Hyster h60c

Ok having trouble getting this old beast moved. Rollback around my area is scared.
The lift is 6000lb capacity and the machine weight is 9500-10000 from what I've found online.

So if I remove the counterweight how much weight would that roughly remove. The company has another lift I could use to remove.

Your basic medium duty rolldeck tow truck should max out at 14K on the deck. That's not necessarily legal, but it's what they will haul. I moved a 10K VMC using a tow companies FL70 with a Jerr-Dan bed. No sweat.

Your next option is anyone with a Landoll trailer. My experience is cost is the same using Landoll or rolldeck.

Must not be a very big rollback. Find you a tandem one with a real truck in the front.

The one I use handled this 10ton boat anchor without any hesitation.
621691_zpsmtqgizra.jpg Photo by mebunting | Photobucket

I'd try to figure out some other way to move it than taking the counterweight off. Too much work for what should be a very easy machine to move.

As far as your counterweight question, I'd guess 5,000 lbs or so but that's a WAG.

Wot they've said. Your guy is set up to do passenger cars & pickup trucks.

Find a different rigger who HAS the needfuls.

That's only a 'medium' - if even that - as FL's go.

A hauler who does larger FL, over the road tractors, mining, ag, or construction equipment will handle it with ease - no need of taking it apart atall.

Bill

I moved a H60 on a 10K tandem axle trailer no problem, over 240 miles.

Steve

6000 pound truck on pneumatic tires should not be a problem.
Find a different roll-back.

alskdjfhg said:

Must not be a very big rollback. Find you a tandem one with a real truck in the front.

The one I use handled this 10ton boat anchor without any hesitation.
621691_zpsmtqgizra.jpg Photo by mebunting | Photobucket

I'd try to figure out some other way to move it than taking the counterweight off. Too much work for what should be a very easy machine to move.

As far as your counterweight question, I'd guess 5,000 lbs or so but that's a WAG.

Click to expand...

So, you drug it up out of the fence row, then set it off to the side of the lot, then later picked it back up to move indoors?

Or what?




Bama:

Can you re-install the c-weight on the other end?

The weight on my H80 is substantial. I don't know for sure. I picked it with a 3t bridge.
I bet yours will go 2500# tho.

Would that mean that you would need the same truck to make a second trip to fetch the weight?



----------------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox

In my limited forklift experience counterweights come off easy if you can lift them. Its loosening the bolt that secures the counterweight that can cause problems. I would estimate the counterweight to be in the 2500 to 4000# range but that depends on the weight range of that frame size forklift.

Googling images for h60c forklifts showed all pneumatic tired lifts. If yours is pneumatic tired, expect the weight to be in the 12,000# range. Even many warehouse tired lifts weigh more than 150% of lifting capacity.

gbent said:

In my limited forklift experience counterweights come off easy if you can lift them. Its loosening the bolt that secures the counterweight that can cause problems. I would estimate the counterweight to be in the 2500 to 4000# range but that depends on the weight range of that frame size forklift.

Googling images for h60c forklifts showed all pneumatic tired lifts. If yours is pneumatic tired, expect the weight to be in the 12,000# range. Even many warehouse tired lifts weigh more than 150% of lifting capacity.

Click to expand...

My H80E is tagged at 13,500#


---------------------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox

Ox said:

So, you drug it up out of the fence row, then set it off to the side of the lot, then later picked it back up to move indoors?

Click to expand...

Not quite.

It was in the fence row next to a bunch of pumps. The owners wanted the machine out or it was going to get scraped so I got it for the removal.

The problem was that the idiots that ran the shop piled those pumps RIGHT up next to the machine, so the rollback had no access. And they were being very unelpful and did not move the pumps even though they easily could with their forklift.

So the only way to get the machine out was too rotate it about 60 degrees so the rollback had access to it. Also the machine was half on a concrete pad and half on dirt so we had to lay some dunnage down and make a track with steel plate in order for the winch to have a chance at pulling the machine on to the bed.

If weather and schedules play ball, I should have a shop to put it in soon. Papers were signed weeks ago, all that's left it to write checks.

Does the DRO work?

What app doo you have for it?
I trust that it is a roughing or drilling app eh?

Just guessing that fine bores are in this things past?



FWIW - G&L will set you up with a new one.

---------------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox

Ox said:

Does the DRO work?

What app doo you have for it?
I trust that it is a roughing or drilling app eh?

Just guessing that fine bores are in this things past?



FWIW - G&L will set you up with a new one.

---------------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox

Click to expand...

I doubt the DRO works. Who knows how long this thing has been outside before I got it, I really don't know if it'll ever run again TBH.

The spindle does turn and the gears shift, but it's going to be a John Oder level restoration to make it run again.

As far as an application, it does have the tailstock so would be great for line boing. The ways aren't too bad really, so may be able to do that with it. If it's too loose for that, it would still be the berry's for a lot of weldment/fab work.

I just couldn't turn it down with the built in boring/facing slide, rotary table and tailstock. If I can get it cleaned up it'll be a really sweet little rig.

And I'm sure G&L (or would it be Bourn and Koch?) could get me a new one, but seeing as I don't know if I'll ever find work for the junk one, if I can get it running, can't really justify a new one.

This same shop was surplussing some of the nicest heavy US iron I've ever seen. a 40x300 Monarch, two 4" G&L's and a 5" G&L plus other misc stuff. All this stuff was running jobs and looked factory new, ways were gorgeous.

I was negotiating getting the whole lot for scrap price, but the guy I was working though quit the shop. Looking back it's a good thing that deal fell though. Got enough on my plate without having to move 100 tons of machine tools without a place to put them and without Dad to help.

Hi Matt

So is that Micheal with AFH and would you use him again?

alskdjfhg said:

Must not be a very big rollback. Find you a tandem one with a real truck in the front.

The one I use handled this 10ton boat anchor without any hesitation.
621691_zpsmtqgizra.jpg Photo by mebunting | Photobucket

I'd try to figure out some other way to move it than taking the counterweight off. Too much work for what should be a very easy machine to move.

As far as your counterweight question, I'd guess 5,000 lbs or so but that's a WAG.

Click to expand...

johnoder said:

Hi Matt

So is that Micheal with AFH and would you use him again?

Click to expand...

Yup that's Micheal. He's actually using that picture in some of his advertising.

And yes I'd use him again in a heartbeat. As long as it's under 23,000lbs, he can move it. He's not a rigger, but he's pretty savvy. I like that he always askes me where I want to attach the winch line and where to place chains.

I've used him at least 4 times.

Just a WAG here but an H60 will probably lift 8000 lbs @ 2 feet of load center despite that not appearing on the nameplate. A Hyster has a "little extra" built into it. Lets just say 4 feet back you place another 2000 lbs. Without adding any other weight that would balance. I would estimate the counterweight like that. Another tactic would be to try to make rough measurements of the cubic volume of steel used and multiply by the 0.283 lbs/in^3.