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Thread: Clark C60 forklift won't move
03-19-2017, 11:10 AM #41
I guess for me, I didn't have to pay for this one. My dad had it and I needed to use it so I pulled it out of a shed where it sat for 15 years. I had to replace fuel system components and it runs great now. But now I have an axle issue. I'm not disagreeing about it being one of the crappiest. But, had I spent $1500 to buy it, I definitely wouldn't be a happy camper..
03-19-2017, 11:12 AM #42
If you buy a new Clark, it'll be a Korean made POS with nanny electronics. I've been to the Hyster Yale factory in Mexico. They get final assembly here, but the blood and guts is south of the border. I'll stick with the old stuff.
Parts for these Clarks are cheap. They made bajillions of them. The dealer may have aftermarket parts too, I know mine does.
03-19-2017, 07:03 PM #43
Have to agree without a drive gear on the one wheel I don't see how it moved if it has an open differential . That being said if there was something keeping the axle shaft from spinning then it would drive the one wheel that had the wheel drive gear . No matter what you will need another one to get it working correctly. Put the lift in gear and spin one axle shaft does the shaft on the other side spin ? if not there is a problem in the spider gears inside the differential if so get a new gear and reassemble. Bill
03-19-2017, 10:04 PM #44
Somebody somewhere broke the gear on the one side. Too cheap to fix it right, they just welded up the spiders, making only one side pull all the time. The weld job finally broke, leaving the lift dead in the water.
I've seen stranger things. It's funny how people will sometimes go to more work "Jerry-rigging" something than it would have taken just to fix it right.
Other than that, I'm with you. There is no way possible for that forklift to move with that gear missing and a open differential.
03-20-2017, 07:42 AM #45
Has anyone had to fix a spider gear on the inside of the final drive housing? I am getting close to taking the cover off and seeing the inside of it. I just don't think it will provide the necessary clearance to fix the machine, but I may be wrong too. I got to looking at the picture of this diagram, and the gears I will be taking out look like they may fit out of the hole but there won't be much room to navigate. I just really hope I don't have to take the mast and front end apart, that will add a few weeks to the repair...
03-20-2017, 05:01 PM #46
You might as well pull that cover and take a look. If something is screwed up in there, you'll have to fix it before the lift is going again. I doubt you can replace spider gears through a small inspection cover and if they are screwed up, you'll have to remove everything anyway to clean out the metal in the bottom of the housing. You may could use a magnet to clean but that would also be difficult through a small hole.
03-20-2017, 06:50 PM #47
Sounds like welds on the spider gears broke. Someone probably poked a welding rod through the assembled carrier and goobered it up to make it go. That works for a limited amount of time (maybe 30 years in your case?). To have success, you have to weld the gear the axle splines go into to the carrier. The teeth need to be cut off (otherwise they are stress risers and will crack), everything preheated and the weld needs to be done with low hydrogen rod for alloy steel (I used 8018 with success). I had a beater 73 Bronco when I was a teenager. Not much money was spent on the vehicle, but it went where it was pointed.
I bet you find heavy carnage in the diff carrier and you will have to make a choice between spending way more time and money than it's worth or cludging it together again or scrapping it.
If by some chance the diff is a common pickup or medium duty application you might get it done right on the cheap, but my bet is it's not.
03-20-2017, 06:55 PM #48
It's not even a transmission. It's really just a differential and forward/reverse with a torque converter.
A 2 wheel drive forklift is generally pretty helpless. A 1 wheel drive lift would be like a beached whale.
03-20-2017, 07:14 PM #49
I bet you find some sort of cob-job inside (either welds, or other) preventing
the spiders from turning.....up until "the bump".
If that's the case, your simplest move is more weld/better weld, re-assemble, try to forget
the cringe factor, and drive on .....for another 30 years.
Garwood liked this post
03-25-2017, 09:59 PM #50
Little update... I was able to get the brakes pulled off today and I got the differential plate off so I could actually see inside of the differential. The only problem was I couldn't see anything. As I suspected, the hole was too small to work anyway.. so now I get the AWESOME task of splitting this fork. I was telling my brother today, either I'll take it apart, find what's broke, and fix it or take it apart, don't see what's wrong with it and carefully place the parts on a trailer to be scrapped..
I can't believe I am in the fork this deep and its about to get a hell of a lot worse. I'm just terrified that I will split it and NOT find anything wrong. I plan to pull the mast off and then take the front off separately. Has anyone ever split the front end off of a forklift before.