Gooseneck trailer anti theft locks, which is best ? - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Ive got one like the Blaylock TL-50 on mine. Never had a problem other than I lost the keys for the lock and had to cut it off. They also make one for the downtube to prevent it being removed. It's been on the trailer so long I;ve got no clue where the keys are for it. I'll have to cut the lock on that one too when I go move the trailer this summer.

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  3. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Milacron View Post
    Here "caravans" typically use "5th wheel" arrangements similar to semi trucks. They are unlikely to have anything for gooseneck trailers.
    Airstream and at least one other US manufacturer supply caravans with a hitch (non US use perhaps). I looked on Google and there are a fair tidy few available, some which just go into hitch and lock, not using a padlock. May well be worth a look.

  4. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by camscan View Post
    Airstream and at least one other US manufacturer supply caravans with a hitch (non US use perhaps). I looked on Google and there are a fair tidy few available, some which just go into hitch and lock, not using a padlock. May well be worth a look.
    Yes but a Reese hitch tag along like an Airstream might use is different from a gooseneck, which needs a different locking system in general.

  5. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by cvairwerks View Post
    Ive got one like the Blaylock TL-50 on mine. Never had a problem other than I lost the keys for the lock and had to cut it off. They also make one for the downtube to prevent it being removed. It's been on the trailer so long I;ve got no clue where the keys are for it. I'll have to cut the lock on that one too when I go move the trailer this summer.
    I've got the same one on my trailer, plus I have the lock over the bolts holding the hitch. I use the masterlock Pro series padlocks with an iron shackle guard on each. I made a new pin out of hardened 4140 so it can't be hacksawed too easially, but the TL50 is cast aluminum. One day I may rebuild out of SS plate with guard plates for pin

  6. #25
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    I recall one setup I saw at a welding & fab shop in GA. It was a post, say 6" dia and about 10' tall embedded in concrete. The neck of the trailer was entrapped by the post (IOW "a tree growing up thru it" ). Apparently they used the forklift to move it on and off. I would get a little worried about lifting something that large, that high, regularly. Probably would add fork pockets if it was a chosen solution.

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  8. #26
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    How are those locks that wedge between the tires, are they easy to remove? I've never known anyone to use one.

    Or how about a police 'boot'? They appear hard to defeat.

  9. #27
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    The boston boots look easy to cut, and one time I needed to cut one off with a torch, I had not problems doing so. I think they are designed to resist freezing, hammer, chosels, prybars, etc but not a torch.

    I've had good luck running a chain through the openings on the wheel (PEWAG square link security chain form mcMaster), but not on my gooseneck where the brakedrums doesn't leave any clearance.

    In my mind, if it won't stand up to a 36" crowbar, torch, or sawsall (with some time limit), it's of marginal value. the PEWAG chain is the bomb, torch and bolt cutter resistant, it has to be cut with an abrasive wheel. And it fills the opening of a Masterlock pro series or S&G padlock, so there is no access to the lock shackle.

    Professional security engineers also like large (1/2"+) stainless aircraft cable, preferabally braided, or 1/2" Gr70 chain. with the lock secured in a pipe.

    Something else that might work is using a McGuard bolt head and key on the jack, either to lock it in place, or to use the handle.

  10. #28
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    Good there is much interest in this subject.
    Almost nothing will stop the dedicated professional crook. Like cracking a bank safe the top guys can do even that.
    I think of trailer locks as how much the crook wants to devote to the task of theft, needing nothing, needing an end wrench, hammer, lock pick hack saw, a cutting torch.
    My buddy’s boss, the owner of a top tool shop (some of you might recognize the name) saw a backhoe tractor left unattached..He hooked up his truck and the poor owner lost his machine..Theft boss is now dead but the tractor likely still in Tennessee.
    My applied patent is for a receiver hitch locking device… I’m sending the prototype off to the die shop hopefully today and we will start thinking about manufacture…I have ideas about Gooseneck also but cant tell until I decide where I’m going with that. Likely will design such a device when/if a few bucks start coming in from the first.
    Yes I will make a web site and provide a link when/ if it hits market.

  11. #29
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    I do not know if this would help or not but for those bolt on pieces use square head bolts or do like the fire department and use bolt heads with five sides. unlikely the thieves will have a five point socket.
    When I installed a security door at a house we rented I used square drive screws on the theory no thief would have one of those screwdrivers.
    Bill D.

  12. #30
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    Mine have the adjustable hitches on them. I pull the gooseneck hitch off them, and my landing gear shaft is inside the locked chain/strap box, so they have to put a hitch in that fits, bust open the box, get something to attach to the landing gear shaft, after they get through the locked gate. There going to have to work really hard to steal my trailers.

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

  13. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shadon View Post
    4) last line of defense, motion detecting cellular alarm, it is progrmmed to call my cell phone and enter 777777 every 5 minutes when the trailer is in motion (only when armed)
    Got a link for this? Is it a one-and-done cost or a monthly subscription cost?

  14. #32
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    You always have to think the way a crook is... If there are 5 anti-theft it's on a trailer, then that means there is value to it. If it isn't locked then there probably isn't things worth stealing.

    People around my area have changed out a lot of 2 5/16" balls to 3" balls. That keeps a lot of people away from just that.

    If I had a trailer with high value items in it, I wouldn't increase the security from the outside, I would make a second door that would be more secure that was on the inside. I would also make the tounge/ball unboltable so they can't steal it at all.

    Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk


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