cuts. Scraping those surfaces ensures the gib is parallel and has good bearing. In the Connely book, he has a whole section on why that is important.

On box way CNC machines, the gibs and the gib holders are often steel. They were never scraped at the factory. I don't see the point of scraping them, but it's a bit different than a dovetail.
 
You can lap as slowly as you want. Just acknowledge that you most probably are talking of grinding. Lapping is by definition with a non-bound abrasive.
Got it! Grinding with a very fine grit wheel!
Why would you scrape the dovetail behind the gib? Also i would only scrape the side of the gib against the sliding dovetail


as far as grinding the carbide anything below 400 is fine.


dee
;-D
Because I thought I was supposed to but now that you mention it you're right, it doesn't make sense to do that.

I picked up a 400 and 1200 grit wheel on ebay and I'm currently waiting for them to arrive. As it turns out the 11:1 planetary I have is only rated for an 1800 rpm motor so I won't be able to get the 327 out of it. I may just try direct-mount on the 1800 rpm motor I have.

ETA, if the gib isn't sitting quite flat would want to scrape the back side (non-sliding side) of the gib just to get it bearing evening on a surface plate right? Or does that not matter? Just tap it in and get a print on the sliding side and scrape that?
 
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