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How Good Are Noga Style Indicator Stands?

LKeithR

Stainless
Joined
Sep 1, 2011
Location
Langley, B.C.
I have a couple Noga style indicator stands--both are imports, one is an Insize and the other an even cheaper import
acquired from Princess Auto. Build quality of both is really quite good and I love the convenience of how they work
but when I use them both seem to be just a bit "springy", for want of a better term. And I've noticed that when you
tighten them up you can see a few thou of "drift" on the dial before they stabilize--to keep them from moving you
really have to tighten them.

I'm thinking seriously of buying a couple of the genuine Noga stands but before I spend the money I'm curious to see
what others think of them. Are they really worth the extra money? Or if I want real rigidity should I just go back to a
regular old two arm style holder?
 
Or if I want real rigidity should I just go back to a
regular old two arm style holder?

"Real rigidity" is largely absent in indicator holders not because we would not LOVE to "just ALWAYS have that", but because when one triangulates with rods or such to approach it, there is a seriously increased risk of trashing the DI.

Mostly, one "settles" for stable enough for this task and not a bit better than that, diddley-farts about the edges of it, bites tongue, takes more readings, moves on.

You have noticed the Noga's strengths. And weaknesses. DIY would probably produce a unit or "system of" better suited to serve your specific needs.

I've tended to lay-by PAIRS of various makes of holders and hardware, then DIY "by robbery and cross-fartle ization" rather than any sort of brilliance or clever crafting of anything "new".

Old challenge. Much useful "stuff" out there. Lazy, Iyam. Just allocate a bigger "Hell box" and fill it with "cool stuff", "neat s**t" and more of it.

2CW
 
The stiffness of a good quality articulating arm and that of a good two beam arm is about comparable. Cheap articulating arms, including the cheaper nogas, do tend to have a fair amount of spring when clamped up. I have a top of the range Noga arm (I forget the model number) that is pretty solid when clamped, but there are other things I don't like about it, mainly the fine adjuster isn't great for sensitive small adjustments. The fine adjuster on my MpTec is much nicer in both use and stiffness, and the arm itself has significantly less spring when clamped.

If you want a high quality articulating arm forget about Noga and get a MpTec or Fisso.

Rather than go searching for them again I'll link a previous post of mine where I linked them both.
 
The stiffness of a good quality articulating arm and that of a good two beam arm is about comparable. Cheap articulating arms, including the cheaper nogas, do tend to have a fair amount of spring when clamped up. I have a top of the range Noga arm (I forget the model number) that is pretty solid when clamped, but there are other things I don't like about it, mainly the fine adjuster isn't great for sensitive small adjustments. The fine adjuster on my MpTec is much nicer in both use and stiffness, and the arm itself has significantly less spring when clamped.

If you want a high quality articulating arm forget about Noga and get a MpTec or Fisso.

Rather than go searching for them again I'll link a previous post of mine where I linked them both.

^^^^This. I find the Nogas to be kind of cheap compared to better units. I had a no-name copy that was better than a Noga but haven't seen any more since the proliferation of chinese copies. If you can use a short 'mini' noga style arm they are a bit more rigid in spite of their smaller size, just because they are shorter.
^
 
I haven't used the other brands mentioned, but IMO the Noga is a world apart from the usual import stuff. I finally paid the price and have been very happy. Disclaimer: I'm not a professional.
 
I have both the Noga and a clone. The import looks nice enough. The Noga looks about the same, but holds better.

As others have said, the longer the lever arm the easier it is for the joint to move. You need a series increase in arm and joint size (and Noga does make a decent version) for long reach. The Fisso is nice, but the price chain seems to be 1x for the clone, 2x for the genuine Noga, 4x for the Fisso.

For surface plate use, Brown and Sharpe made a massive indicator system that's pretty rigid and often available at reasonable cost used. These came with a t-slotted base and a stand and arm, usually in a metal box. Can't remember if B&S #731 is the smaller or larger size of the two versions they made.
 
I just bought one of the bottom adjust Nogas and really like it. Quality looks very good for the price. It locks SOLID.
 
I still have my imports in case anybody ever asks to borrow a base, but my noga base with an interapid indicator is the only combination I use for all general purpose precision indicating. Makes everything faster and less frustrating, IMHO the increase in confidence that I am indicating true is worth the extra cost, but I'd say it really comes down to the frequency in which you are indicating and the importance of being true to .0001 vs say maybe .0005. Half thou may be fine depending on the application, so It really comes down to personal preference, but I think it's worth it all day, BTW I am using an older generation pre owned NOGA base, fine adjustment at the top, not the base, I have used all sorts and really like the new ones with the fine adjustment at the top AND an adjustable swivel on the dovetail clamp, but not enough to spring for a brand new one. Not big on the ones with the fine adjustment at the base. I think the results of a well maintained interapid cannot be surpassed, without the right indicator it doesn't matter much what you hold it with. That's just my 2 cents..
 
I love my Nogas-- have 3 of them. First one to work well on the line. I even have one with 12" arms.... it really gives the reach needed for special applications. I've not had any problem with loss of position. I Use them with 2" and 4" Starrett indicators. I'll check out the other brands mentioned as high end. The import I got last was a waste of money.
 
I have both the Noga and a clone. The import looks nice enough. The Noga looks about the same, but holds better.

As others have said, the longer the lever arm the easier it is for the joint to move. You need a series increase in arm and joint size (and Noga does make a decent version) for long reach. The Fisso is nice, but the price chain seems to be 1x for the clone, 2x for the genuine Noga, 4x for the Fisso.

For surface plate use, Brown and Sharpe made a massive indicator system that's pretty rigid and often available at reasonable cost used. These came with a t-slotted base and a stand and arm, usually in a metal box. Can't remember if B&S #731 is the smaller or larger size of the two versions they made.

Here's a Brown & Sharpe 731 on the left. It's the larger one, the 730 being smaller.
The stand on the rightDSCN0738.jpg was made by Boice Gage. Heavier than the B&S.
 
I love my Nogas-- have 3 of them. First one to work well on the line. I even have one with 12" arms.... it really gives the reach needed for special applications.
Do you use your big Noga with the magnetic base it came with? I have one, but the base doesn't hold it strongly enough on any but flat horizontal surfaces. I've never seen another in person so I don't have any to compare it to.
 
Do you use your big Noga with the magnetic base it came with? I have one, but the base doesn't hold it strongly enough on any but flat horizontal surfaces. I've never seen another in person so I don't have any to compare it to.

Mine was plenty strong enough to withstand most treatment apart from the time I was swing trammelling the facing slide of a large Hor bore and pressed the " Spindle Run " green button instead of the " Spindle Inch " green button.
The " Noga " was thrown about 30 ft down the shop but it still worked perfectly once I'd dusted it down. I can't say the same for the " Verdict " DTI that it was holding, but nothing is forever.

Regards Tyrone.
 
Do you use your big Noga with the magnetic base it came with? I have one, but the base doesn't hold it strongly enough on any but flat horizontal surfaces. I've never seen another in person so I don't have any to compare it to.

No real complaints about the strength of the magnet on my noga either. It holds fine on the side of a round tool or spindle nose in a mill for example.
 
I use the jointed noga holder...it's probably the most versitile holder I own and a must for edm work. A bit expensive but well worth the price of admission.
 
Do you use your big Noga with the magnetic base it came with? I have one, but the base doesn't hold it strongly enough on any but flat horizontal surfaces. I've never seen another in person so I don't have any to compare it to.

I was looking at the giant Noga also and saw a lot of complaints about the magnets. I would like to get one, but not if it can't support it's own mass.
 
We like our Noga's and have been replacing all of the cheap bar clamp style mag-bases with them. We also got a little 660 series Starrett (not sure if it's a re-brand but it's the same style) that seems to work just as well. We prefer the style with the fine adjustment on the base (Noga DG10533).
 








 
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