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  1. #1
    Captdave is offline Stainless
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    Default QT8 collet chuck

    I have been kicking around the idea of switching to a collet chuck on my QT8 as probably 80% of my current jobs are less than 1.0". Is it time consuming to switch back and forth as needed? What might I expect to pay for a quality used chuck? For a machine with a 6” (A2-5) chuck, are they usually 16C or 5C?

  2. #2
    dcrace is offline Aluminum
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    Default

    We are the exact opposite...probably 90% of all the jobs we run through our QT-8 is either bar work or 2nd ops from one of our other machines. I have a 16c collet nose (ATS) as the capacity of the 16c is 1 5/8 which more than fits our needs, you can also go 3J as the standard capacity there is 1 3/4 and Hardinge even makes some step chucks up to 6'' you can bore to fit you application. It only takes me about 15 minutes to switch between collet and 3 jaw chuck. As far as cost, you could check Ebay for used but I think we paid around $1000.00 for ours new.

  3. #3
    SteelCutter's Avatar
    SteelCutter is offline Hot Rolled
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    Default

    captdave:
    US Shop tools has a set of jaws that work great, you simply mount them on your existing chuck and you have a "Collet Chucking Turning Center"

    *They are a great time saver, in the time it takes to swap jaws you go from chucking to collet chucking on your Turning Center, no need to switch from Chucks to Collet Adapters.


    *You can find this system @the bottom of the page in the link below!

    http://www.usshoptools.com/current_y.../PGS_95_96.pdf

    Just a suggestion!
    SteelCutter
    Last edited by SteelCutter; 03-12-2009 at 06:47 AM.

  4. #4
    Captdave is offline Stainless
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    Default

    Now that looks pretty sweet and affordable! I hate to continually show my ignorance but I assume that the adapter mounts on the chuck and then the collets thread into the adapter, taper in the top jaws squeeze the collet together?

  5. #5
    SteelCutter's Avatar
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    Default zzzzzzzzz

    That's exactly how it works cptdave!

    *One thing to keep in mind is that the accuracy and repeatability of this system is totally a result of the condition of your chuck, if it is sloppy and the jaws plop all over the place, the system's accuracy and repeatability will suffer, HENCE: if you use it in different machines, the accuracy and repeatability will depend on the condition of each chuck, overall, it is a damn good little system, IMHO

    SteelCutter

  6. #6
    mthomure is offline Cast Iron
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    Default

    Dave,

    I have a 16C collet chuck and really like the flexability it gives me on changing sizes really quickly. Mine came with the machine so I don't know the cost seperately.
    Michael

  7. #7
    Captdave is offline Stainless
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    Thumbs up

    Called US Shop tools to get a little more info and the first thing out of there mouth was the price for this set up has went up $790.00 and there on back order for the 6” chucks. Called Rocky at Ajax and he said that the 6” isn’t a popular size and the manufactures just are making many. However, he did suggest what appears to possibly be a more cost effective alternative.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/6-CNC-Lathe-Coll...2em118Q2el1247

    By using the #3 collet pads I’ll be able to cover the full range of sizes of bar stock that I can pull down the spindle and would not be limited to 15/16” and under with 5C collets. He quoted round collet pads at $35 and hex $45.

    What ya think?

  8. #8
    SteelCutter's Avatar
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    Default "option / Ajax"

    cptdave, that was going to be my next suggestion to you, only that I was going to suggest you make your own "Master Jaws" for the pads.

    *You can save your self a good chunk of change by doing this, all they are is a set of soft top jaws, you bore out the I/D to match the "Radius" on the pads, machine a groove on the I/d to accept the rise on the pads which locate them in the master jaws and drill a hole in each jaw with a counter bore for the bolts to screw on the pads!

    Believe you me OR NOT, I made myself one of these master Jaws in the late 70's to use in a "Warner Swasey 1-SC" they worked great, of course in time I had to replace them a couple of times (( the machines are long gone, upgraded to "CNC" many moons ago )), but once you have your program in your turning center, you can pop them out in 15 minutes or so, heck, you can even make some money by selling them (( Not that I've made any myself ))

    Anyways, it is a great option to US Shop tools $800.00 proposition, we paid around $300.00 for the same system about 11 years ago from them!
    I'd make them myself, the holes can be put in on a bridgeport, gang clamp all 3 jaws in a vise, pick up the center of one jaw to the center of your jaw groove, jump your drill 2 more times the jaw width from your first hole and pop the other 2 holes and you're done! ((you'll need a c'bore also for the head of the bolts))

    *Well enough of my yapping!

    happy collet chucking!
    SteelCutter

    ps: by the way captdave, your icon/avatar thingie looks like you are giving us the finger!
    It wasn't until I put my cursor over it that I figured out it is a "thumbs up sign"
    teeheehee, kinda cool if you ask me!
    Last edited by SteelCutter; 03-12-2009 at 08:22 PM.

  9. #9
    Captdave is offline Stainless
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    Default

    I’ll have to agree that they look pretty simple to make. I’ll stop by a buddies shop on Tuesday on my way from the airport, he has a dozen or more old Brownies and I’ll bet he has a couple of old collets that I could dimension out and look at this closer.

    PS… I was trying out the emotioncons but failed miserably. I’ll have to get one of the kids to show me how to use them!

  10. #10
    SteelCutter's Avatar
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    Default avatar thingie

    captdave, don't go changing it, I was just saying it was funny, it wasn't a complaint

    SteelCutter

  11. #11
    SteelCutter's Avatar
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    Default Just Wondering...................

    captdave, I was just going through the new threads and looking at the ones I've subscribed to in P.M., happen to see yours and kind of wondered what you ever ended up doing!!!?????

    SteelCutter

  12. #12
    Captdave is offline Stainless
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    Default

    I placed a post in the tooling forum for some W&S collet pads but no responses. Found a guy on Fleebay who had 17 sets which covers all the sizes including hexes which I’m currently using and plenty more for $200. Hopefully they will be in my hands early next week.

    I’m currently running a job of 500 3” dia parts that I’m not quite ½ way thru but need to finish by Friday of next week. I won’t be back in the shop till Tuesday so no goofing off till that job is complete. After that, it will be back to bar work and a good time to work on the collet jaws.

    Although I’m blessed to have a great full time job, it really cuts into my playtime in the shop.

  13. #13
    SteelCutter's Avatar
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    Default zzzzzzzzz

    So you're going to make the master pad holders yourself?

  14. #14
    Captdave is offline Stainless
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    Default

    You sold me on the idea so heck yea I’m going to make them myself! I dug up an old set of beat up aluminum jaws that I’ll use first, then when I’m happy with the setup I’ll make the final set out of new steel jaws.

  15. #15
    SteelCutter's Avatar
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    Default ====><====

    You sold me on the idea so heck yea I’m going to make them myself!
    *I look forward to a snap shot of your finished product

    " FleeBayers will snatchem up, shall you decide to go that route to make a few bucks!


    SteelCutter

  16. #16
    Captdave is offline Stainless
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    Default

    After being goaded a little by Steelcuter, here is the first iteration of my collet pad chuck. A couple lessons learned.

    1. Standard height jaws will not work due to the lack of clearance between the screws that hold the jaw to the chuck and the screw that holds the pad.
    2. The boring bar that I have is LH 5/8 shank VN, great for gang tool lathes but not ridged enough for anything over 1.5” so ended up with a few chatter marks.
    3. Bore the jaws at mid stroke to allow a little more room to get the pads out of the recesses.
    4. Machine the jaws at an angle to reduce weight and minimize the amount of coolant splashed around. I’ll get to it soon!





  17. #17
    SteelCutter's Avatar
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    Default ANgle clearance!

    They look great captdave!

    >And yes, the angle on the jaws is what's missing on your prototype set!

    >All you gotta do now is open yourself an e-bay account and start selling them, RAKE IN THE BUCKS! see you in e-bay!





  18. #18
    Captdave is offline Stainless
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    Talking Revision 1

    Had a little extra time so.....

    The angled jaws really do make it easier to change the pads and a lot less coolant being sprayed around.






  19. #19
    SteelCutter's Avatar
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    Default Revision 1

    Hoooooolllyyyyyyyy crap captdave "U-DA-MAN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!"

    Comments for "MASS PRODUCTION" to sell on "Flee-Bay"
    A: Keep in mind that it is easier to drill the side holes for bolting the pads to your master jaws before you machine the angle on to the jaws!
    B*: If you have them "Black Oxide Coated" (( which you probably know, is dirt cheap" )) they will sell like pan cakes!
    Would you agree that this set up is better than having to take your chuck off & mounting a "Collet Closer" on to your Mazak every time you want to run bar stock? this is as simple and fast as changing jaws!

    I will look forward to a good
    commission check from your sales



  20. #20
    Captdave is offline Stainless
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    Default

    If I could ever get caught up just a little...I might make a few more.

    Change over is a snap! Who ever came up with this idea; my hats off to him.

    Special thanks to Steel cutter for sharing the idea!!!!!!!
    Last edited by Captdave; 04-07-2009 at 11:19 AM.

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