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Opinions wanted -Clausing 15" Geared Head Gap Bed Lathe

pmkcolorado

Plastic
Joined
Nov 4, 2014
Clausing Colchester 15"; I have read through the various threads but I am still looking for advice on purchasing the lathe. I cannot test as power is not available. It was recently removed from service. I was able to confirm with the electricians who disconnected and moved it that it was in running order. Gears/oil look clean. Belts look to be new, no cracking. Missing rear motor cover?; did not have a catch pan; no taper; some tooling & chuck... has been outdoors for 10 days +/-. Not knowing much about this lathe...is it worth the trouble of moving, buying a RPC, etc. if the price is right? thanks for the input...looking to use in home shop.lathe 2.jpg
 

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I would say "recently removed from service" and sitting outside with rust on the tool post is a dead giveaway to pass this "opportunity" up.
 
Why would someone take off the tail end legs..guess you could tear it down and inspect gears.. sure looks like a junk yard lathe, and not worth putting a tarp over it..if the price is right? Got to be something wrong with it or it would have been sold..

Qt:[electricians who disconnected and moved it that it was in running order.] be nice to talk to the lathe hand...I will give you 100 bucks to tell me the truth about that lathe..
 
Thanks for the input...more info. The selling company routinely puts new and used parts and equipment out for scrap. They never list for sale...what tail end legs? Cost of moving with my own trailer is more than what I would be paying for it. I don't mind putting the time and effort into restoring the finish. It was used for producing ceramic prototypes. From what I can tell, it shows little wear. I'm thinking $500 tops...? Unfortunately, I don't have access to the "lathe hand".
 
Clausing Colchester 15"; I have read through the various threads but I am still looking for advice on purchasing the lathe. I cannot test as power is not available. It was recently removed from service. I was able to confirm with the electricians who disconnected and moved it that it was in running order. Gears/oil look clean. Belts look to be new, no cracking. Missing rear motor cover?; did not have a catch pan; no taper; some tooling & chuck... has been outdoors for 10 days +/-. Not knowing much about this lathe...is it worth the trouble of moving, buying a RPC, etc. if the price is right? thanks for the input...looking to use in home shop.View attachment 210304

Those are decent machines and parts are more or less available. If the price is right it's worth fixing.
 
thanks...posted a picture of another CNC just moved outside as well. Very clean but missing the tooling. All manuals, included...crazy!
 
Eeeuw, that Clausing looks nasty. I've seen decent Pacemakers and Monarchs go for $500, I wouldn't touch that rustbucket with your tool :(
 
OK, moved the Clausing Colchester home...now the restoration fun starts. Paid nothing but the deal is once restored, if all works out in my favor, $500. Ways are surprisingly smooth, surface rust on everything except under the removable bellows, rusty cross slide faces, ceramic dust from previous lathe hand. Came with some tooling, Aloris tool set/post (sticking) chuck, taper attachment; but is missing the live center and motor cabinet cover. Unfortunately the electrician charged to disconnect it simply cut the chords short, and the cover was lost when it was moved outside. I was able to speak to the lathe hand who said it was fully operational when removed from service. He is looking for more tooling...
Things I could use help with: This is my first lathe...much to learn!
Why do it...I enjoy learning new things from those who have spent years learning there craft, willing to share their expertise. I hate to see equipment discarded in such a way...I am looking into taking some machining classes at a local trade school as well.
-serial number location
-identifying the year and specs 1999? Model 8031VS?
-wiring diagram; picture of inside motor housing cabinet; electronics
-advice on phase converter;
-cabinet cover or I will fabricate one
-live center but I haven't verified spindle likely 2.12
-advice on restoring, removing rust (acid magic? baking soda rinse)
-I tend to be that guy who dismantles everything, cleans, and reassembles...usually with a few extra parts. What is factory set or what should I stay clear from dismantling?
-will clean and flush all oils, etc.

I would like to hear from Clausing users with similar lathes...


thanks,lathe 7.jpglathe 4.jpglathe 5.jpglathe 1.jpglathe 3.jpg
 
OK, moved the Clausing Colchester home...now the restoration fun starts.

Indeed it does. But first things first :

1. Place the lathe in it's final ( if possible ) location making sure there is ample space behind it and enough space to have an engine lift for the eventual removal of the headstock. What sort of concrete is underneath ? No need to level it immediately but having it on three points ( two wooden planks crosswise ) will help.
2. What tools have you got ? ( compressor ? )
3. Tables. You'll need ( in my experience, which was gathered in the right place :) ) FOUR strong tables. They need not be large. 2'by3' or whereabouts.
4. You'll need a "philosophy" for fixing it. That's easy : fix ONLY what's really broken and that, only to work well enough. Do not "restore" the lathe. If you decide to "restore" do it after it's been fixed. And, absolutely do not remove the headstock unless there is clear evidence this was done before, post factory.

You want a lathe. You do not want a "project". :)
 
great advice; yes I own all the necessary tools, compressor, etc.
I would like to get it back to running, clean, very serviceable condition. I may find out that it is too much lathe and trade/sell to get a 9-13" unit.
Concrete floor that I will need to level.
Agreed, I plan to clean and remove all oils and rust.

Biggest question to answer prior to working on it: What electronics are missing and/or that have to be replaced; pictures of the interior motor cabinet and description/wiring diagram is a must...anyone?
 
Don't you just love electricians ? It must be a really tiring job. The number of times I ve had to undo things fastened with screws that are about 2" too long and then covered in paint. Or the number of times I've done some really nice pipe work and the electrician has come along with his wiring and just tie wrapped his cables to my piping. Grrr !

Then there's the re-wire job where they just throw the off cut wiring onto the floor, it must be really tough dragging a bin over to where they're working.

I've worked with dozens over the years and I'd actually employ about five of them.

Regards Tyrone.
 
Electricians were likely told to just get rid of it...not knowing that the Clausing has value to someone. I am somewhat of a handi-man/wrench and see value in everything. I once rebuilt a Vanagon, stripped down to the shell...still own it.

??? I am still trying to identify the exact lathe. I have been searching everything I can find for Clausing /Colshesters. One You Tube describes that the newer machines could could be wired 220. Anyone confirm?

Serial #: VT 0298 (2505 etched in as well)
 
Motor almost certainly can be reconnected to 220 so main issue will be control gear. At that vintage its unlikely that relays, contactors et al will have native 440 V coils so there will be a transformer inside to provide the necessary lower voltages. Most likely it will be connected off one leg of the three phase so you won't have to change anything when you re-connect to 220. If its across two phases you will need to either change tappings or source another transformer if it doesn't have the necessary extra connections.

Do get hold of a manual and parts book before digging too deep. Its a Colchester so you can guarantee there will be at least 2 "Why The (expletive deleted) They Do That" traps inside, usually involving small parts disappearing into the stygian depths before you get a chance to look at them. So you don't even know what you are looking for. Generally such are sort of logical but ... I find the nice exploded drawings in parts books almost more useful than the manual proper. Scan, print and put into clear, loose leaf binder sleeves. Can help to enlarge appropriate sections so they can be clearly seen from a distance. Pin on the wall, set up an easel or something.

Clive
 








 
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