Tool data on t2 control qt8-sp

I have been looking for anyplace that would show how to correctly add a drill into the tool set so it actually cuts on center. The only way I've been able to get it to work is to hit the side of the drill on the back side of the tool eye and then under offset-1, X, put in the diameter as a negative number. Then I touch off the drill on the back of the tool eye to set Z. Not sure if this is the right way to do this or if there is a better way. Is it the same for a TAP? It would be nice if there was a book that had everything needed to program Mazatrol on a T2 instead of only part of the information and you have to guess at the rest. Even for a 30 year old control there isn't a lot of good info around. I have 3 books on programming the T2 plus 3 operating manuals and not one shows how to make a complete program. They all leave out little things that would be nice to know.

Sorry for the rant, just trying to get used to this Mazatrol. I'm used to G code on my mills.

I do not use the tool eye for setting X 0. I do it manually by starting the spindle and engaging the tool with the workpiece, slowly adjusting the position of the tool using your stepping handle until both flutes of the drill are cutting equally. Once you have established your centerline, use your teach button, and enter 0 in your X offset. Double check your position readout to be sure the X value is now 0 ( make sure you are in " Auto " mode when you check).It makes it easier to find spindle centerline if your drill flutes are parallel with your X axis, that is, flat, not pointing up and down. Make sense? Once you have established that value, write it down. Because of the slight differences between tool holders, that number will not be PERFECT for every turret station or holder, but it will be a very good place to start.
Keep asking questions, there are many good people here willing to help.
This answer is based on the assumption that you are referring to a static, not rotary tool.

I put an indicator on the chuck and using the step handle to get as close as possible to 0, then on the tool set menu I scroll down to X on the correct tool press teach > 0 > input...

(If you press both 1X and 10X you get 100X)

If your machine is square, your X-on-center # should never change.. Find it ONCE
then write it in sharpie on the machine, and then just enter it whenever you are using
a drill...

Once in a while you will have a tool block that will be a few thou off, so just make a note
of that.. If you have an "oops" and need to re-allign your turret and head stock, your
# might change a bit.

My # is -12.286

As a still newish Mazatrol owner/programmer (T2 here too) I agree that lots of details are left out. Stick it out though. Once you get it figured out you will like it a lot. And there is a wealth of information in old threads here on PM.

benganboll said:

I put an indicator on the chuck and using the step handle to get as close as possible to 0, then on the tool set menu I scroll down to X on the correct tool press teach > 0 > input...

(If you press both 1X and 10X you get 100X)

Click to expand...

That's exactly the way I do it as well.
It is very important to scroll down and highlight the x value for the correct tool before you hit the teach button.

Like Pete said, stick it out and you'll get used to it.
I came from g-coding mills less than a year ago and I'm in sweet, sweet love with my QT-10 and the T2 thanks to the guys around here who helped get me going.

Thanks Guys for all the help. When I got the machine it had 6 Sandvik Capto C3 tool holders and tools mounted on the turret but no standard boring bar holders. I'm making one now from the drawings in the operating manual. I definitely watch where the tool changes happen if there is a drill or boring bar in the turret. If it went to home X,Z and rotated all around it would break the tool off if it got around the back side of the turret. The chip covers are really close to the front of the turret. I'm not sure if the standard machine is like that or not. This has a sub-spindle. Thanks for the help.
Bob

Your tools are sticking too far out of the subspindle side of the turret? Is that where the problem is?

No, I don't have any tools that are that far back. The little boring bar that is in the pictures just clears the sheet metal. I have that same bar in the opposite hand. If it were in where the bar in the pictures is, it would take out the insert or cut the sheet metal or some other not fun thing. I have it set up now for X to go to a fixed position that keeps the turret out from the back wall and Z to 0. Probably not ideal but so far it's working.

Dump the Capto and go with a stock setup, unless you do a LOT of tool swapping. In addition, I guarantee that you will have problems with your current coolant setup. That plastic hose is a meltdown waiting to happen. Standard mounting will eliminate your clearance and coolant issues.