Results 81 to 95 of 95
04-05-2017, 08:13 AM #81
Another thing to think about is.
Do you have the ram dovetails scraped parallel to one another?
Lets think if the rams backside or opposite end of the clapper, was a bit narrower and as the ram feeds out the back could possibly lift up. Another important thing is to remember you have a shaper and not a jig bore. What was the spec's of the shaper when new? I have my Testing Machine Tools book packed, so looking up the spec's is something I can add later.
If the Tool or clapper end of the ram is with-in .002" I think I would leave it alone.
Why don't you draw a sketch of what it looks like now and take a picture of that and add it to this thread. A picture is worth a 1000 words they say.
You never said...Did you scrape the low area on the machine? Meaning did you scrape the base ways (top front end) low or do you think it wore low there? Sorry to be so lame asking this as I would hate to have you scrape it if it was never designed to be that good.
I was also thinking you could but a mag base on both sides and put the indicator in the center of the ram with ram centered or at it's far back spot. Then watch the middle indicator(s) and see if the back lifts up as the front droops down.
As I said before in all my years of scraping and teaching when a student see's a big error they assume the screwed up and it can sometimes be a burr or some crud, or a error in the geometry test. Like your square being messed up. As I listened I can see how frustrated you are with it all, that's why I say you have to be patient with this. It's easy to scrape flatness but knowing where to scrape and how much to take off is a "Trade or Craft" learned over a lifetime. We used to say 4 years working as an apprentice to a Journeyman.
This is why I sometimes get upset seeing a rookie trying to teach. One good thing about this is it shows it's not as easy as it seems. I do appreciate what your showing everyone as it shows the learning curve. It's wonderful to see your work and your learning from your mistakes.
Thanks for sharing this. I am happy to help. :-) Rich
04-05-2017, 12:40 PM #82
Heres the numbers and checks from the book.
Check twice, then once more, then pick up your scraper, then put it back down and check again...Then have a cuppa tea...Get it straight in your head..... Then start scraping .
04-05-2017, 01:55 PM #83
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04-05-2017, 03:50 PM #84
04-06-2017, 06:24 AM #85
04-06-2017, 08:28 AM #86
04-06-2017, 09:07 PM #87
I'm catching up with the thread only now and I'd wish I'd done so a few day earlier. Anyhow, I want to pick up on something else hinted by Richard: right now you have a great chance of if all three surfaces are indeed flat (straightedge, ram, and shaper base) using Whitworth's three plates principle: you know that the ram and the base match pretty well, according to your bluing. But, as Richard has hinted, it could be that one is concave and the other convex: an easy way to disproof it and, at the same time verify that your straightedge is flat as well is to spot both ram and base once more with it, hinging it as much as you can.
04-17-2017, 05:59 AM #88
Forgive my not getting back - been busy with the Kids & Easter break, fishing and making chips from my sandvic...
In reply to your further questions -
1. Ram Dovetail ways are parrallell within 0.0002" best i can measure.
2. As things stand today - I scraped out the base ways to get the Ram to extend out such that it now sits 0.0018" over perpendicular with the vertical slides. Its a bit more than I wanted - but without having the front end in place to check alignment I am leaving it for now.
3. I will put a photo / sketch / video or something up as soon as I get chance. Still learning how to use this forum features etc.
4. I like the idea of the double indicator rig to check tilt on the ram - i will see what I can do.
5. Big Errors (well lets face it they are most likely to be caused by me - its a good starting place from which to investigate and then pleasent to find its not later ;-)
I appreciate your comments and all those on the thread - my videos on youtube are my contribution to help spread the lessons I am learning the hard way. I should put a channel info video together as - rather than 'This is how I do it' - I make no excuses or suggestions that I can do something - my vids' are my request for advice & comment about 'how should I do it' - I have had some super help and advice - and if even one viewer gains something from the videos they have been more than worth my time uploading.
I hope to update the project soon.
After a few days of no inking up - my fingers are still blue stained !
04-17-2017, 06:02 AM #89
Hi Paolo, I have used the SE to check the loose Gib side of the flat ways - then used that to set the ram off and scrape the fixed gib side - just to verify that I wasn't introducing a convex or concave surface. I am really glad I invested in the SE - it has proven itself several times.
Hinging it was pretty tricky on the 1.5" wide way but I got there.
04-17-2017, 06:06 AM #90
Ive been looking at the Box Levels - handy bit of kit - all Ive seen have been >£100 which at the mo' is money I don't have around. I few months back there was a ruck load up for auction on ebay in the UK - they each went for under £75..... still kicking myself.
Theres a very nice SE on at the mo' wish I had £400 hanging around looking to be converted in to cast iron.
04-21-2017, 09:06 AM #91
A quickie -
What sort of clearance should there be between the Gib and the Ram ?
I have read use anywhere from a 0.001 to 0.003" feeler, elsewhere Ive read set to slide without 'slop' ...
04-21-2017, 01:13 PM #92
Depends on the oil and the oiling system. Should work warm(ish) but not hot. You should be able to move the ram by hand with the "con-rod" disconnected but not effortlessly.
04-21-2017, 02:35 PM #93
04-21-2017, 04:10 PM #94
If your shaper has an oil pump and you feed too much oil it'll flow and be thrown out on the forward stroke and contaminate the surface you are machining. You absolutely don't want that on cast iron. If it hasn't got an oil pump ( continuous pumping ) you should absolutely consider installing one or it won't last long. I suppose the ram has box ways and you should have oiling points 2-3" before the ends and in the middle. Otherwise, on short strokes it can starve. I am guessing that way oil is too thick and too sticky. I use 30 weight engine oil in mine and seems 100% happy. If you add oiling points keep the channels perpendicular to the movement or you may loose pressure.
It's good to keep in mind that a shaper is mainly dedicated to hogging metal quickly and cheaply. Splitting tenths is not it's strength.
04-22-2017, 02:01 AM #95
About 0.001 all round, dont let it run tight, make sure the wicks are in place and the wells are way lube every use. Shes gona cut like a champ by the time youre done I reckon. My elliott 14 with milled surfaces, a touch of wear and me at the levers can hold a 0.001" over 6" no probs