Moving a Tree Mill

Gwizdak · Jul 25, 2017

I am picking up a New to me Tree Mill and LeBlond lathe. The equipment is 3 hours away and I am hiring a company to extract the machines and deliver to my house. I have a few questions.

1) I have read about flipping the head 180 to ship. Do I need to do this?
Y
2) strapping down the Mill and lathe what is the best way?

Any other things I shoud know?

Thanks Paul

winger · Jul 26, 2017

Tipping it would lower the center of gravity, but the Tree mill head is an oil bath type and the oil will probably leak out. I would just add extra straps. I think it is close to 3000 lbs.

Dave

daryl bane · Jul 26, 2017

Unfortunately, I was looking for pics of when I moved mine the last time and can't find them. I think....? that I laid the head 90 deg to the right with the filler cup above horizontal and blocked the head with a 4x4 against the table. I don't remember oil leaking, but this might be a memory based on fantasy. The Tree manual states that the head is shipped inverted for compactness, but it was probably shipped dry also. For a 3 hr tour, if strapped correctly by professionals, shouldn't be a problem...he says. I hired a rigger and they strapped the hell out of it every which way. I did lower the table to the very bottom of the travel and if I did tilt the head over and block it, that would make a very nice heavy compact package.

m16ty · Jul 26, 2017

We move a lot of mills. Only time we ever spin the head is to get through a low door or something, otherwise we leave it upright.

Gwizdak · Jul 26, 2017

Ok thanks for the info. I am planing on bringing some lumber to put between the head and the bed.

Thanks Paul

Monarchist · Jul 27, 2017

Gwizdak said:
Ok thanks for the info. I am planing on bringing some lumber to put between the head and the bed.

Thanks Paul

I am fond of used tires for that, and for "lassoing" uprights as an attach point for straps.

Cheap "rubber" doormats from a "Dollar.." type store can be used flat, cut and stacked, or rolled-up and jammed into places to work with timber, etc. that need that to protect wheels and handles and such as well.

ewlsey · Jul 27, 2017

Here are some pictures of similar machines.

I've got pictures of a lathe somewhere. I live chains, but straps would work if done right.

Mike1974 · Jul 27, 2017

Gwizdak said:
I am picking up a New to me Tree Mill and LeBlond lathe. The equipment is 3 hours away and I am hiring a company to extract the machines and deliver to my house. I have a few questions.

1) I have read about flipping the head 180 to ship. Do I need to do this?
Y
2) strapping down the Mill and lathe what is the best way?

Any other things I shoud know?

Thanks Paul

If you are paying a company, don't they know how to rig them?

Gwizdak · Jul 27, 2017

Mike1974 said:
If you are paying a company, don't they know how to rig them?

Yes, I just want to make sure they do it right.

Thanks

Monarchist · Jul 27, 2017

Gwizdak said:
Yes, I just want to make sure they do it right.

Thanks

Got the same attitude about my Dental work.

Learned a long time ago to just pick a GOOD one, open my damned mouth, but say little!

If he actually knows less than I do about his Day Job, I am badly f****d, no matter WHAT I know.

Riggers are much the same, but prefer amateurs keep their mouths shut.

And "at a safe distance", so as not to be a distraction, let alone outright safety hazard.

R_Audano · Jul 27, 2017

I agree in not coaching riggers. Could cost you extra and it's their liability.

We haul our own iron. It's always a good rule to first prevent machine from shifting fore/aft and side to side. Screw lumber to bed and block in place if gifted with wood bed. If not, chains around the base will suffice. Secondly, independent straps/chains in multiple directions at as high a point as reasonably possible. Mills can tip beneath a strap or chain just thrown over the top. Distance hauled is often a factor in the decision and it should not be. Just as much chance of upsetting while pulling in the driveway from a block away as merging 100 miles away. Any load worth keeping deserves a 10 mile inspection to ensure any initial shifting didnt leave a loose link.

Just my practice but all my iron makes it safely.

ewlsey · Jul 27, 2017

R_Audano said:
Any load worth keeping deserves a 10 mile inspection to ensure any initial shifting didnt leave a loose link.

DOT wants you to check your load in the first 50 miles.

Bill D · Jul 29, 2017

I have read to block under the table then block under the head to the table top.
Bill D

Gwizdak · Aug 11, 2017

Update:

Both were picked up and delivered safely into my shed.

R_Audano · Aug 12, 2017

Glad to see everything intact.

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