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Thread: Mazak QT15 alarms help

  1. #1
    rockfish's Avatar
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    Default Mazak QT15 alarms help

    A few days ago, I decided to run my Mazak QT15 to circulate the coolant, and when I turned the machine on, I got a battery alarm. Since I've been getting alarms off and on with the machine and I don't know what I'm doing with it, I simply cleared the alarm and ran the coolant. This morning, I turned the machine on, and got the battery alarm again.
    I cleared the alarm and then tried to home the machine and got a e-stop alarm that I cannot clear.

    What now ???




    Frank


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    Joe788 is offline Titanium
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    The first battery alarm was to tell you not to turn the machine off, or you'll lose everything. The second time was to tell you you've lost everything, then when you tried to home it, it either went into e-stop because it didn't know where it was, or it overtraveled because it didn't know where it was. Have you tried calling Mazak? This is a fairly common thing and they should be able to help you out pretty easily.


    edit to add: When I say "everything" I just mean the parameters for the drive that has the dead battery, no literally everything.

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    I replaced the battery and I still have a e-stop alarm that I can't clear.

    Possibly lost parameters???



    Frank




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    Default Check what diagnosis page says.

    Hi Frank,

    Have you tried getting a bit more information about the alarms by checking what the diagnosis page says? It's the far right soft key and it will tell you what the nature of the problem is.

    Things to check:

    Phase rotation on the motors. The hydraulic motor is the easiest place to check with a wire tie.
    Air hooked up?
    E stop button pushed?
    Hydraulic fluid in reservoir?

    What does diagnosis say?
    What do your parameter screens look like? Weird random numbers, some positive- some negative, lots of asterixs? Bad news. If they look uncorrupted then not parameters.

    Sorry for the short response, but I'm out camping for the weekend and typing on my iPhone.

    Good luck!


    Grant

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    wippin' boy is offline Diamond
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    Possibly lost parameters???
    a common indicator of parameter damage is a bunch of **** and inappropriate symbols all over the place

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    Is there any chance that the machine has a second e-stop button elsewhere? Not that common on a lathe as a mill, but ???

    How about an access door that is not shut quite right?

    Air is on right?

    Any chance that this machine has a "lift" type e-stop where you need to lift here while pushing there, and maybe after running other machines in the shop you forgot about the "lift" part? (I have one like that)

    RESET?

    Cycle the power at the case level? (wall?)


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    jewilc is offline Plastic
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    A trick that I learned to clear some stubborn E-Stop alarms is to first power off the control, power off the main power / trip reset switch. Wait for a minute, power on the main power/ reset switch, press and hold at the same time, the Reset and VFC buttons. Continue to hold while hitting the power on at the control,hold until the screen comes on. This has worked for me on a T-2 and T Plus control. Also make sure your tailstock switches are in the neutral or retract position.

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    wippin' boy is offline Diamond
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    what other alarms are on the diagnostic page?

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    The ONLY alarm on the diagnostic page is the 128 E-Stop alarm.

    I tried the reset/vfc trick and it didn't work.

    I checked the parameter page and there are random numbers and lot's of zero's.....but no strange symbols evident.






    Frank

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    wippin' boy is offline Diamond
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    i suspect your parameters are OK

    i also suggest that someones gonna pop up and say "reinitialize the control"
    DO NOT DO THAT.

    rarely is that necessary and it opens up a whole nother can of worms every time

    if e-stop is the only alarm listed it is probly (not positively) physical wire or switch problem.


    check and see if there is a little ice cube relay called "EMGH" and see if its working (swap it with another one, something like TDF or TDBZ )

    you could go to the cabinet and jumper 24 volts to EMG1 on terminal board 2-1
    that would eliminate any "external optional" possibilities
    if that doesn't do it then put 24 volts to EMGX, that should jump out all the "regular" e-stop buttons

    look at the ice cube relays and see if EMGB is lit up that may help decide if its maybe coming from the NC or not

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    I hope this has nothing to do with the parameters.......because the parameter "back-up" disc that was provided with the machine turns out to be disc 1 of 2 discs (which I don't have the second disc) of a pc-link program that may or may not contain the parameters.

    Either way, it asks me to load the second disc, which I do not have........so I will never know if this has all of the info I need.


    I might add that this whole situation just keeps getting better and better.



    Frank

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    Frank I know it sucks big time right now, I went thru the same type of deal when I first got mine I probably knew less then you do but stick with it.

    Its a learning curve steep as it maybe at first but it will be worth it in the long haul.

    Don't know if you heard but Bax Global in Toledo (one of our main customers) is shutting down its facility 1st of September after 20 years in business so my trips up your way are numbered. If I get another layover there I'll drop in and see ya and we can put our heads together and see whats going on.

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    wippin' boy is offline Diamond
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    hang in there frank
    worst case i could get someone to burn a copy of my qt 15 t32
    it should be close enough to get you going if your blanked out, but i don't really think you are yet.

    i do think i would try and do a fresh back up of the machine now, just in case something goes wrong in the future

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    Dave Cross is offline Stainless
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    Have you replaced the battery yet?

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    Battery is replaced.

    Can the parameters be purchased directly from Mazak ???





    Frank

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    Dave Cross is offline Stainless
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    You could likely get a set of parameters for free if you ask nice.
    I highly doubt you need to reinitialize the control.
    Have you checked to see if your E stop switch is faulty?

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    Leelund is offline Aluminum
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    Hold the Reset Button and the OT Release at the same time, if the estop clears, release the reset while still holding the OT Release button. Jog or handle x and z axis minus direction a couple inches while still holding the OT button, and then release. If this has been tried then disregard. HTH

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    Quote Originally Posted by Leelund View Post
    Hold the Reset Button and the OT Release at the same time, if the estop clears, release the reset while still holding the OT Release button. Jog or handle x and z axis minus direction a couple inches while still holding the OT button, and then release. If this has been tried then disregard. HTH


    I could see this being a possibility from just homing from the HOME position already.

    Seems like it would say OT alarm instead of E-STOP, but it is older, and the OT and E-STOP could very likely all be in one circuit.



    FYI Rockfish, a short starter lesson in CNC:

    OT = OverTravel

    In this case it will be a "hardware" OT as opposed to a "software" OT.

    Once the machine is HOMED it has a "zone" that it is allowed to run inside of via some values entered in the parameters that tell the control the allowable travel limits.

    Once you git to the software OT it should stop moving and alarm out - and usually allow you to manually jog the machine back into the zone only. And NOT allow you to continue in the wrong direction.

    Once you git very far past the Software OT point lives a limit switch. (Hardware) Usually about .1 to 1/8"..... If you trip the limit switch - the machine goes down.

    Generally all the OT limit switches are wired in one long circuit and they ALL need to be made to allow power to engage the servo amps and such. If you have tripped a Hard OT switch, you don't have power to the amps to allow you to move back off of it. On many machines you need to access the lead screw in the offending axis and turn it by hand to get off the switch. On some tho - there is an auxilary loop to ENABLE contactor that is Normally Open. This will be a momentary pushbutton that the opperator can push to ENABLE the servos/hydro to facilitate moving off the switch in JOG mode. Once you are of the switch, you can leave off the pushbutton and the servos should stay running.

    Now the answer to the $64K question:

    "If I have a Software OT zone, how would I have gotten to the Hardware OT switch in the first bloody place?"

    The answer here is that untill you have the machine HOMED, it doesn't have a clue where that zone is. If you are near a limit switch upon enabling the machine (HOME position for any axis generally - but could be the opposite end as well) and you jog the axis the wrong way - you could trip the switch. And there you are - not exactly sure what on Earth is wrong with your machine!


    I hope LeeLund is right!



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    hitandmiss is offline Stainless
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    Frank,

    X2 on doing a fresh backup of everything.

    If you have actually hit the E-stop/Overtravel limit switch and still have the E-stop that can't be cleared, it is worth checking the switch that was activated. It is fairly common to have an overtravel switch stuck in the "in" position on machines that have not run for awhile, and then the switch is hit accidently. Cycle the plunger a few times, making sure it "clicks". A little spray of WD may be needed to soften the gum up.

    Bill

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    C-mon Mr. Fish!

    I am sure that you were in there all weekend werking on this thing - trying to git it up and running and familier with it so that you can start to make $ hand over fist with it.

    Right?


    So how we commin' here?



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