Hello. Can anyone explain to me how to realign the tailstock on the 1990 Mazak QT-18. When I purchased the machine and got it to the shop. I went to run a job using the tailstock and noticed it pulled the parts way off center. There for I had to put in a large taper line to run the parts to size. I believe this can be adjusted but I do not know where to start. Please offer up any help that you may have on this machine for me. Thank you in advance.
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Realign tailstock on a 1990 Mazak QT-18
- Thread starter gsxr12000
- Start date
- Replies 10
- Views 5,150
wippin' boy
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2005
- Location
- il.
theres a pair of "push me / pull you" screws that move the whole rail back and forth. Off the top of my head it seems like you can moves both ends (but it all blurs into one big mazak after awhile)
real pain cause you have to loosen stuff then move stuff then the move stuff back to tighten it together.
the screws take a 6mm hex key and one of them goes through a hole in the front of the machine.
if you don't find the stuff holler back and i can maybe take a pic or somethin'
Now that i think about it, there is also an eccentric hinky dink under the quill wiper. but that will only get you about 10 thou. not near enough from your description.
carefull with that one because if you don't readjust your prox dog rod after spinning quill you will chop the head of your confirmation switches, ask me how i know
real pain cause you have to loosen stuff then move stuff then the move stuff back to tighten it together.
the screws take a 6mm hex key and one of them goes through a hole in the front of the machine.
if you don't find the stuff holler back and i can maybe take a pic or somethin'
Now that i think about it, there is also an eccentric hinky dink under the quill wiper. but that will only get you about 10 thou. not near enough from your description.
carefull with that one because if you don't readjust your prox dog rod after spinning quill you will chop the head of your confirmation switches, ask me how i know
Hello again,
I got all of the 4 bolts loose that mount the tailstck rails to the cross slide but I can't seem to find the adjustment bolts that you are talking about. Maybe a pic will help me out if you could. If you want to send to my e-mail it is [email protected] Thank you.
I got all of the 4 bolts loose that mount the tailstck rails to the cross slide but I can't seem to find the adjustment bolts that you are talking about. Maybe a pic will help me out if you could. If you want to send to my e-mail it is [email protected] Thank you.
cnctoolcat
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2006
- Location
- Abingdon, VA
Wippin's right on.
You can study your mechanical parts manual. It shows cutaway views of every assembly on the machine. The tailstock views should help you zero in on the adjusting screws.
Every QT15/18 I have seen has the tailstock pushed towards the operator. It is very easy to bump the tailbody with the turret. You have to be really careful when using the tailstock in automatic.
An easy trick to keep the turret back away from the tailbody as it approaches/retracts running a program, is to put your "MAX OD" in the very first line (the COMMON line) of the program as some big number...like 8" or so. The machine will keep the turret clear of a "cylinder" of this diameter as it approaches/retracts from the part.
Each individual program UNIT still has the actual part OD as the CPT-X. Thus the machine cuts no air.
The Catman
You can study your mechanical parts manual. It shows cutaway views of every assembly on the machine. The tailstock views should help you zero in on the adjusting screws.
Every QT15/18 I have seen has the tailstock pushed towards the operator. It is very easy to bump the tailbody with the turret. You have to be really careful when using the tailstock in automatic.
An easy trick to keep the turret back away from the tailbody as it approaches/retracts running a program, is to put your "MAX OD" in the very first line (the COMMON line) of the program as some big number...like 8" or so. The machine will keep the turret clear of a "cylinder" of this diameter as it approaches/retracts from the part.
Each individual program UNIT still has the actual part OD as the CPT-X. Thus the machine cuts no air.
The Catman
I know how to program the machine using the tailstock. I just need to find the adjustment bolts. The machine came to me in the condition it is in. I can only assume that someone at the previous owners shop must have bumped the tailstock. I was told they used the tailstock all the time, however as I explained previously I know the tailstock is off due to the large taper lines I have to write into the programs.
wippin' boy
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2005
- Location
- il.
i'll try and get a pic today
Midnight Machinist
Aluminum
- Joined
- Nov 2, 2006
- Location
- Seattle
Hi Guys,
I'm interested in this, as I'm pretty sure the .006" taper in the tailstock turned parts in my qt15 is from me learning how to run the machine. Bump!!
I'd like to bump it back... I'll be following along with the instructions!
Thanks
Grant
I'm interested in this, as I'm pretty sure the .006" taper in the tailstock turned parts in my qt15 is from me learning how to run the machine. Bump!!
I'd like to bump it back... I'll be following along with the instructions!
Thanks
Grant
wippin' boy
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2005
- Location
- il.
heres the fine tune that is under the quill wiper
you loosen #7 which allows you to rotate Quill which is eccentric, that should cover your .006
you have to reset position of the bracket that holds switch dog rod so it is straight after you have turned quill
working on another pic for coarse adjustment but first look indicates I lied
and its not a push pull thing but also an eccentric pin buried under a plug in the rail,,, as stated they all blurr together after awhile
you loosen #7 which allows you to rotate Quill which is eccentric, that should cover your .006
you have to reset position of the bracket that holds switch dog rod so it is straight after you have turned quill
working on another pic for coarse adjustment but first look indicates I lied
and its not a push pull thing but also an eccentric pin buried under a plug in the rail,,, as stated they all blurr together after awhilewippin' boy
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2005
- Location
- il.
i don't really have time to go dig into a lathe and proof it out (sorry)
but i suspect the circled items are eccentric pins that will move the 2 ends of the rails for coarse adjustment
if it don't work let me know and i'll look deeper
but i suspect the circled items are eccentric pins that will move the 2 ends of the rails for coarse adjustment
if it don't work let me know and i'll look deeper
cnctoolcat
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2006
- Location
- Abingdon, VA
Wippin', he may not have to actually move the rails...
Not sure about the QT15/18, but many Mazaks have a 2 piece tailbody. The upper half can be pushed/pulled from the lower half (which rides on the ways), to get the body back on center.
Does the OP have the mechanical parts manual??
Catman
Not sure about the QT15/18, but many Mazaks have a 2 piece tailbody. The upper half can be pushed/pulled from the lower half (which rides on the ways), to get the body back on center.
Does the OP have the mechanical parts manual??
Catman
wippin' boy
Diamond
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2005
- Location
- il.
that pic is a qt18 greg
i don't think these little ones split
your 20, old 10's,slants and the like do as you say but
8's,15's, and 18's to my knowledge move on the rails
op went quiet so he probly found it
i don't think these little ones split
your 20, old 10's,slants and the like do as you say but
8's,15's, and 18's to my knowledge move on the rails
op went quiet so he probly found it
