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Dental Wax

ChuckR

Plastic
Joined
Jun 21, 2017
I'm just curious if anyone still uses dental wax to take impressions on inside radius or chamfers? Otherwise what do people use? I have dabbled in using the blue Repro-Rubber, but sometimes that's a bit difficult to get into small spaces.
 
I'm just curious if anyone still uses dental wax to take impressions on inside radius or chamfers? Otherwise what do people use? I have dabbled in using the blue Repro-Rubber, but sometimes that's a bit difficult to get into small spaces.

1. What to you are "small spaces"?

2. What do you use to make chamfers and radii?

3. Do you make singles or several?

A sketch or drawing of what you are dealing with would help. Doing what you are doing would suggest you have a microscope or projector.
 
plastikdreams, how do you remove the Silly Putty without distorting the heck out of it? Do you freeze it with canned air blast or something? The point of this exercise is to get something you can measure or compare to a gage, presumably with some degree of accuracy, and I've never been able to pull or peel Silly Putty off anything without at least a 5-10% stretch or distortion.
 
I have used a 2 part auto body filler Kromate (I believe) it hardens in 15 minutes.
I just hit the edges on the side of a grinding wheel so it shows up in a comparator. use a mold release or even penetrating oil so it wont stick .

It also works well when you kill your only setup part I just build up that surface and I have a go at it again.

But I suppose JB weld would work also.
 
plastikdreams, how do you remove the Silly Putty without distorting the heck out of it? Do you freeze it with canned air blast or something? The point of this exercise is to get something you can measure or compare to a gage, presumably with some degree of accuracy, and I've never been able to pull or peel Silly Putty off anything without at least a 5-10% stretch or distortion.

It doesn't stick and holds it's shape if you are not a gorilla with it :). I used it all the time when finishing mold cavities. When we had to test large areas or full cavities we used 2 part epoxy.

You could melt wax into there but why, another option is dental amalgum. Either way you have to dam it or it's gonna make a mess.
 
This is more of a general inquiry for checking inside chamfers and radii. I do have both an optical compairator and an OGP Smartscope. I am just looking for other alternatives to cutting parts in half to check the radius or chamfer at the bottom of an inside bore. When I say "smaller spaces", I am usually dealing with bores smaller that .250".
 
This is more of a general inquiry for checking inside chamfers and radii. I do have both an optical compairator and an OGP Smartscope. I am just looking for other alternatives to cutting parts in half to check the radius or chamfer at the bottom of an inside bore. When I say "smaller spaces", I am usually dealing with bores smaller that .250".

The reason I also asked about quantity is that it might be easiest just to make a drill or tool with the correct chamfer/radius as that'd be easy to check.
 
ChuckR --

In times past, plaster was commonly used, and it works pretty darn well as long as it's not cast into undercuts. Plasters and their kissing-cousins, gypsum cements, expand when setting. So-called Tooling Plasters such as Hydrocal B-11 have nearly-negligible expansion (from old memory, in the neighborhood of 1/2 thousandth of an inch per inch of thickness), and hardware-store Plaster of Paris expands quite a bit more, but has the advantage of being readily available in small packages.

Changing the plaster:water ratio does change the expansion ratio, but some situations require mixing to an almost-putty consistency while others require a fluid mix.

A couple of additional thoughts: 1. The old-timers often used sisal or excelsior batting dipped in pancake-batter-consistency plaster to cover large areas quickly. The batting also reinforced the plaster, making the cured cast a lot easier to handle. Scotch-Brite-type non-woven fiber -- including floor-buffer pads -- will serve a similar purpose, and is a lot easier to find in today's world. 2. A Zip-Lock-type plastic bag partially filled with plaster can often be used as a "liquid shim" to stabilize a large casting or weldment that doesn't want to bear evenly on a machine table or floor.

John
 
The old-timers often used sisal or excelsior batting dipped in pancake-batter-consistency plaster to cover large areas quickly. The batting also reinforced the plaster, making the cured cast a lot easier to handle. Scotch-Brite-type non-woven fiber -- including floor-buffer pads -- will serve a similar purpose, and is a lot easier to find in today's world.
You can still find coarse batting, or equally good, coarse webbing, at fabric stores with upholstery supplies. Probably fallen out of mill supply catalogs, but still current in the furniture business.
 
Do you need a Practitioner licence to order this though? I've looked at several different products similar to this, but all the other sites said they require a licence to order this.

Not that I was aware of. One of our inspectors ordered a bunch a ways back, I don't know what he went through to get it. Fortunately, you can reuse it over and over, so one stick will last for years. Let me see if I can find out.
 
Do you need a Practitioner licence to order this though? I've looked at several different products similar to this, but all the other sites said they require a licence to order this.

looks like you're right. I'll have to find out how he got it. Maybe he just lied to them.
 








 
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