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Any tricks for smoking continental engine in forklift? Also clutch adjust on Clark

huleo

Hot Rolled
Joined
Feb 12, 2014
Location
UT
Have a good running Clark forklift that is pretty new to us with a Continental straight 6. No real power issues, missing, etc, other than a slight stutter at idle.

However, engine smokes. Not visible until you put your foot in it, but it is there. If you are hammering on it, it will fog up a building, defeating the purpose of propane. Curious if you guys have found any quick fixes for this such as oil viscosity, cleaners, etc? I don't know the actual original hours on fork as the gauge was replaced. Fork was used near daily but doubt it was run too hard/long. Surprised to see smoke on that engine.


Also, someone mentioned the brakes might need work. I determined the brakes are not as much an issue as the clutch pedal not disengaging the drive as it should so people are pushing the clutch expecting it to keep the machine from moving. This is hurting the brakes and a safety concern. Any help with how these clutch systems work? Is this just a simple rod adjustment?
 
No quick fix to oil burning, it's time for a rebuild. It's kind of surprising with it being propane, those things seem to run forever without wearing out.

When you say "cultch" I assume you are talking about a torque converter trans and not a manual trans. If that's the case, the brakes should hold the lift at idle with the clutch engaged.

If it is a old manual trans, there should be a adjustment rod to adjust.
 
Yes, this is a torque converter model but there are two pedals and the left one should completely disengage the drive if pushed far enough. The brakes will hold the machine.
 
I think the one pedal is just an unloader valve for the torque converter. Then there is an inching valve plumbed in with the brake pedal. I disabled the inching valve on mine. Its only use is so you can hold the brake and mash the gas pedal to raise the forks. If you disable it you have to be in neutral to do that. I prefer the control you get with the converter working all the time.

Engine probably needs rings or valve guides. Those are about as simple of a motor as you can get.
 
It's hard to find information on most forklifts; both the manufacturers and dealers tend to hoard info. Some places will sell manuals while some don't; they want you to have to take your machine to them for repairs.

Continental Engines were bought by Wisconsin a number of years ago. Prior to that you could get Continental manuals for nothing (free download). Wisconsin in the US doesn't even mention manuals on their site but Wisconsin Motors Canada does. They do charge for them, however...

http://www.wisconsinmotorscanada.ca/yc.html

What model engine do you have? I have a couple manuals for the earlier L-head series engines that I downloaded while they were still available. Send me a PM with your email address and I can send them to you if that's what you have...
 
If the inlet valve guide oil seals aren't shagged.

Verify by seeing if it smokes on full load or when applying load after idling, assuming it's spark ignition.

This is a flat head engine. No seals on the guides. No rocker arms = no sideload on valve stems, ancient design, valve guides last forever. I worked on lots of them in the70's
 
Also make sure the bores aren't ovaled or severally worn. If they are, rings alone won't fix anything. If bores are okay flex hone a cross hatch pattern back in before reassembly.

Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk
 
Also make sure the bores aren't ovaled or severally worn. If they are, rings alone won't fix anything. If bores are okay flex hone a cross hatch pattern back in before reassembly.

Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk

I overhauled a continental 6 out of a Gardener Denver air compressor, running for years, jackhammers throwing dust and grit in the air. No oil in the oil bath type air filter. The engine was on my stand, bottom up. I removed the first rod cap, the piston and rod dropped right out of the cyl. with no drag what so ever! The rings were so worn that the ends were sharp, not flat. It really did not run bad, a bit down on power and smokey but it ran fine. That thing probably had about .020 clearance on about a 3.5 dia piston.
 
As long as she cranks and does not foul a plug and STOPS when you stomp on the right pedal...run that bitch.

There is no trick to s a smoking engine that will not harm it farther. Worn oil rings and valve seals are just that worn.
Any additives or "tricks" is just snake oil. Live with it or do a proper overhaul.
I vote as long as plugs don't foul and she stops when needed, use her.
 
I overhauled a continental 6 out of a Gardener Denver air compressor, running for years, jackhammers throwing dust and grit in the air. No oil in the oil bath type air filter. The engine was on my stand, bottom up. I removed the first rod cap, the piston and rod dropped right out of the cyl. with no drag what so ever! The rings were so worn that the ends were sharp, not flat. It really did not run bad, a bit down on power and smokey but it ran fine. That thing probably had about .020 clearance on about a 3.5 dia piston.
What condition were the bore sleeves in? If it survived that it's probably a pretty robust engine.

Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk
 
What condition were the bore sleeves in? If it survived that it's probably a pretty robust engine.

Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk

I did this engine about 40 years ago. I am sure I bored it for over size pistons. I do know where this compressor is, it is still in use! As I remember it had taps for 3 or 4 jackhammers. 3/4" or so with a ball valve. You could open all the taps wide and the revs would pick up a bit and it would hold 120 psi.
 
If you do use the lift every day, and depend on it, it is time to spend some money on it. Find a reputable Clark dealer, or an independent shop, and let them take it in and overhaul the engine and adjust the control linkages. If this seems to be excessive, check the price of a new lift that will do your job. Regards, Clark
 
Think I had that motor in an old Towmotor. Never smoked at all after 12 years. Somebody checked the oil and found almost none and filled it up to the mark. Fogged the shop. Had to scrap the old beast.
 
Think I had that motor in an old Towmotor. Never smoked at all after 12 years. Somebody checked the oil and found almost none and filled it up to the mark. Fogged the shop. Had to scrap the old beast.

Why not just drain the oil?

I have a dodge truck like that. Burns oil quick down to 2 quarts then stops. 35K miles on it with only 2 quarts in the 360 for most of that. Plenty of towing and bricked in 3rd going up hills with 15K in tow. I add oil when the pressure drops to nothing when I hit the brakes.
 
Do common checks.

What does oil look like?

Change it if old and calibrate your stick.

Meaning verify all oil out and verify jow much it needs and put in one quart less then start it and let it idle and then shut off and let it rest abit.

Check dipstick and verify it is at "add" mark.

Add last quart and repeat then mark full on stick.

If too much oil then higher rpm splashes more oil on cylinder walls than rings can wipe.

We suggest oil formulated for old engines as it does work well in our old jeep.

Next do compression test and "read the plugs" to see what they tell you, post good photos if needed.

Check pcv if it has one.

Verify timing and maybe consider a good tune up as poor ign system can cause poor combustion under load and smoke as well as stinky exhaust.
Check carb as it may be not working proper but if on lpg low possibility there.

These are some suggestions for starters.

Report back what you find and we can give more follow up.

You also may pull head and look at cylinders too.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk
 
Why not just drain the oil?

I have a dodge truck like that. Burns oil quick down to 2 quarts then stops. 35K miles on it with only 2 quarts in the 360 for most of that. Plenty of towing and bricked in 3rd going up hills with 15K in tow. I add oil when the pressure drops to nothing when I hit the brakes.

That lift cost me almost nothing. Changing the oil was simple. Rotate the dipstick 5 times. That would wrap the "oil" tight around the end and you could pull it out in one piece. At 10 years I bought a new 6000# CAT and that was the undoing of the Towmotor. The Towmotor brakes were gone many years ago, but you could brake by using the see-saw pedal that made the lift go forward or reverse. Since the new CAT had working brakes the operator forgot that and took out the bottom half of an exterior overhead door. In winter time.
 








 
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