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Jib crane powered rotation?

bsg

Titanium
Joined
Jan 17, 2003
Location
Imlay City, Michigan
I have a 1 ton jib crane with a 15' arm, I'm wondering if I need to power the arm to help with positioning, I have never had one in a shop before........I will be using the crane to lift fixtures on and off machines as well as lifting material and chucks on my lathe.
My question to anyone who has used a jib crane before, how hard is it to move the crane up close to the column?

I was looking at making a traction motor setup for the rotation, any drawbacks in my thinking?

Any help would be appreciated, total newb when it comes to cranes.

Kevin
 
You have to think about "sway" of the workload, as long as the pivot has good bearings you should be able to maneuver the load itself, while maintaining its stability in motion. Under a ton is not that much. If it's a new installation be damn sure the mast was anchored correctly.
 
You have to think about "sway" of the workload, as long as the pivot has good bearings you should be able to maneuver the load itself, while maintaining its stability in motion. Under a ton is not that much. If it's a new installation be damn sure the mast was anchored correctly.

I did the install myself, I need to grout the base and level the mast yet then install the arm. I installed it per the drawings and specs from the manufacturer, 6' x 6' x 4' concrete cube with rebar and 12 3/4 j bolts attached to a rebar frame, this was all done when my new floor was done.

My biggest concern is when I have a relatively light light load on the arm close to the jib, will it be difficult getting the arm to move? I guess I will have to try it and see what happens......

Kevin
 
It can be a PITA. But, that's a pretty small arm, so it should be manageable. I think power rotation might cause more problems than it solves. You'd have to make it rotate so slowly that the load would not swing violently when it's at the end of the arm. I know that several companies offer power rotation, but I'd skip it.
 
If the load is near the base, just move it out so you can get leverage. I think you are overthinking it. I worked at a shop that had several and we never had problems. Your mileage may vary.
 
What sort of bearing is there on lower pivot?- I have a couple that sort of size, one as old as the hills with a simple bronze thrust bearing, nudge it and round she goes, The newer one has a flashy angular contact ball race, the problem is not starting moving but stopping the thing if you swing at full stretch.I have to admit it does prefer to be in one place, I installed it so i'm sure it's upright....;)
Richard
 
Easiest solution is to hang a rope off the end of the jib to about six feet. You simply walk out to the rope and adjust the jib arm.
Moving a jib by pulling the load is frowned on because if anything lets go it ends up in your lap. Safety sheets tell you to push the load. One late night we noticed one of the fabricators was missing from his station. We ran over and he was on the ground. He had been swinging his jib and lost his footing and fell against the corner of a welding machine. I remember watching his bare back in spasms as the firemen attended. You should see the the ripple travel down his spine. He visited a couple of weeks after and said they had paralyzed him in the hospital to get his spine to stabilize. He never came back to work at our shop.

Also with big loads and stiff boom people do put their backs out trying to move a load close to the column. The push should be straight out and steady. No jerking and sideways pushes.
 
You can pull the electrical cable but make sure then it incorporates a steel cable that is connected to the hoist and pushbutton with some slack in the electrical wires
Do not pull the wires directly

Peter from holland
 
I have worked with jib cranes all my working career.

Some worked well with not much effort to move 300lbs or more.

Some would slam into something soon as you let go of the hoist.

All were better than using my back.
 
Fine work next to the pillar is a royal pita. Ask me in a few months if this gets easier or more difficult with power rotation.

Arrange your work so you are working more than 1/2 the way out on the boom.
 
Fix a tiller arm on the turret that normally hangs down when not in use. If you want to swing a load close-in, use the tiller to gain some leverage.
 
Easiest solution is to hang a rope off the end of the jib to about six feet. You simply walk out to the rope and adjust the jib arm.
Moving a jib by pulling the load is frowned on because if anything lets go it ends up in your lap. Safety sheets tell you to push the load. One late night we noticed one of the fabricators was missing from his station. We ran over and he was on the ground. He had been swinging his jib and lost his footing and fell against the corner of a welding machine. I remember watching his bare back in spasms as the firemen attended. You should see the the ripple travel down his spine. He visited a couple of weeks after and said they had paralyzed him in the hospital to get his spine to stabilize. He never came back to work at our shop.

Also with big loads and stiff boom people do put their backs out trying to move a load close to the column. The push should be straight out and steady. No jerking and sideways pushes.

Kind of defeats the purpose of having the crane in the first place, if I had to go through all that monkey motion to get something positioned I would just use my hilo!

I will just use the crane with no power rotation and see how it goes.......

Thanks for the suggestions.

Kevin
 
Here's a photo of my set up.

I am using motor and right angle gearbox to rotate my jib crane.
I use Square vfd to further slow the speed.
The drive tire came off of Big Joe motorized pallet jack.
This system has served me well for 15 years.

 
Here's a photo of my set up.

I am using motor and right angle gearbox to rotate my jib crane.
I use Square vfd to further slow the speed.
The drive tire came off of Big Joe motorized pallet jack.
This system has served me well for 15 years.


What is the final RPM of your setup, and how much horsepower?
I have seen any where from 1/2 to 1 RPM on the ones available for retrofit......

I need to get my calculator out and do some figuring.

Thanks for posting pictures.

Kevin
 
Kevin, 1.333-RPM
1.0 HP motor.
This set up was a collection of parts that were used on drum filters. I am getting ready to install another one. The controls for this one will be wireless. A lot has changed in 15 years.
:)
 
Kevin, 1.333-RPM
1.0 HP motor.
This set up was a collection of parts that were used on drum filters. I am getting ready to install another one. The controls for this one will be wireless. A lot has changed in 15 years.
:)

Did you ever get your wireless setup installed?
I just bought a gear motor for mine and I'm looking for different control options.

Kevin
 
Did you ever get your wireless setup installed?
I just bought a gear motor for mine and I'm looking for different control options.

Kevin
Kevin,

I did get it installed. It's a great addition. The wireless remote really makes life a lot easier.
I found a very talented controls electrician that got me hooked up.
Materials and labor ran $1,000.00



Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 
While slightly off topic, I would suggest anyone looking at a free standing jib crane look at a sleeve mount. The bad news is you have to have enough free height above the top of the crane to set the pillar, about 15-20% of the height. If you are calculating the necessary height remember the beam will not be on top of the pillar when you set it, so that gives you extra head room. The good news is all the area around the pillar is usable. No studs, nuts, or braces to present a trip hazard.

I like the power rotation on my jib. Mine is factory supplied with a ring gear drive. It cogs a little rather than being perfectly smooth, but that hasn't been a problem.
 
My memory may be off but I saw a jib crane, probably made in house, that had a ring gear and worm gear to pivot the arm around. This was in an old foundry machine was a mix of wood beams and iron castings/forgings. Probably made before 1890 or so.
Bill D.
 








 
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