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Thread: turret out of possition

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    racen857's Avatar
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    Default turret out of possition

    So my night shift "machinist" put a part in the chuck backwards last night causing a big crash. Right now the turret is between tools and about 3 tools out of possition. I can't access the bolts in the turret to begin realinement because they are covered by the turret itsself. rather than behind the open holes. Any thoughts on how I begin with this process. As a side note I have a (turret sensor malfuction 221) alarm I can't rid of.

    turning tool, 50% rapids into moving part with a square casting 3 inches accros the flats and 1 inch sticking out too far...............
    ready to go do this

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    Justin_Terry is offline Cast Iron
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    first off, what machine and control is this on? does the turret rotate when commanded?

    Justin

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    good question,...
    It is a mazak quickturn nexus 250-II-msy .

    and no the turret does not index when comanded

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    working on trying to reset the turret home possition using the procedure in the mattinance manual.


    after trying I can not try to reset the turre home position untill I get rid of the alarm 221 turret position sensor malfunction

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    Justin_Terry is offline Cast Iron
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    Call Mitsubishi and gets the procedure for setting home using the MRJ. Does the machine have 640 control or matrix? Does the 221 alarm go away if you unclamp turret and push reset?

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    dinosaur is offline Cast Iron
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    The alarm 221 is the least of your worries. There is a proximity switch that tells the control if the turret is clamped. The PLC has a timer that looks for this confirmation signal within a certain period of time. When it does not see this signal, then the alarm is displayed. If the turret is that far out of position, then I would suspect that the bolts that hold on at least one of the curvic couplings have been sheared. I don't think that you will be able to avoid removing the turret.

    First you will have to remove the drive for the live tooling. Find the pulley in the back of the turret that is driven by a toothed belt. That is your live tool drive. You remove that from the back and then the part that engages the live tooling is removed from the front. There will be an air line as well as cable for two proximity switches and probably two lubrication lines. All that goes out the front of the turret after you remove the cover.

    There is also a possibility that the drive train has been damaged. The motor revolves the turret through some gears. The motor shaft itself has gear teeth machined into it and these teeth could possibly have been sheared as well. It is never a good thing when a turret has been crashed. I would expect a good maintenance tech would take at least 8 hours to fix it if it does not require any parts. I do not recommend trying to index the turret at this point. You may only cause more harm.
    IronReb likes this.

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    IronReb is offline Hot Rolled
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    Hate to say it,but Dino is right..you might as well bend over and bare it while you call the man.From what you are saying your machine has some serious issues.
    I admit I know nothing of Mazak,but from dealing with HAAS and a turret issue it is much much more involved than just twisting some bolts.

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    MattG is offline Plastic
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    Quote Originally Posted by dinosaur View Post
    First you will have to remove the drive for the live tooling. Find the pulley in the back of the turret that is driven by a toothed belt. That is your live tool drive. You remove that from the back and then the part that engages the live tooling is removed from the front. There will be an air line as well as cable for two proximity switches and probably two lubrication lines. All that goes out the front of the turret after you remove the cover.
    its small comfort, but you dont have to remove the driveshaft to remove the mill head - just the 4 bolts and sensors/airlines under the turret cover. we have a slide hammer made up that bolts on to the face of the millhead using its cover bolt holes, since ours is quite a tight fit in its bore. same machine.

    good luck, take some pictures if you have time

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    wippin' boy is offline Diamond
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    don't know about a nexus
    but if was t-plus vintage you would have to get in the back of that turret and loosen the pinch couple holding the index gear to the main turret shaft, this would let the whole thing spin to where you need it to be.
    this is a pretty big wreck. I would call mazak and have them explain what to do 'cause there is gonna be alot of sht has to be put right.
    you can do it and on these newer machines they have print outs they can send you on a lot of this stuff

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    Justin_Terry is offline Cast Iron
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    Nexus is just four bolts to remove the mill head. If no slide hammer pull a tool holder and you can get a pry bar under the head to get it out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Justin_Terry View Post
    Call Mitsubishi and gets the procedure for setting home using the MRJ. Does the machine have 640 control or matrix? Does the 221 alarm go away if you unclamp turret and push reset?
    It;s a matrix. I got around the alarm temparaly by putting a piece of shim stock in front of it. The index pin won't go back in place to trigger the prox switch. I did this long enough to get the turret back to it's proper tool posititon, or very close.

    I've got most everything back into possition but the turret still wont index, the index pin isn't working right so I belive there must be internal damage.

    Mazak is on call for monday or tuesday. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

    Thanks for all the help guys. I'll keep you posted on the outcome. sorry about the pics i already had some much apart they just wouldn't do any justice now.

    Time to get everything cleaned up and ready to work on it on monday or tuesday.

    Then onto the weekend, HELLO USAC on saterdaynight at the Port Royal speedway Port Royal Speedway

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    zak300sy is offline Aluminum
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    Turn the sucker off & move the turret back to an actual position then power it up. This will usually get you to a pos. where ther turret will clamp. They you've got to go thru the procedure to reset the turret home pos. There MAY be enough slack in the turret bolts to get it back on center. But, since this is a non-lifting style turret you probably will have to remove the turret & keep digging till you get to the taper pins waaay down in the bottom. Couple of days of work. Lotta dissasembly from the front + even more in the back.

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    hitandmiss is offline Stainless
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    If the pins are badly bent, pull the curvec with the pins still in, cut them off nearly flush and tap out. Pulling badly bent pins while still assembled only increases the damage around the pin holes. The area around the pin holes and also the screw holes will be raised up and need to be stoned off. I would also replace all clamping bolts, since they will be bent and the heads won't be square with the threads.

    Bill

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    Well got the machine running this morning only to find collant leaking from behind the turret. Time for round 2??? Guessing some o-rings in the turret assembly got messed up. Man this guy is really costing us some money......

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    dinosaur is offline Cast Iron
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    The first thing you should do is to remove the black manifold on the front of the turret. This is where the coolant is brought to the turret as well as the hydraulic pressure for clamping and un-clamping. The coolant comes out of a plunger and it has a urethane seal that goes against the back of the turret. This is most likely where it is leaking. Sometimes that plunger does not move because the O-rings inside are ruined due to small metal particles from the coolant tank. It could also be the O-rings on the manifold that are bad. This manifold is also the first place to check if you have hydraulic oil and coolant mixing together.

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    handscrape is offline Aluminum
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    I feel your pain,
    I hope whoever crashed it feels bad or apologised at least.
    I have had the same thing happen and then have the operator smile or laugh at me
    Wasn't too impressed to say the least.

    Good luck with ur fix!

    h.s.

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    I have had the same thing happen and then have the operator smile or laugh at me
    I would have had his butt laughing all the way out the door.

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    Trust me I recomened to my higher-ups not to hire this guy when his 90 day evaluation time came up. They thought I was being mean and picking him for telling them he was NOT worth hireing. So far I have been keeping track of his performance record atleast 1 major quality issue every month. resulting in either fixing parts or starting over with the job. twice now he has put a part in the chuck backwards, this time causeing many $$$$$$ in lost time.

    And no he has not said one word about being sorry. here is an example of his attitude. We did a taper test cut on the machine .002 taper in 6 inches his quote " we can work with that, it's not too bad".

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    racen857's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dinosaur View Post
    The first thing you should do is to remove the black manifold on the front of the turret. This is where the coolant is brought to the turret as well as the hydraulic pressure for clamping and un-clamping. The coolant comes out of a plunger and it has a urethane seal that goes against the back of the turret. This is most likely where it is leaking. Sometimes that plunger does not move because the O-rings inside are ruined due to small metal particles from the coolant tank. It could also be the O-rings on the manifold that are bad. This manifold is also the first place to check if you have hydraulic oil and coolant mixing together.
    So far I have not noticed collant and hydraulic oil mixing, Thank goodness

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    MattG is offline Plastic
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    I now have the same problem after night shift crashed into chuck 2 with the OD roughing tool. broke the tool holder right off the turret, and now the turret bolt holes are half a hole off. How deep did you have to go to get it back functioning? remove the turret? it sounds like it. Did you index the turret after tricking the turret sensor?

    same machine, nexus 250-II msy

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