Thread: "truck mast" type forklifts with really short masts... are they usually double stage?

Originally Posted by Steve in SoCal

Kinda,

I got a package I wasn't expecting for a day or two and went off to play! Air leveling valve for my truck

If that Toyota is really what your looking for EXCEPT the cage, consider choping the top.

Steve

I like that Toyota and the nice paint job they did but next step is to call around to other sellers who have the same short mast model to see if their OHG height is 80.1" like it is in the brochure. The seller of the one pictured where the OHG height is 82.5" has 20 or so of the same truck and they are all 82.5" tall...but they all came from the same corporation....so maybe there are some "normal" 80.1" ones out there. Or maybe someone typoed the brochure.

Originally Posted by Milacron

I like that Toyota and the nice paint job they did but next step is to call around to other sellers who have the same short mast model to see if their OHG height is 80.1" like it is in the brochure. The seller of the one pictured where the OHG height is 82.5" has 20 or so of the same truck and they are all 82.5" tall...but they all came from the same corporation....so maybe there are some "normal" 80.1" ones out there. Or maybe someone typoed the brochure.

Well, damn if all the others I called about aren't 82+" OHG heights as well.....someone at the Toyota brochure squad apparently just screwed up on that spec.

So, back to the "chop the top" idea.....it could even be done in place with a portable Milwaukee bandsaw.... I wonder if the headlight wires run down from the front tubing to the console or if they run backwards up and over to the rear tubing ?

Originally Posted by Milacron

Well, damn if all the others I called about aren't 82+" OHG heights as well.....someone at the Toyota brochure squad apparently just screwed up on that spec.

So, back to the "chop the top" idea.....it could even be done in place with a portable Milwaukee bandsaw.... I wonder if the headlight wires run down from the front tubing to the console or if they run backwards up and over to the rear tubing ?

Probably at least as easily doable with a stout tubing cutter if round, a Milwaukee Sawzall (which I have) vs bandsaw (which I do not have..) if rectangular.

I'd not be overly worried about lighting wires. Not as if they were live 8800 volters. Easily enough spliced - and properly, not redneck. One might want them externally routed, anyway, EMT or such of their own.

And.. if I were going to do a "chop" at all.. I'd surely see about taking it down more than just two inches-ish, and/or-plus making it flip-back, slide-back, or readily detachable.

Originally Posted by Monarchist

I'd not be overly worried about lighting wires. Not as if they were live 8800 volters. Easily enough spliced - and properly, not redneck. One might want them externally routed, anyway

I'm not "worried" about cutting the wires..just figured it would be easier to pull them out of harms way before cutting the tubing if they happen to route toward the rear. But more likely they route below the cut and would be a non issue. For that matter a new top could be made out of plywood and just screwed to hammered in wood wedges inside the rectangular tubing... no welding or grinding necessary and ya get a bit of rain protection at the same time ! Not as protective in case something drops on ya of course.

In your picture, there are 1" diameter holes in the cage frame. Wires go thru the one up front. Can't see left vs. right, but it seems 'what's in the tube' wouldn't be hard to figure out.

Chip

I can't help but wonder if there is a standard OHG for the Japanese domestic market and a larger version for the oversized American market.

Originally Posted by Milacron

I'm not "worried" about cutting the wires..just figured it would be easier to pull them out of harms way before cutting the tubing if they happen to route toward the rear. But more likely they route below the cut and would be a non issue. For that matter a new top could be made out of plywood and just screwed to hammered in wood wedges inside the rectangular tubing... no welding or grinding necessary and ya get a bit of rain protection at the same time ! Not as protective in case something drops on ya of course.

Not protective of an OSHA inspection or lawsuit either.

In the picture you can clearly see a light wire coming out of the hole in the forward bar to a light. The idea of doing the mod in place is possible, the rear structure can stay in place. The upper bars in the pic show some overrun in the back so, when the forward mounts are lowered the bar will move forward as well as down but, still cover the upright.

The cage would be cut at the correct new location top rear, the top/forward cage removed, dressed and the forward mounts relocated. The rear uprights cut and dressed to match, weld em together and away you go. I don't think that a bolted cage is approved or prudent. A removable section sounds interesting but, how often would that be needed.

The rear uprights only need to be cut to proper height, all the other work, removing the old weld intersection etc done with the removed forward section. This addresses a number of issues, first the rear is part of the body and would be a chore to remove. The forward section is unitized and can be manipulated to do the work off the truck easily. When the forward bars/mounting pads are relocated the cage will be lowered and, the upper bars will move forward. The upper bars kinda looks like they were run long to address the possibility of repositioning ?

Steve

I like the plywood and mashed-in 2X4's idea..simple yet classy! Just make sure you use galvanized nails and paint it the proper color..gotta match the lift. Easier yet would be let some air out of the tires or take a few leaves out of the springs. All kinds of options here.

Stuart

Originally Posted by Milacron

I'm not "worried" about cutting the wires..just figured it would be easier to pull them out of harms way before cutting the tubing if they happen to route toward the rear. But more likely they route below the cut and would be a non issue. For that matter a new top could be made out of plywood and just screwed to hammered in wood wedges inside the rectangular tubing... no welding or grinding necessary and ya get a bit of rain protection at the same time ! Not as protective in case something drops on ya of course.

The wires for the headlights go down the front ROPS posts. One on left,and one on the right. PB

p.s. My 7fg and 8 fg 5k lifts are 80 " to top of ROPS with fairly new tires.

We've got a 12k lift with a 60" mast that we use in our machinery moving business. I know OSHA frowns on it but the ROPS is removed. Some of the places we go, it's the only thing that will fit in there and the operator has to just duck.

I think it has a max lift of around 6'.

Originally Posted by Milacron

This TCM is interesting in that it's the only triple stage mast lift I have noticed where the lowered mast is shorter than the OHG. I'll bet that turns out to be because the OHG and/or the truck body itself, is unusually tall but I emailed the seller to measure it...we'll see....


21 LP Gas TCM FCG15-4HL Cushion Tire 4 Wheel Sit Down (Indoor Warehouse)

I don't know why that's not more common either. My antique Allis Chalmers has 81" from cage to ground, but only 75" from mast top to ground. 3 stage. Lifts to 13' and change.

Originally Posted by tdmidget

Not protective of an OSHA inspection or lawsuit either.

Yeah I'm real concerned about that in a home in a gated community on Hilton Head Island with only me ever operating the thing

Originally Posted by Milacron

Yeah I'm real concerned about that in a home in a gated community on Hilton Head Island with only me ever operating the thing

Hey,

You never know what those pesky HOA's will resort to. Forget OSHA the HOA can make rules that make the most off the wall government regulations seem reasonable. I hope your new garage is not facing the street, some of your new neighbors could stroke out at the sight of a forklift in the hood.

Steve

IMHO you want the cage safety wise any were, not for roll over but for personel protection, but it looks like a half dozen bolts, a couple of thin cut of disks and a half hour weld time + tin of spray and you could easily lower that cage a inch or 2 with very very little difficulty assuming your not too tall - need the head room to sit in it.

yeah i know modifying it technically makes it fall out of the system as a approved safety device, but its still going to really work just fine being 2" shorter!

My only slight concern being propane its going to draw more attention than a electric in a more domestic setting.

Originally Posted by Steve in SoCal

Hey,

You never know what those pesky HOA's will resort to. Forget OSHA the HOA can make rules that make the most off the wall government regulations seem reasonable. I hope your new garage is not facing the street, some of your new neighbors could stroke out at the sight of a forklift in the hood.

Steve

Yet another "Gee,what a brilliant revelation" post. Do you honestly think I would be such a moron as to not think about that aspect ? I could explain why that will not be an issue in this case but just don't have the time to type it out right now.

^ Because your chief HOA and all house holds are required to have a full loading dock, forklift + nothing less than a bridgeport or there thrown out of that area?

Originally Posted by adama

^ Because your chief HOA and all house holds are required to have a full loading dock, forklift + nothing less than a bridgeport or there thrown out of that area?

I'm sursprised someone from the land of "Industrial Estates". (Here they are industrial parks) even knows the term HOA

They are some what famous, equally the rest of the world finds it some what amusing the freedoms you have there and then you live some where were the hight of your grass gets you a fine! Its sorta amusing i spouse to the rest of the world.