Gauge block oil choices?

pcm81 · Jan 25, 2017

Starrett recommends their M1 oil for steel gauge block maintenance. Will there be a noticeable difference on Grade B blocks if I use WD 40 instead? Applied by swiping on a lint free cloth after cleaning with isopropyl alcohol or mineral spirits, not by spraying directly on the block. Any other oil alternatives to Starrett M1 to consider?

Thanks ahead

Larry Dickman · Jan 25, 2017

Why? Are you allergic to M1?

pcm81 · Jan 25, 2017

Mostly academic interest.

"Academically" speaking it should all boil down to thickness of the oil plus its corrosive / corrosion preventive characteristics. Don't know enough about M1 to make an intelligent comparison to other oils...

The real Leigh · Jan 25, 2017

pcm81 said:
Will there be a noticeable difference on Grade B blocks if I use WD 40 instead?

WD40 is not oil, and yes there would likely be a resulting error in length.

WD40 is paraffin wax in a solvent carrier.
After the solvent evaporates, the paraffin is left as a thin film.

This would likely make it impossible to wring the blocks, since the wringing surfaces are supposed to be wiped free of oil with a rag.

Realize that the true nature of "wringing" adhesion is not well understood, not even by NIST.

- Leigh

John Garner · Jan 25, 2017

pcm81 --

In the early days of MSDSs, the MSDS for M1 showed that it was fundamentally petrolatum (aka petroleum jelly, or if you're British, vaseline, which, when spelled with an upper-case V is a legally protected tradename in the US) dissolved in a petroleum solvent.

That blend is pretty easy (and cheap) to "homebrew", and almost as easy to tweak the blend -- add a bit of paraffin wax to the mix if you want a firmer film of left behind when the solvent evaporates, add a bit of light petroleum-based oil if you want a softer film left behind.

A eight-inch-or-so square of new chamois, soaked in the petrolatum and mineral spirits mixture, and stored in a small jar, makes a great applicator.

John

The real Leigh · Jan 25, 2017

John Garner said:
add a bit of paraffin wax to the mix if you want a firmer film of left behind when the solvent evaporates, add a bit of light petroleum-based oil if you want a softer film left behind.

No such film is included in the calibrated length of a gage block.

The value on an NIST cert does include the thickness of one wringing film, but that's fine machine oil, and extremely thin (microinches).

I suggest downloading a copy of the Gauge Block Handbook from NIST.
(Yes, the title is spelled correctly.) National Institute of Standards and Technology | NIST

There's an awful lot of mis-information on the intrumnet.

- Leigh

pcm81 · Jan 25, 2017

Thank you all for the wealth of information provided here. I have looked through the NIST Gauge Block book and am aware of the gauge blocks being manufactured by thickness of the film smaller than indicated dimension, however I was not able to confirm as to proper thickness of the oil to be used or if Starrett M1 is of proper thickness.

I understand that it is relatively easy to home-brew M1 (petroleum jelly plus petroleum solvent) however dealing with calibrated gauge blocks I doubt I can perfectly reproduce the "correct" thickness as intended by NIST.

On a side note, does anyone know off top of their head if "additional thickness of oil film" is applicable to only steel blocks or also ceramic blocks? I have couple Grade 00 Mitutoyo cera blocks (yes, i am crazy), which I use as my master reference and so far I did not oil them.

Thanks ahead

PeteM · Jan 25, 2017

It is expected that the oil used to prevent rust on gage blocks will be removed prior to use -- and replaced after. This eliminates much of Leigh's concern.

The real Leigh · Jan 25, 2017

PeteM said:
It is expected that the oil used to prevent rust on gage blocks will be removed prior to use -- and replaced after. This eliminates much of Leigh's concern.

As I said above, the wringing film thickness is a few millionths of an inch.

One film thickness is included in the certified length of the block.

- Leigh

sfriedberg · Jan 25, 2017

To get back to the original specific question, WD40 is notorious for leaving (and/or attracting) surface residues. So not a good choice for gage blocks, even if you do intend to remove the film before use.

I don't consider my shop extravagant in its use of exotic lubricants, but I've got at least four better choices in stock than WD40 (which does have a place in my shop), not counting the lanolin-based stuff I use which is actually recommended for the purpose. Just buy "the right thing". If you are buying a set of gage blocks (or even just responsible for them), the cost of a can of M1 (or other recommended oil/grease) is totally in the weeds.

awander · Jan 25, 2017

Since M1 "dries out", I wouldn't have ever thought to use it on gage blocks.

I guess Starrett must know their stuff, though....

pcm81 · Jan 25, 2017

Thanks all for the valuable input, I believe it has answered most of my concerns. I had a confusion between wringing film thickness (included in gauge block calibration thickness) and oil film thickness. For some reason I thought that gauge blocks are expected to have certain oil film thickness prior to use, rather than being completely clean by the use on mineral spirits. I guess something like M1 is just an easier to clean oil than something like WD40 would be, because of its chemistry.

dkmc · Jan 25, 2017

Oil?
Why not synthetic grease?

John Garner · Jan 25, 2017

Leigh --

You're reading, and then refuting, quite a bit more into my post #5 above than what I wrote, and your response to PeteM's post #8 doesn't refute anything he wrote.

John

The real Leigh · Jan 26, 2017

John Garner said:
Leigh --

You're reading, and then refuting, quite a bit more into my post #5 above than what I wrote, and your response to PeteM's post #8 doesn't refute anything he wrote.

John

Read the Gauge Block Handbook.

It has no provisions for "homemade" lubricants.

- Leigh

Gordon B. Clarke · Jan 27, 2017

The real Leigh said:
Read the Gauge Block Handbook.

It has no provisions for "homemade" lubricants.

- Leigh

Probably, in fact certainly not but the factual correctness of handbooks in my experience often depend very much on who the author is or authors are.

Not trying to start a discussion here but many "home made" solutions have proven to be excellent and almost always cheaper.

machtool · Jan 27, 2017

Gordon B. Clarke said:
Probably, in fact certainly not but the factual correctness of handbooks in my experience often depend very much on who the author is or authors are.

NIST are like that, rat pack of blokes with a warm tape measure.

Just who do you figure wrote the "Gauge Block Handbook"?

Gordon B. Clarke said:
Probably, in fact certainly not but the factual correctness of handbooks in my experience often depend very much on who the author is or authors are

. That's about what I'd expect regarding factual correctness of your Chinese knock off calliper Gizmo's

What a fucking worm. Couldn't even recognise or respect a NIST document.

The real Leigh · Jan 27, 2017

Gordon B. Clarke said:
Probably, in fact certainly not but the factual correctness of handbooks in my experience often depend very much on who the author is or authors are.

Gordon,

Your ego is showing.

Your expertise definitely DOES NOT exceed that of NIST, even though you think you're a deity.

What a jerk.

- Leigh

John Garner · Jan 27, 2017

Leigh --

Persuasive, that name-calling.

Oh, two more things: 1. I never suggested using petrolatum, whether with or without mineral spirits and / or paraffin wax added, as a lubricant, I suggested it as a preservative. 2. The NIST Gauge Block Handbook doesn't appear to actually mention homebrew / homemade lubricants or preservatives, either pro or con.

John

sable · Jan 27, 2017

Definitely don't use WD40 ,it takes in moisture and corrodes gauging faces, either that or it washes away any protective layer and the atmosphere causes the corrosion ,whatever you end up with rusty slips ,don't ask me how I know.

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