Thread: Digital calipers - protection class (IP)

I've noticed that the tendency here for many companies is that digital calipers with protection class IP67 are becoming more and more popular even although they are generally more expensive.

A standard digital caliper without an IP class indicated can be sensitive to moisture although this is not the problem it once was.

When a digital caliper is marked with IP57 it is splash proof. When marked with IP67 then it is coolant proof.

My question is - what is the trend in the USA (and elsewhere) and if there is in fact a trend?

This link gives more information on IP
http://www2.mitutoyo.de/fileadmin/us...on_Classes.pdf

If any should wonder why this isn't posted in the Metrology sub forum then it's because I can probably get better responses from those that use digital calipers daily under all conditions.

Gordon

Look how much name brand calipers have dropped in price in the last 10 years. It used to be a pretty rare sight to see one of those on the floor.

Now you see apprentices buying them.

When it's time to replace my current caliper caliper(mitutoyo digimatic absolute) i will a coolant proof one of the same model even though the price is 2.5 times higher because it's a everyday thing to get it drenched in coolant and having to dry it out before measuring anything again, especially since my mill is not enclosed so just having it on the workbench sometimes is enough to spray it with coolant.
The standard one without ip classing is made not to be destroyed by getting splashed with coolant however it's a major annoyance all the time. (Europe here)

Originally Posted by anonimasu

When it's time to replace my current caliper caliper(mitutoyo digimatic absolute) i will a coolant proof one of the same model even though the price is 2.5 times higher because it's a everyday thing to get it drenched in coolant and having to dry it out before measuring anything again, especially since my mill is not enclosed so just having it on the workbench sometimes is enough to spray it with coolant.
The standard one without ip classing is made not to be destroyed by getting splashed with coolant however it's a major annoyance all the time. (Europe here)

Thanks for that input. If you're paying 2½ times as much for the IP67 than for the one without then I suggest you look for another dealer It costs more but it shouldn't cost twice as much.

A Sylvac IP67 cost less than Mitutoyo IP67 and although Mitutoyo are excellent I prefer the Sylvac electronics.

I've a question for you Do you find the sliding jaw on a Mitutoyo requires just a bit more force to move than other digital calipers?

Gordon

I dont really have a good comparation except for cheap china ones, the mt is getting a bit worn from everyday use so it's going to be retired soon when it starts to differ too much from the micrometer but i seem to remember that in the beginning it was pretty heavy sliding, now it's getting a bit more loose.(I've adjusted it since it seems that something is wearing making measurements a bit heavy to repeat at best).
(pretty much with constant daily use for 2 years)

Originally Posted by anonimasu

I dont really have a good comparation except for cheap china ones, the mt is getting a bit worn from everyday use so it's going to be retired soon when it starts to differ too much from the micrometer but i seem to remember that in the beginning it was pretty heavy sliding, now it's getting a bit more loose.(I've adjusted it since it seems that something is wearing making measurements a bit heavy to repeat at best).
(pretty much with constant daily use for 2 years)

I've found that if you once a fortnight or so, put a mere spot of thin oil on a rag and rub it on the top and bottom of a caliper beam, wipe it off, it's like having a new caliper again. To those that have never tried this I think you'll be pleasantly surprised

It's not written anywhere but in my opinion a 6" digital caliper should never need more than max 2N to move the sliding jaw. For those not sure how much 2N is then the ratchet on a micrometer normally gives 5 - 10N.

Gordon

Having my best dial calipers stop working after a minor contact with lathe coolant I can see a good reason to look into this protection class for the next pair I purchase.

Thankfully 2 days in the sun followed by a bit of rubbing alcohol restored my set back to full functionality (for now).

Though I don't know how they are now, I had a friend lose a Brown & Sharpe/Tesa IP-67 caliper. A month later he found it in the bottom of a full EDM dielelecric fluid tank. He fished it out it worked like a charm. That's impressive.
As for smoothing the movement, some good digital calipers have metal edges on the beam. That is wear the gibs ride and is the area that needs to be wiped down first and if still not right then lightly oiled. Remember, oil can attarct dirt and exacerbate the problem.

I've been using digital calipers, as well as the old style manual calipers, for several years. I have a set of digital Tesas currently, and while they are fine for general work, you do have to be careful about coolant. They will flat loose their mind if you get a splash of coolant on the scale. But, as has been noted here, a good cleaning with something to dry them out and they're good as new. I'll have to keep that IP data in mind when these give up the ghost.
As for the force needed to operate calipers, among the best I've ever used was a set of Brown and Sharpe 6" manual. Smooth as glass. You noticed it soon as you opened them the first time. All calipers should be so smooth.
The biggest drawback I see with digital calipers is that tendency to react badly to moisture. The IP67 designation will do much to alleviate that problem. Now, if can just avoid fumble fingering them into the chip bin or across the shop, I should be happier than ever. As if I was ever happy.

Originally Posted by Peddler

Remember, oil can attarct dirt and exacerbate the problem.

And that's why in my post I wrote that the oil should be wiped off again. It need only be applied (with a cloth) to the top and bottom of the caliper beam.

Originally Posted by gorrilla

Now, if can just avoid fumble fingering them into the chip bin or across the shop, I should be happier than ever. As if I was ever happy.

I've seen a digital caliper specially made for folks with 10 thumbs It has a protective frame around it but is made in a way that doesn't hamper measurement. I haven't a clue how much it costs.

Cheer up - tomorrow could be worse

Always Look On The Bright Side of Life - Life Of Brian (Monty Python) Lyrics - YouTube

We have a 12" Mitutoyo IP67 at every machine.

Originally Posted by kuraki556

We have a 12" Mitutoyo IP67 at every machine.

Sounds like a good place to be

Originally Posted by Gordon B. Clarke

I've seen a digital caliper specially made for folks with 10 thumbs It has a protective frame around it but is a way that doesn't hamper measurement in any way.

Another proven remedy for dropped calipers is to mount a lanyard on them that, if dropped, makes the caliper land at about crotch height. After installing the lanyards and making their use mandatory the operators amazingly only dropped their calipers once! Go figure!

Originally Posted by Peddler

Another proven remedy for dropped calipers is to mount a lanyard on them that, if dropped, makes the caliper land at about crotch height. After installing the lanyards and making their use mandatory the operators amazingly only dropped their calipers once! Go figure!

And just how many of them walk with a limp? "Limp" can be understood in more than one way
Hmmmm no female operators?

I own several digital calipers and have now for many years. I have gravitated to only Mitutoyo IP67 calipers. Other brands may also be OK, but not in my experience. The Mitutoyo absolute is ultra reliable, robust, accurate and very economical in battery consumption. Chinese junk eat batteries.

[QUOTE=steve-l;1840570]I own several digital calipers and have now for many years. I have gravitated to only Mitutoyo IP67 calipers. Other brands may also be OK, but not in my experience. The Mitutoyo absolute is ultra reliable, robust, accurate and very economical in battery consumption. QUOTE]

Not in your experience? What is your experience with other brands? Just for the record I like Mitutoyo too but I know for a fact that they aren't infallible.

A reason that some calipers "eat" batteries is the fact that, to keep prices as low as possible, they are often supplied with the cheaper LR44 battery instead of a SR44 which is better and gives a longer lifespan. Having said that then it is true that some calipers (the cheap ones) do tend to go through batteries faster than the more expensive ones. The price difference betwen cheap calipers and the more expensive ones can buy many batteries

I have several brands of digital calipers that I use, including Mitutoyo, and Mitutoyo isn't my favourite. I suppose it's due to the same reason that not all drive around in the same car brand.

Gordon

When my Mitutoyo absolute calipers (not Ip67) get doused in coolant which happens almost weekly, I just spray them down with alcohol, and hit them with an air blast. Been doing this for close to 4 years now (since I've been running a CNC) and they work right as rain again. Calipers are 6 years old, and work like they day they were bought.

Re moving jaw force, mine slide with very little effort, and there's no perceptible play in the moving jaw to accommodate that. I bought another (used) one at a sale a couple months ago, and I've tried every which way to get those to work and feel like my primary ones to no avail. I just can't get them to slide as nice and free, without loosening them to the point that I get movement in the sliding jaw. I'll keep dicking around with them here and there, but seeing as I bought them for home use (to replace my cheap Chinese battery eaters) I'm in no hurry. When tight they measure and repeat as well as my good ones, but I just don't like that extra effort required to close the jaw. Too much lost feeling in the measurement.

I'd love to have an ip67 rated Caliper, but I' just really havn't found the absolute need for one yet. If I stumble across the right deal I'd pick one up though. But for now, I just try and keep mine out of the spray, but if (and when) it happens, the alcohol bath, and air blast works a charm.

Mitutoyo IP67 here works great, they replaced a IP pair that with a drop or 2 of collant on them could not measure at all. As far as movement I use the Gordon method.

Originally Posted by racen857

Mitutoyo IP67 here works great, they replaced a IP pair that with a drop or 2 of collant on them could not measure at all. As far as movement I use the Gordon method.

Mitutoyo. Quality and accuracy - top notch. You get to pay for that though

Why Mitutyo isn't my favourite as far as calipers are concerned is the sliding jaw feels harder to slide than other makes plus I prefer Sylvac electronics to Mitutoyo's. Ah well, to each his own

Having said that I can understand why Mitutoyo is popular. It is quality.

Gordon