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Show us your special scraping device that helps you scrape and rebuild

Richard King

Diamond
Joined
Jul 12, 2005
Location
Cottage Grove, MN 55016
This morning I got a call from my customer and he asked me to come in around 11:00 as he has to machine some parts. He is an owner operator 2 man shop and he is helping me do the rebuilding of his CNC mill, so I have a few hours to wait. I have been thinking about a few things we can share to help each other scrape ways better.

A few years ago Forrest showed a device he made that looked like a wood plane to cut the square corner of a internal box way. Cleaver as heck as it is usually a real pain to knock out that corner. I saw something like it when I was in Germany at Huddlemair that the used to cut oil grooves in Turcite.

I was having camera issues so I didn't get a picture. It looked like a wood plane but instead of a flat blade it was a sharpened steel tube about 3/8" diameter, the flat part was about 1" wide, 2" long x 1" high. They drilled a diagonal hole through the middle so the tube would slide down it and it had thumb screw that tightened the tube into the hole. On the end opposite where the tube protruded out the bottom front. So on opposite end top they attached a file handle to push it along a steel rule. A lot like a wood plain, but it cut a groove.

Cleaver Idea, I usually just sharpen the flat tip of a pin punch and slide it along a steel rule or cut them in a mill with a round nosed 2 fluted end mill.

You could show us your King-Way Copy, home made hand scraper, home made power scraper, your blade sharpener, etc. Don't be shy as you may have a special tool that we can document for the future generations. Rich
 
Haven't built it yet but just have drawings of a reverse engineered large master square shown in a photo in one of Moore's books. It's clearly a shop-built square of the T-square design with a cast iron beam and probably tool steel blade. The Moore photos are discussing "self proving" a square and the one in the photo can be adjusted if necessary.

There have been good photos from time to time of shop built scrapers and King-Way clones but rarely of some other useful tools of the trade.

Moore 2.jpg
 
Haven't built it yet but just have drawings of a reverse engineered large master square shown in a photo in one of Moore's books. It's clearly a shop-built square of the T-square design with a cast iron beam and probably tool steel blade. The Moore photos are discussing "self proving" a square and the one in the photo can be adjusted if necessary.

There have been good photos from time to time of shop built scrapers and King-Way clones but rarely of some other useful tools of the trade.

I have seen the same one and wondered about making one....love to see you do it and share with us.

Charles
 
Here is my scraping stand, there is a threaded acme rod out of a scrapped milling machinine in the centre that allows it to go up and down. The top surface has T slots in it. The side also is drilled and tapped so you can bolt things to the side. That is how I hold the straight edges to scrape.

It is OK but while it looks heavy duty, it can get a wobble up in heavy scraping. So it is not heavy enough.

Better then nothing though

scraping stand.jpg
 
I have showed this simple oil groove cutter to my students and it works nice.

It's a 3/8" round stock and the front edge was ground flat and sharp. Note I have a BIAX 1/2 moon bladein my handscraper. It works great on Rulon and Turcite compared to a regular scraper blade. Rich

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I don't have a picture of my gadget at the moment, however I don't believe I need one as its quite a common tool re-adapted to scraping. For quite some time now I've been using the old stanley no. 5 and 6 (long boys) jack planes for roughing my turcite in close prior to scraping. I work on some larger machinery and often times I spend 10-20 scraping cycles after glue up just getting the little bumps and imperfections down to ground level so to speak. The jack plane only cuts as deeply as you set it and they only remove high spots, as soon as it's cutting the whole surface I switch to scraping. I have a genuine stanley no. 5 bedrock (non-corrugated sole) which I scraped in for this purpose. I use the standard wood blade with the corners slightly rounded. Works well.
Chris German
 
Not sure if this counts...

Just finished up my lapping machine out of stuff/material I found lying around in the shop.

Corey

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Not sure if this counts...

Just finished up my lapping machine out of stuff/material I found lying around in the shop.

Corey

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Nice except that, IMO, you've got the tilt going the wrong way. I think it's better to grind/lap from the outside toward the centre not the reverse. Little micro-tearouts on the edge seem a lot less common doing it that way.

That's been my experience using machtool's setup anyway, and it's how I'm going to build mine now my cheap Chinese diamond lapping disks have arrived.

PDW
 
I have showed this simple oil groove cutter to my students and it works nice.

It's a 3/8" round stock and the front edge was ground flat and sharp. Note I have a BIAX 1/2 moon bladein my handscraper. It works great on Rulon and Turcite compared to a regular scraper blade. Rich

Do you reckon it'll work on cast iron if made from hardened drill rod or HSS? It looks a lot neater than freehand with a die grinder and a burr.
 
I use a die grinder with a football burr on iron (American football, ha ha. Some say Christmas tree burr too as they look like that)) I also have my table tilted up on the back side like PDW said, I like to see the blade being ground and also use coolant and when the angle is right the coolant rubs off on top of the blade. I agree with PDW too about the small bits of carbide will chip off and cause the blade to chip and you get small scratches in the scrape marks.

Mark I had an old timer machinist tell me a few years ago he used to see rebuilders use a thin chisel to cut in oil grooves. I have never tried it but have seen some rough bottoms in oil grooves in older cast ways, that probably were chiseled in. Thanks for sharing everyone. Keep it up. :-) Rich
 
Thanks for the tips Rich and PDW, I was wondering for a little while if it was "cutting" towards or away from the cutting edge that was better. Thanks for clearing that up! I can get about +/- 30* on the table so I should be covered for everything.

Corey
 
Bridge for leveling and using wire mic. Mattison had 2 separate devises for this. I do it now in one set-up.

Then I just got a new Dotco Trimmer attachment. I was $$$ but I figured the cost of me to make one would be the same. They did quote me a air tool but it was stupid $$$ so we just modified the housing to accept a standard 12K Ingersoll Rand air tool. I will use a radiused carbide end mill in it. This is used for cutting oil grooves.
 

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I use a die grinder with a football burr on iron (American football, ha ha. Some say Christmas tree burr too as they look like that)) I also have my table tilted up on the back side like PDW said, I like to see the blade being ground and also use coolant and when the angle is right the coolant rubs off on top of the blade. I agree with PDW too about the small bits of carbide will chip off and cause the blade to chip and you get small scratches in the scrape marks.

Mark I had an old timer machinist tell me a few years ago he used to see rebuilders use a thin chisel to cut in oil grooves. I have never tried it but have seen some rough bottoms in oil grooves in older cast ways, that probably were chiseled in. Thanks for sharing everyone. Keep it up. :-) Rich

We used chisels made out of old round files to cut the oil grooves in cast iron ways. Yeah, I know files are brittle and you shouldn't hit files with a hammer but they make great little chisels.

Mark out the lines with a felt tip pen, chisel out the grooves, then go over them with little " Dotco " pencil grinder and a small solid carbide bullet shaped burr.

It was a boring job but somebody had to do it.

Always wear safety glasses and a dust mask.

Regards Tyrone.
 
Can't show the photo, but I saw a video where a guy was using a shop made level, it looked like a "T" with equidistant top and vertical legs, and being milled from solid aluminum it was inset with master precision vials. So, he could lay it on a flat surface and tell instantly whether or not that surface was perpendicular to the center of the earth's mass, both directions. I have an old Starrett "L" shaped level on the same principle but not using precision vials. I like the "T" shape better as it is symmetric.

If one were to make such a level perhaps tool steel (A2 perhaps) be better material than aluminum. Is there a source for high sensitivity vials beside breaking up master levels?

Edit; like this, but divided into tenths inch per 10" distances.
https://www.leveldevelopments.com/products/instrument-levels/2-axis-levels/
The Starrett is configured as in this little cast iron one;
https://www.leveldevelopments.com/p...vels/lt800-4-precision-two-axis-level-0-4mmm/
 
Is there a source for high sensitivity vials beside breaking up master levels?
Several places, but you've already found Level Developments. I've toyed with the idea of importing a couple of these (2 arcsec) or these (4 arcsec) from England. They'd be significantly cheaper in even modest quantity, and the trans-Atlantic shipping could be shared. Let me know if you want to go in on an order. The 4 arcsec sensitivity would be fine for my purposes.

Assuming I've done the conversions properly,
0.1 mm/m ~ .0012 "/ft ~ 20.6 arc seconds
0.05 mm/m ~ .0006 "/ft ~ 10.3 arc seconds
0.025 mm/m ~ .0003 "/ft ~ 5.2 arc seconds
0.02 mm/m ~ .00024 "/ft ~ 4.1 arc seconds
0.01 mm/m ~ .00012 "/ft ~ 2.1 arc seconds

The current Starrett 199Z spec is 0.05 mm/m or 10 arc seconds, which is half as sensitive as the KingWay. (.0006 vs .0003 "/ft)
 
I hope I have the picture of the T sled King-Way style..we made for the Big CNC Bridge mill I helped Precision Machine Tool in WI last year. They used 2 Starrett 198 Levels.
Also found the magnetic Cylindrical square in box I use to square up angle blocks and a cool student, checking taper gib straightness set up in the Portland class we had at Columbia Steel & Forge. Also Jorgensen 2 screw wood clamps I use to hold everything when scraping.
Also the Canode yellow highlighter I use when blind and regular scraping.

Thanks Stu on the arc second conversion.

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Just for one data point. I've gotten level vials from W.A. Moyer and found them friendly, helpful and knowledgeable. They mentioned having supplied vials for King-Way at the requested 8 arc seconds sensitivity. If they were good enough for the King-Way I guess they're good enough for me. Ones I bought were slightly less sensitive but they were readily on hand.
 








 
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