Moving and Securing K&T 3K

Ja_cain · Apr 5, 2017

Preparing to make the 4.5 hour trek to pick up a 3K. Was wondering what the preferred method of securing an 8k+ machine is. Was thinking chains and binders around the base front and back. With the knee dropped, a ratchet strap just behind the table secured to the sides. Another strap over the over arms on the back of the machine and secured to the rear of trailer to stabilize when braking. Is there anything I can place under the chain to keep it from scarring the machine? Will also cut some 4"×4" to put between the mill and the front of the trailer. Also, what would be the correct way to position the mill on the trailer? Was originally thinking over the axles, but I'm now thinking I should move it a little bit toward the front of the trailer (couple feet). Last thing, thinking about picking up a toe jack to get the mill off of pipe and onto some wood pads. Does Northern Tool sell a decent one? Need to find one locally as I don't think I have enough time to order on from eBay. Thanks for any help/advice provided!

Justin

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cranium · Apr 5, 2017

I used to have a couple chains which were sheathed in canvas/rubber fire hose for jobs like you describe. Chains and binders are good but I think 2" straps will serve you just as well. Best wishes,

m16ty · Apr 5, 2017

Yes, fire hose works well as "softeners". Stop by your local fire department, they always have a numch of old fire hose lying around.

You also want to place the load ahead of the axles to put some weight on the tow vehicle. If you put it directly over the axles, it can cause the trailer to fishtail and put you in the ditch.

ewlsey · Apr 5, 2017

Most trailers you can pull with a pickup are happy with the load centered over the front axle. I prefer chains to straps, but often use both.

Here is how I chained down a Maho MH800.

gbent · Apr 5, 2017

I like to have the load centered over the front axle. That usually gives the desired 10% tongue weight. If you have a gooseneck, a little further forward is better. If you have a fender trailer, you will have to live with placing the mill where it can be accessed.

Old fire hose makes good softeners. Cut into appropriate lengths and split lengthwise in the center of the flat. This makes it easy to put over the chain rather than installing from one end. Carpet remnants, heavy sacks, conveyor belting, and pieces of old canvas tarps also work well.

If you are going to secure over the knee, put a block under the knee first and lower the knee onto the block. This removes the load from the elevating screw.

Blazemaster · Apr 5, 2017

I like to cut a few chunks of 4x4 and put them under the knee when I bring it down, so it sits on the 4x4's

Edit: nm beat me to it! ^

Hobby Shop · Apr 5, 2017

If it's a wood deck trailer, I like to screw (4) 2x4's to the deck and box the base in. Our roads in Mi are like driving down an old washed out back country 2 track. If the base isn't boxed in around here, it will move.

Ox · Apr 5, 2017

Just reading the original post has me concerned that you could be over your head.

An 8000# machine on a bumper pull will suck to begin with, but if you get that even just a little off position, you will have adverse effects in either direction.

With that said - log chains and binders, and carpet to protect.

Also - I like to wrap a strap around the top of anything that could even remotely topple over.

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Keep it 'tween the ditches eh!
Ox

ewlsey · Apr 5, 2017

That Maho weigh 7,500 lbs and I pulled it home from spitting distance of Alabama on a bumper pull trailer. No issues.

Ox · Apr 5, 2017

The longer the trailer - by far - the better!

I drug an 8K# grinder home from Detroit once yrs ago on a short tri-axle on the bumper (not really the bumper) and I when I got home I ordered a 30' gooseneck!

My BIL broke my Reese hitch a few yrs ago too. It was rusted at the interface of the receiver just like a chamfer for a weld, and when he got tight on the chain - it just popped off. Now he can be a bit Russian in his handlings sometimes, but I looked at the broken hitch, and was very glad that it broke where it did! I don't like bumper pulls to begin with, and that REALLY sent me :willy_nilly:

after that!

Y'all have fun with that!

-------------------------

Think Snow Eh!
Ox

ewlsey · Apr 5, 2017

My trailer is 21' of deck with a very long tongue. It pulls very well. I really prefer bumper pull trailers. I like being able to put something in the back of the truck.

The trailer is good for 14,000lbs. That's plenty for a pickup, no matter what everyone seems to think. If I had dual wheels and more brakes, I could handle a little more.

Tyrone Shoelaces · Apr 5, 2017

I used sections of used car tyre as chain protectors. Just saw the tyre up on a bandsaw.

For a machine that size you should be able to bar the machine off the rollers with a good sized crow bar.

Don't use rollers that are too big in diameter.

In the past I've got milling machines of around this size off the rollers by carefully positioning a stout, short length of hard wood between the knee casting and the ground. Wind the knee down and the front of the machine will come up. You can then carefully pull the front roller out.

Wind the knee back up. This will allow the front of the machine base touch to the ground and the back end to come up. Be very careful at this point that the machine doesn't move on the rear roller.Put your packings under the rear corners and wind the knee down again.

This should bring the front of the machine up far enough for you to carefully remove the rear roller. Position your packings at the front corners, wind the knee up and the machine base will come down onto the front packings.

Abracadabra.

Notice there are plenty of " carefully's " in that.

Of course if you do this and it all goes wrong don't blame me.

Regards Tyrone.

WHHJR · Apr 5, 2017

ewlsey said:
My trailer is 21' of deck with a very long tongue. It pulls very well. I really prefer bumper pull trailers. I like being able to put something in the back of the truck.

The trailer is good for 14,000lbs. That's plenty for a pickup, no matter what everyone seems to think. If I had dual wheels and more brakes, I could handle a little more.

I hope you mean receiver hitch and not 'Bumper'. No truck bumper has been rated to pull a dog house let alone a 4+ ton load ever.

2¢

ewlsey · Apr 5, 2017

10 characters.

Ja_cain · Apr 6, 2017

Alot of good info here everyone. I appreciate the advice. The trailer is a 10k rated drop deck trailer. Shouldn't be too bad rolling it on then back off. I will try to pick up some fire hose today. If I can't come up with anything, then I'll just bring some carpet. Will try to find an old tire. I've got some small sections of thick stall mat that I could potentully use too. Will post up some pics when I get them.

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Ja_cain · Apr 6, 2017

Tyrone Shoelaces said:
I used sections of used car tyre as chain protectors. Just saw the tyre up on a bandsaw.

For a machine that size you should be able to bar the machine off the rollers with a good sized crow bar.

Don't use rollers that are too big in diameter.

In the past I've got milling machines of around this size off the rollers by carefully positioning a stout, short length of hard wood between the knee casting and the ground. Wind the knee down and the front of the machine will come up. You can then carefully pull the front roller out.

Wind the knee back up. This will allow the front of the machine base touch to the ground and the back end to come up. Be very careful at this point that the machine doesn't move on the rear roller.Put your packings under the rear corners and wind the knee down again.

This should bring the front of the machine up far enough for you to carefully remove the rear roller. Position your packings at the front corners, wind the knee up and the machine base will come down onto the front packings.

Abracadabra.

Notice there are plenty of " carefully's " in that.

Of course if you do this and it all goes wrong don't blame me.

Regards Tyrone.

That is a great idea on using the knee to remove the pipes. I was wondering how I was going to do that without a toe jack or one of those pry bars on wheels. Might still pick up one of these though.

Do you think it would be ok to leave the machine in the pipe while transporting it? Will definitely put wood in front of the machine if I do it. Thanks for the advice!

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Ox · Apr 6, 2017

No

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Think Snow Eh!
Ox

gbent · Apr 6, 2017

Don't waste your money on the wheelie pry bar. It isn't rated for anything like your machine weight, even if you and two friends are big enough to lean on it. The wheels are simply set back to far for sufficient leverage.

Buy a riggers nose bar. You will need it regularly. http://www.easternrigging.com/prybar.htm

Old bias ply tires were ok to cut up. Steel belted radials don't cut well. And don't try to cut through the bead wires, just cut the beads out and throw them away. If your stall mats are tough rather than soft they should work well.

ewlsey · Apr 6, 2017

Bicycle tires work pretty well as chain protectors. Just cut sections out and they wrap around the chains pretty nicely.

I use carpet scraps too.

Ja_cain · Apr 6, 2017

gbent said:
Don't waste your money on the wheelie pry bar. It isn't rated for anything like your machine weight, even if you and two friends are big enough to lean on it. The wheels are simply set back to far for sufficient leverage.

Buy a riggers nose bar. You will need it regularly. http://www.easternrigging.com/prybar.htm

Old bias ply tires were ok to cut up. Steel belted radials don't cut well. And don't try to cut through the bead wires, just cut the beads out and throw them away. If your stall mats are tough rather than soft they should work well.

That nose bar looks awesome. Went by the local place that sells rigging stuff and they didn't have anything like that. Do you think this would work well?

MARSHALLTOWN The Premier Line 1453 Open Angle Monster Pry Bar - - Amazon.com

I think I can dig up some old tires or bike tires. I have a portaband that would probably go through the belting ok. Thanks a lot for all of the help!

Moving and Securing K&T 3K

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