Need some info on a Hyster forklift. - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkmc View Post
    I think at my age now (52) I would be looking for lots of reasons to NOT pull the engine OR split the trans off it unless it was a dire necessity.
    When I was younger....perhaps, just to satisfy my curiosity and ensure a superior job.
    LOL, made me chuckle with my Sunday morning coffee. I'm 53 and you are spot on with your comment.

    KIMFAB - Thanks for the great pictures and info. I had to pull the starter on mine and there was a ton of crud in there as well. I believe it comes in from the screened area above plus being roughtly 48 years old.

    I never ran a compression check on mine because it was a question I didn't want to know the answer too and runs fine.

    As for splitting the trans and motor. There is the drum parking brake in that area that could make it hard to pull. Just a thought don't know for sure.

    Here did you find a manual I'm still looking for one.

  2. #22
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    FWIW.....I got my H20E around 7-8 years ago (now), and 'did' the starter thing shortly after I got it. Maximum crud in that area as well.
    Did I mention 'pressure wash- -pressure wash- -pressure wash- ???

    -Had no brakes (do any of them??) as mentioned before.
    -No muffler, it's a tight fit to get any 'stock' muffler in there, and a new one was like $450 from sHyster. (I did keep track of the custom muffler project, and that was around 14! hours)
    -Totally messed up wiring, which is just functional, but still needs hours of de-cobbing.
    -Non-existent piston rod seal in lift cylinder.
    I machined the packing nut and pressed in a seal. It looked like it leaked for years.
    -No floor plate, still annoys me to this day....must make one...some day soon I hope.
    -Non working GM alternator, fitted a 1 wire VW-Bosh.
    -Ratty fuel hoses
    -Seat is still trashed (aren't they all??)
    -Parking brake non-functional. There is a hydraulic actuated 'rod/lever' that pulls a short chain underneath, that's connected to the parking brake linkage. It comes on automatically when you go from 'drive' to 'neutral' on the dash buttons. The chain is unhooked, and not-quite-long-enough to reconnect. Don't know why still at this point.
    Prolly another 15 hours of in-addition-to above list, of little tinker work it needs still. No time!

    Oh ya.....needs a paint job!

    dk

  3. #23
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    Default Used Parts

    Joe from Allbrand Forklift Parts in Ft Worth Texas has been a life saver several times. He sold us the parts to convert a Hyster H60C from hydraulic to manual clutch when we couldn't get replacement parts for the hydraulic one. Really great to deal with.

    Give him a try if you need anything major.

    Jeff

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkmc View Post

    EDIT:
    Wait, wait.....I checked your profile.
    Retired.
    That explains it, hobby project.
    You will have fun and enjoyment with this!

    You nailed it. I spent my career chasing invisible electrons and deadbeat renters and now have a need to play with stuff I can touch.

    I have a 3000 lb Nissan that works fine. I traded a some machinery for some other machinery and this came along for the ride.

    At 67 and broken I'm no longer capable of doing a decent job on this so I turned it over to a younger and more enthusiastic mechanic who has some experience with this.

    The guy I got it from had it rebuilt and it never ran decently after that and it sat for at least 7 years. I felt after looking at the fluids and general condition it would be best to check everything out

    Didn't want to run it and find a destroyed seal or a loose bolt like I found in my DSG lathe.

    Edit: Or find a too small key in the hydraulic pump shaft that wore itself a wider slot. That's the key on the left of the shaft.
    Any ideas on how to fix this? Cut a new slot? would rather not have to replace the pump.

    Last edited by KIMFAB; 02-13-2012 at 08:36 AM. Reason: Add a pic

  5. #25
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    What does the sleeve the shaft rides in look like ??? Is it worn as well ??? Looks like the key used was too small and caused the wear ??

  6. #26
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    Good idea to take the shaft out and cut another KW 180 degrees opposite from that one. Could tune up the pump end plates while it's apart (if they need it).

  7. #27
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    Just put a new seat on my clean little one owner....only driven to church on Sundays Hyster YE-40. Need to fix the hand brake and get the gauges working.



  8. #28
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    Yes, the sleeve for the hydraulic pump gear is worn like the pump shaft. Would like to replace this if I can find it.

    Separated the engine and trans just behind the engine.



    While we were at it, took out the hydraulic reservoir and control and the fan.



    cleaned up the inside to ready it for the Hotsy treatment. Four large bolts hold the counterweight on.


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  10. #29
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    Moved the engine inside because of bad weather. Will clean these up now.
    There was a sticker on the engine dating the rebuild at 1997, meaning that this unit sat for 15 years.




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  12. #30
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    What an ambitious approach.
    I'm enjoying this as a spectator!
    Great photos.......keep 'em coming.

    Will it go to the paint department in the end??




    PS I like the short 'riggers mast' it has......
    Heck, I like that blue lathe too...

  13. #31
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    Not real big on paint. I like to keep it original if possible. Like others a fresh coat of paint makes me suspicious.

    I think a machine looks better if in good shape with a few battle scars.

    As far as the blue DSG lathe, that was several projects before. I started with this.



    That story is here. Shows the lengths an old man will go to to combat boredom.

    http://www.kimfab.com/dsglathe.htm

    Meanwhile the Hotsy was broken out and some parts cleaned.





    So far the engine seems OK, will check further, but there are some nagging doubts like very little oil in the torque converter and no air filter on the carb.

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  15. #32
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    New valve springs??
    That seems unusual.....it don't turn 6 grand....or 4 or 3

    Aw man.....it would look so nice with -original color matching- fresh paint...
    it's in a state to do it right, instead of a 'fog-over' of everything 'Pittsburgh overhaul' style....
    And you have this thread with pics to quell any suspicions!
    I vote for fresh paint.....does my vote count? I'll guess 'no'...

  16. #33
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    All right, I'll see what I can do, maybe some caterpillar yellow if I can't match the color exactly.

    I'm still nervous about a few things. Don't want to stick a whole lot of money into this.
    I've got a good forklift and I also have another project going that is also sucking cash.

  17. #34
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    Here is what I found after opening the water pump. Looks like the unit was filled with plain water, no antifreeze, and rusted and evaporated over the years.

    There was quite a bit of solid rust inside that I already removed before the pic.

    The radiator will have to be disassembled and boiled. It hardly passes water. I ran hi pressure from the hotsy thru the block with the freeze plugs out to clean it.



    .

  18. #35
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    Don't feel bad my water pump looked the same way....I think it is semi normal for an old used and abused forklift that sits a lot. You might wind up recoring the radiator if you clean all the crud out of it.

  19. #36
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    Retro
    What is your tire size on the front? Looks like yours is a little newer.

    Anyway got the engine up on the stand.



    After looking inside it looks excellent with a new cam and pistons. The rods also appear to be new.



    The rebuilders seem to have done a good job but the folks that installed it were probably a bunch of clowns.

    The engine looks like it was assembled with moly grease that has pretty much drooled into the pan.



    The oil pressure spring under the plug on the side of the block is all guffunny I'll have to try to find a replacement or come up with something.

  20. #37
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    Had trouble getting the axles out so I ended up having to go further in on this unit where I found a lot of metal pieces.

    Pulled the counterweight, trans and differential and found a bearing with no balls on the pinion shaft and some other problems.

    This is where I'm at now, haven't had time to post pics yet. My Hotsy died so I have to fix that first.



    I'm thinking maybe I should start over in a new thread, this is going to be ugly.

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  22. #38
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    OK........We'll be waiting for the pics that show the absolutely bare frame
    with a fresh coat of epoxy primer.....

    Keep up the good work.....

  23. #39
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    Laughing out loud.....you certainly are not a man who takes the easy way out. Wow....that thing is down to nothing. Looking forward to seeing more.

    The tire size on mine is 7.50 - 15. I think it is over sized from stock.

  24. #40
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    Got the Hotsy running and am back from Reno ready to go

    I'll backtrack a bit here and start back where the engine was on the stand.

    Went to pull the axles which did not feel right coming out.





    The steering was pretty sloppy so off comes the counterweight.





    Pulling the trans and differential to check for loose parts.





    Took a while to figure out that these two bolts in the pumpkin had to be removed to release the differential.





    The plot thickens. All kinds of junk in the differential housing.




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