Adding EIA to T2 mazatrol - Page 4
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  1. #61
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    That post I linked to is no good, it's for a later model integrex or similar.

    It looks like the generic fanuc post is a good place to start.

    I was making progress on worked and what didn't and my spindle drive or motor took a crap. Really frustrating.
    I might abandon the mitsi freqrol and go with a cheap inverter spindle drive.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GP Tech View Post
    That post I linked to is no good, it's for a later model integrex or similar.

    It looks like the generic fanuc post is a good place to start.

    I was making progress on worked and what didn't and my spindle drive or motor took a crap. Really frustrating.
    I might abandon the mitsi freqrol and go with a cheap inverter spindle drive.
    My spindle is working ok after being left off overnight. The drive doesn't like getting warm after being on for a few hours.

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by GP Tech View Post
    My spindle is working ok after being left off overnight. The drive doesn't like getting warm after being on for a few hours.
    You can check the main stuff in those drives with a DMM.

    The stuff that is likely to fail in the high current portion of the drive would be:

    Main Rectifier diodes
    DC Link Capacitors
    Transistor Modules
    Wire-wound resistors

    You can check all of that with a quality DMM, even without a spec sheet.
    Just be sure to check for high DC voltage in those big capacitors before you do ANYTHING else. They can store upward of 600 volts.

    Make sure the cap is close to the value printed on the label in uf.
    Make sure the TMs are relatively close to each other in their resistance values between E, B, C terminals.

    It is tough to get good readings without taking out the bus-bars, etc.
    That's where your digital camera will save you. Take good pictures before pulling anything out.

    If one of those parts is failing softly due to heat, you can swap in a new component before it goes completely and burns up other stuff.
    You might be able to save that drive with some inexpensive parts.
    If you know someone with a megger, disconnect your spindle motor and check it too.

    I've saved a Fanuc spindle drive with a $10 resistor.

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  5. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by cwtoyota View Post
    You can check the main stuff in those drives with a DMM.

    The stuff that is likely to fail in the high current portion of the drive would be:

    Main Rectifier diodes
    DC Link Capacitors
    Transistor Modules
    Wire-wound resistors

    You can check all of that with a quality DMM, even without a spec sheet.
    Just be sure to check for high DC voltage in those big capacitors before you do ANYTHING else. They can store upward of 600 volts.

    Make sure the cap is close to the value printed on the label in uf.
    Make sure the TMs are relatively close to each other in their resistance values between E, B, C terminals.

    It is tough to get good readings without taking out the bus-bars, etc.
    That's where your digital camera will save you. Take good pictures before pulling anything out.

    If one of those parts is failing softly due to heat, you can swap in a new component before it goes completely and burns up other stuff.
    You might be able to save that drive with some inexpensive parts.
    If you know someone with a megger, disconnect your spindle motor and check it too.

    I've saved a Fanuc spindle drive with a $10 resistor.
    Thanks, I've been over the drive a few times and replaced all the electrolytics which did fix up some of the issues it had, but it looks like the DK434 chips are playing up when it gets warm. I'm going to try the VFD retrofit, nothing to loose. If it doesn't work I have a manual lathe I can use the VFD on.

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  7. #65
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    That's a good way to think about it. You have to figure the old drive will die out completely someday.

    I'm interested in seeing the conversion process unfold. Sounds like a fun project (as long as the machine isn't holding up any paying work).

  8. #66
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    You can find the DK434 chips on Ebay.

    With an oscilloscope, it is possible to determine which firing circuit is bad on the SE-IO1 main board. This is what MEAU does, as they only replace the minimum necessary components.

    I have successfully rebuilt a SE-IO1 by replacing -all- the main components in the firing circuits: DK434, and all the related: capacitors, transitors, diodes, and resistors.

    The transistors are a PAIN because you have to de-solder the heat sinks first.

    But, I too am interested in a "best spindle-drive retrofit" practices for Mazak's with T2/T3 controls.

    ToolCat

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  10. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by cnctoolcat View Post
    You can find the DK434 chips on Ebay.

    With an oscilloscope, it is possible to determine which firing circuit is bad on the SE-IO1 main board. This is what MEAU does, as they only replace the minimum necessary components.

    I have successfully rebuilt a SE-IO1 by replacing -all- the main components in the firing circuits: DK434, and all the related: capacitors, transitors, diodes, and resistors.

    The transistors are a PAIN because you have to de-solder the heat sinks first.

    But, I too am interested in a "best spindle-drive retrofit" practices for Mazak's with T2/T3 controls.

    ToolCat
    I've ordered the VFD, 7.5kw.

    I'll start a new thread with that one.

    I think the next step with the EIA is developing a post from fusion that works 100%, xa mont has offered some help as well as atomkinder.

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  12. #68
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    This FX17 board came in today. Do the jumper settings look correct?
    So far I haven't found a chart for FX17 jumpers.

    img_0271.jpg


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