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Any way to "fix" mitutoyo digital caliper & starret caliper?

greenbuggy

Stainless
Joined
Oct 6, 2005
Location
Firestone, CO
I've been having some bad luck lately with calipers...

I'm a glorified Amateur with some tools, so I don't use this machining stuff day in and day out, but it really grinds my gears when I reach for a tool only to find it needs to be messed with in order to function correctly. I try to take care of my stuff, keep it clean, don't drop it (or drop things on it) especially the measuring stuff.

First I bought a used Starrett 120 6" caliper off ebay about a year ago, lately I've been noticing that it skips at non-regular intervals. Sometimes a full swing from 0-6"-0 will return me to 0, more often than not it'll be .05" or more negative or positive of zero. I can see the rack when I open the jaws fully and there don't appear to be any chips or gunk stuck in the rack, but I'm afraid to pull everything apart and lose some tiny pieces. Does anybody repair these things, or am I stuck with a caliper I can't trust?

Next, doing some metric work I decided that I should probably own a caliper that is A) bigger than the Starrett, B) can read out in metric and C) is Digital. Found a NIB Mitutoyo 8" MyCal Lite on ebay, paid $50 for it, have used it a few times and just for curiousity's sake, measured it against my standards for my recently acquired micrometers (also Mitutoyo). Discovered on the 1" and 2" standards that I'm .003" short of 1" and .005" short of 2", even after re-zeroing. I'm definitely not pressing hard enough on them to be bending the beam or jaws that much.

Is there any repair options for either these?

If not, what should I buy for a good general-use caliper that isn't going to crap out right away and will make reasonably honest, repeatable measurements? I thought Mitutoyo was a good brand and I hate to throw even more money at them to get something descent, but I don't want to have to remember which piece of measuring equipment is off by which amount every time I use it either...
 
The Starrett dial caliper may have been sold because it had a worn rack and gear? A professional repair is possible, but likely more than you paid for the caliper. You can probably find DIY repair instructions on the Web -- might be something as simple as a tensioner for the head. Personally, I wouldn't spend much to repair or replace this. You can check "Long Island Indicator" for their impression of this caliper, spare parts, etc.

Is your Mitutoyo made in China? I'm surprised it's off .005" but it turns out that's now the actual accuracy spec on their cheapest (MyCal-Lite) units:

http://www.mitutoyo.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/1856_MyCalLite.pdf

The read speed might also be a problem if you try to adjust to size too quickly?

For the price of both used calipers, I suspect you might have gotten one of the standard (Made in Japan, hardened stainless) Mitutoyo models and find that it holds .001" over the entire range. Generally speaking, Mitutoyo makes excellent digital calipers. I can't ever recall hearing of one off .005" -- but then I can't recall of a new 0-8" Mitutoyo selling for $50. My guess is this is one of those cases where you simply and sadly didn't get a bargain on either Ebay purchase?

I'd hold out for a better Mitutoyo for metalwork and use the MyCal for woodworking, sorting fasteners, and other cases where .005" is all the accuracy it needs. If it repeats at a given measurement, you may also be able to use it as a comparator for closer fits.
 
calipers

I've been having some bad luck lately with calipers...

I'm a glorified Amateur with some tools, so I don't use this machining stuff day in and day out, but it really grinds my gears when I reach for a tool only to find it needs to be messed with in order to function correctly. I try to take care of my stuff, keep it clean, don't drop it (or drop things on it) especially the measuring stuff.

First I bought a used Starrett 120 6" caliper off ebay about a year ago, lately I've been noticing that it skips at non-regular intervals. Sometimes a full swing from 0-6"-0 will return me to 0, more often than not it'll be .05" or more negative or positive of zero. I can see the rack when I open the jaws fully and there don't appear to be any chips or gunk stuck in the rack, but I'm afraid to pull everything apart and lose some tiny pieces. Does anybody repair these things, or am I stuck with a caliper I can't trust?

Next, doing some metric work I decided that I should probably own a caliper that is A) bigger than the Starrett, B) can read out in metric and C) is Digital. Found a NIB Mitutoyo 8" MyCal Lite on ebay, paid $50 for it, have used it a few times and just for curiousity's sake, measured it against my standards for my recently acquired micrometers (also Mitutoyo). Discovered on the 1" and 2" standards that I'm .003" short of 1" and .005" short of 2", even after re-zeroing. I'm definitely not pressing hard enough on them to be bending the beam or jaws that much.

Is there any repair options for either these?

If not, what should I buy for a good general-use caliper that isn't going to crap out right away and will make reasonably honest, repeatable measurements? I thought Mitutoyo was a good brand and I hate to throw even more money at them to get something descent, but I don't want to have to remember which piece of measuring equipment is off by which amount every time I use it either...
.
1) older Starrett caliper design had exposed gear rack, most newer calipers have the gear rack covered which lowers chance of chips getting in and causing a jump of a gear tooth
2) old worn calipers can easily zero when closed but because jaws are worn the jaw tips have a gap when caliper closed so even zeroed when closed you can read a gage block 0.005" off if measuring at worn jaw tips
3) coolant on digital caliper scales will cause reading to jump all over the place. digital calipers need to be clean and dry to work best.
4) sounds like you need to buy a cheap but new digital caliper at a HF store. Make sure it works ok before you leave store parking lot. They get bad batches of calipers occasionally but most work ok.
....... i would not buy used measuring tools. what do you think professionals do when their old tools are too worn to be trusted. they sell them of course
 
I'm just piling on at this point, but the only way to "fix" what you've got is to buy better quality tools in the first place. I just got my latest Mits 6" calipers #500-752-10. Are they expensive? Yes. Do they work better than anything you can buy for $50? Better by many miles. Slapped a battery in this tool and measured several random gauge pins and 1", 2", 4" and 6" gauge blocks with all measuring styles (OD, ID and both depth arrangements) and the worst error was .0005" off on ONE measurement. If you want the same performance, you have to pony up $180. Simple as that.
 
If all else fails, you can see a good "hands on" method for adjustment in the video that rustytool has a link to in the thread "Adjusting Calipers". :)
 
Whether you can see it or not, there's likely something stuck in the rack or pinion. I love the 120 and have several, but the open rack is an accident waiting to happen. You just have to keep chips far away from the thing. They're not hard to take apart and clean.
 
You can send the MyCal Lite into Mitutoyo America Corp. Aurora Repair/Service for evaulation. You may havea discontinued model??? Current part number is 700-123-10 (you can confirm by checking the backside of your caliper). They will contact you and let you know if they can service the readout or not (Brand New are on Promotion at $139.20 list).... Repair Service | Mitutoyo America CorporationMitutoyo America Corporation

Mine is that "current" part number. While I got it for $50 it was NIB (New In Box) unopened. I'm just wondering if I'm better off sending it in to mitutoyo or buying a better non-lite version. I don't have coolant to contend with at this point.
 
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i prefer cheap but new digital calipers. after a year or 2 i buy a new one. this way if i measure a drill bit or other harder item i do not have to worry about the jaw wear.
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cheap calipers are rarely ip67. they work ok just do not like coolant dripping on them.

Cheap digital calipers are NEVER IP67 ;)
 
{solicitation removed - TRL}

I have had the same style, 8", at work for probably 3 years of daily use with hard (58-64 Rc) steel and carbide with no issue or signs of wear.
 
For the 25 years I was QC manager (at various Companies) almost all measuring equipment was purchased through me.

I've bought many dial calipers but after the arrival of digital on the scene I prefered vernier and digital as the two preferences. If someone insisted on wanting a dial then they got one but I always mentioned to them to be extra careful as they were sensitive to dust and grime. Once "faulty" they were a PITA to correct.

To me, and this is a personal opinion, the dial caliper was an evolutionary stage between vernier and digital. That they continue to be made and sold shows that there are those that still like them and I have no problem with that as long as no one tells me I must use them :)

The only two caliper types I own and use frequently are vernier and digital. The verniers will probably last forever while which digitals I use depends on what quality they are for what I want to measure. I have both cheap and expensive and use them accordingly.

I have a 100mm (4") vernier caliper (VIS and made in Poland) in a stiff leather pouch that I frequently have in my pocket when I visit a hardware store :) I usually get a smile and an approving nod when I whip it out to measure something.

Gordon
 
I'm with Gordon on this one, go digital, vernier or go home. Dials are not good for calipers, I like them fine on indicators. And if I go digital, it will usually be Mitutoyo, never Starrett. Maybe something Swiss, but the guys at Mitutoyo know what they're doing.

I recently cleaned up a Starrett 120 that had a rough spot in the rack, and a wonky pointing needle. I took the dial assembly off (4 screws) and removed the rack to clean it. Worked better afterwards, but was unable to get the needle exactly where I wanted.
 
In reference to the OP's accuracy issue on the digital Mits, check and readjust the gib screws. If the screws loosen up (and they will over time) the readings will show more inconsistancy. Lightly tighten them, than back them off till the slide just moves smoothly. After the gib is adjusted, measure a pin diameter in several different positions along the jaws to see if the readings repeat, and the jaws are parallel. If not, time for a new pair.
 
The MyCal Lite series are somewhat misleadingly marketed. They state .001" resolution but if you read the fine print, the accuracy is .005" (not clear if this is ±.005" or ±.0025".) See the Mitutoyo online catalog page for this series.

So a measurement that is .003" different from a standard does not surprise me. The MyCal-Lite series is not suitable for machinist use in my opinion.
 
The MyCal Lite series are somewhat misleadingly marketed.
They state .001" resolution but if you read the fine print, the accuracy is .005"
I don't think that's misleading in any way.

All (most) digital measurement systems have resolution that is finer than their accuracy.
This is partly due to the inherent variability of the last digit in any digital display system.

- Leigh
 
The MyCal Lite series are somewhat misleadingly marketed. They state .001" resolution but if you read the fine print, the accuracy is .005" (not clear if this is ±.005" or ±.0025".) See the Mitutoyo online catalog page for this series.

So a measurement that is .003" different from a standard does not surprise me. The MyCal-Lite series is not suitable for machinist use in my opinion.

These caliper types are not intended for professional users unless it just for a quick check on dimensions before machining and similar situations.

MyCal-Lite Series 700-Digital for DIY

The inch to metric "conversion" though does look a bit odd as it would seem to indicate much better accuracy in inches than in mm.

Gordon
 
Send your calipers to a repair house and you will find out if you need to worry about there reliability. It sounds like your Starrett #120 has run over a chip and lost its spring tension which leaves it to not repeat. The Mti Digimatic readouts are reliable and either work or don't. The adjustment of the gib might solve your problem there or the jaws might need Lapped back to parallel. A new #120 cost $200 so a $50.00 repair still puts you way ahead. The Mti 8" Digimatic repair would be around $80.00 / $275.00 new. Good Luck
 








 
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