Thread: Cleaning/ Servicing Etalon Ingages 531B

I have a set of Ingages from .400 thru 4.0 inches now. The larger ones have some issues retracting the anvils, and the friction thimble seems tight. I contacted Rene at Long Island Indicator Service concerning these gages, and although their site says they service and repair these, he sounded apprehensive about disassembling them. I am too much of a puss to try it!

Anyone know of a qualified servicer for these Swiss gems?

One of mine was like that. I applied some very light oil to the arms and worked them back and forth. They cleared right up.

Sewing machine oil is quite good for this type of application.

If you do disassemble it (which I do not recommend) note that the arms are numbered and must go back whence they came.

- Leigh

I soaked them in Benzene for days, oiled the $#!t out of them with Starrett Instrument oil, and they are still sticky. The only disassembly I performed was the friction thimble sub assy. I oiled that thoroughly, but some are still very tight.

Then I would recommend sending it to LII. Sounds like it's been dropped.

- Leigh

I see no evidence of damage. My smaller range set is virtually brand new. Those gages have much less resistance in the friction-thimbles than the larger (used) ones do.

Originally Posted by aerodark

I see no evidence of damage.

But you feel evidence of damage.

- Leigh

What size gage(s) do you have? Is the friction thimble hard to turn (not about to try and estimate torque spec!)?

I think I have all of them from 0.188" through 6". They all work smoothly and feel the same, like a micrometer.

One is a B&S rather than Etalon, but both brands are made by the same company to the same specs, so they're really the same.

- Leigh

I didn't know they made them over four inches.

My NOS small set requires much more torque than my Etalon outside micrometers.

The larger sizes are hard to find ($$$), and may no longer be in production. LII only shows them through 4".

If there's any difference in torque for mine, it would be that the larger ones are slightly easier to adjust due to the larger thimble.

- Leigh

Thanks, Leigh. It may be time to call Rene Meyer back. Getting him on the phone is tricky business.

On the larger units, there are cylinders 1 behind each anvil, they are spring loaded so be careful when disassembling, the anvils can be free and clear but if these cylinders are coated in gummed oil the anvils will never retract smoothly. To clean: extend the anvils fully and secure each so they cant retract. Masking tape will do, unscrew the head assy taking note on the plunger/cone position (used to depress anvils), it will be self explanetory on which way its positioned once you see it. Now that you have the open head remove the tape from one anvil holding your finger over the top and slowly release it to expose the cylinder and remove it with spring, you will find it gummed up and sticky, using denatured alcohol clean the anvil and cylinder and corresponding bores, you can clean the spring with WD-40 then follow up with alcohol or spray brake cleaner, An ultrasonic cleaner with simple green solution would be ideal but lacking that the above method will be fine. Wrap a lint free cloth around a precision screwdriver or the like to clean the cylinder bore. When all is squeaky clean LIGHTLY lube with starrett oil or food grade mineral oil (butcher block) apply oil to lint free cloth and coat the cylinder, again a very light coat is all thats needed. Repeat with the remaining anvils. Re-assy. Getting the spring and cylinder back in the bore can be a little tricky you will use the pin on the anvil to guide it back into it bore and secure with tape again. There are other ways to secure them like a rubber band, use whatever works without damaging the surface finish, any blemish on the anvil will cause it to not run smoothly and stick upon re-assy. With all 3 anvils secured place cone and screw head assy back on turning mic head all the way down to keep anvils depressed. After tape removal make sure there is no residue by wiping with a wd40 coated lint free cloth. But if your uneasy about this ...call Rene
Note: When re-assembling springs and cylinders its best to do it inside a bag because they can go flying

Originally Posted by aerodark

Would you be interested in doing this work? It sounds like you know EXACTLY what to do.

Please take this to PM.

- Leigh

I had Ed ( precrepair) service the first one of my Ingages. Very quick turn time, and priced about half of the minimum quote from LII. I am very pleased with his service and he will be getting more of my cleaning, repair business on my other Ingages. Thanks Ed.