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KingWay question

dcsipo

Diamond
Joined
Oct 13, 2014
Location
Baldwin, MD/USA
Happy New year to you all, first...


Now that i got that out of the way, here is the question. Assume that you have a Kingway with two 2 arc second vials the "V" section is 6" long the post is in the center of the "V" the cross slide is extended so the center of the ball is 10" from the center of the "V". With the 2 Arc second vials one disiion = 0.0002" over 12". The cross vials are indicating the tilt, but i need to calculate the amount of distance at the various touch points. is it safe to assume that one division of the vial parallel to the "V" is 0.0002"*6/12 and the perpendicular vial is 0.0002"*10/12 change? The other question is, would one have to calculate the the drop or rise along the V to the middle point and then calculate the vertical deviation of the ball end from that point?


dee
;-D
 
10 arc seconds is what you need, for 12" its .00058". Your 2 arc second is .00012" (Rounded Up)per a division. You have to calculate it out every time for the distance. Sin((1/3600)*X))*Y That is the formula I use, X=Arc Seconds Y= Base Length. You should Show pictures of your king way.
 
Yes that is how it works.

As an aside I think 2 arc second is not 0.0002"/12

2 arc second is 0.01mm/m. You will achieve very little with that level of sensitivity. You will be off the bubble all the time.

you are right it is 0.00012"/12" using the 4 arc second version would be 0.00024"/12" maybe a bit more sensible. or the 10 arc sec version would be about 0.0005"/12".


dee
;-D
 
Guys, I am going to try to build a King-Way. Where does one procure these sensitive level vials?

Thanks, Steve

The levels are nice to have, but to me, are not the most important part of the device. The "fit's all" guide and the indicator mounting are, to me, more important, and on my reproduction of the small version, I have never yet installed the levels. Maybe I will at some point, but so far the basic status as an all-purpose indicator carrier is the big deal.

So, in general, I would not obsess about levels for it, unless you have a real known need for them. I do scraping from time to time, and generally find that my regular levels are all I require along that line.
 
Related question to this build......

Using un mounted vials brings up the question of mounting them, I was thinking making brass enclosures with a a lexan cover over them. If i am correct vials are mounted using plaster paris into the enclosures, anyone has experience in this area? The enclosure will be just a brass bar with a pocket for the vial and two holes on the end for mounting them to the base with a spring on one end for adjustment.

dee
;-D
 
I have no experience with that, though I would make the holders have a rotating cover like the Starrett machinist level.
 
I picked up level vials from WA Moyer. From my conversation they've done business with Rich and/or his dad for the Kingway.

Here's what he said on protection and potting.

It was very nice visiting with you also. The only reasons for the encased vials was either protection or design. If your design works for your application, you should be OK. You might need to beef the protection up if you plan to distribute this product to others. Plaster was the old standard for potting. Today there are plasters, with low shrinkage and silicons. You might experiment to see what best works for you. I hope this helps.

Best regards,
Don Bauck
Operations Manager
W.A. Moyer Company
Ph: 620-343-2366
 
I buy the vials from Moyer and they do a great job, not sure they sell a complete tube and bosses from them. I used to make my own and fit the glass vialls inside using white paper under it and white silicone and not the plaster. G&B sell vials and complete tubes and bosses. Rich
 
I wonder if making a King-Way with some of the parts plastic and some of the parts metal would induce errors due to temperature. I would think you would have to let the tool acclimate a long time before use.

Since i posted the images i changed a few things. I would make the rods and clamps out of O1 or W1 and harden it, the tray for the levels. could be brass. There are no dimensions on anything, but the rod is 0.75" diameter. verticals about 10" and the horizontal is about 14" Used a 1" ball, could use a 1.5. the tube is 1.875" OD of course all that can be changed to suit your needs. I did not put any pf the adjustments or hardware stuff into the model yet. Given the size of the levels i may need to adjust the trays. All of this is just me doodling it together so i can see the parts i need to make, as i make it i change things as i see it fit. if i were to design it for CAD/CAM and CNC....then it would be different. I admit it is not properly "componetized" that takes a lot of work, and inventor is not sophisticated enough to handle it easily.

Image 1-15-17 at 12.00 AM.jpg
dee
;-D
 
IMO hardened parts are better than required. That is, parts of machinable steel will never wear out in your lifetime so getting them hardened doesn't gain you much. There might also be unexpected gotchas as in clamp parts warping in heat treat so that parts that were a good fit before don't work so well now. And now that they're hard you can't just run a ream through again. The ball might be one exception, but given that it's often used with a ring of brass, bronze or plastic even that might be a judgement call.

There's a tendency to think "why make this just good when I can make it great" and I'm susceptible to that too. I've made items that a friend would say looked like a diamond in a goat's ass. It might be gorgeous but it didn't need to be and might even stand out as an oddity.

Then again, it's your tool and I do cheer for guys making things to suit themselves. They're the ones who will be using the tool, not all the critics on the forum.
 








 
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