Need to 3d scan/digitise a small part

Spud · Dec 26, 2013

Where does one usually go to get a small part scanned/digitised?
So when looking at shops to 3d scan, is there a particular brand of machine and program that I should prefer over others?

By the way, what kind of prices am I looking at. Part is about the size of a beer mug.

Thanks

Bruce Nelson · Dec 26, 2013

Maybe you could give us a better idea of what the part looks like. If I were to digitize this part, I would have to get at all the surfaces (interior and exterior) with a Renishaw touch probe.

Lord Byron

Big Chips · Dec 26, 2013

pm sent..check you inbox

Spud · Dec 26, 2013

Hi guys
The part is from an old machine (50s or 60s) .

bukwerm · Dec 27, 2013

What are you trying to achieve by digitizing?

Unless there's some reason the body has to be exactly the same shape than I'd think you could measure the functional features exactly, and approximate the body to get a working copy.

I say approximately, but it looks to me that measuring and modeling it would get you a part that is pretty much identical. That's assuming there's not some complicated/critical features on the side not shown.

Bruce Nelson · Dec 27, 2013

Spud said:
Hi guys
The part is from an old machine (50s or 60s) .

This part doesn't appear too difficult, providing there aren't any internal features that would be a problem. The portions painted green would be represented by 3-d machinable surfaces that would have to be finished by contouring with the appropriate size ball-end mill. If you can wait until May 1 of next year when I return to my shop in Wisconsin, I could quote you a reasonable price for this job. The result to you would be a IGES file in which the surfaces could be machined by 3-d cutter paths from cam systems like Mastercam, which I could also provide if needed.

Lord Byron

Spud · Dec 27, 2013

bukwerm said:
What are you trying to achieve by digitizing?

Unless there's some reason the body has to be exactly the same shape than I'd think you could measure the functional features exactly, and approximate the body to get a working copy.

I say approximately, but it looks to me that measuring and modeling it would get you a part that is pretty much identical. That's assuming there's not some complicated/critical features on the side not shown.

I would like the scanned image to be as close to the real thing as possible, mostly for aesthetic reasons.

Spud · Dec 27, 2013

Bruce Nelson said:
This part doesn't appear too difficult, providing there aren't any internal features that would be a problem. The portions painted green would be represented by 3-d machinable surfaces that would have to be finished by contouring with the appropriate size ball-end mill. If you can wait until May 1 of next year when I return to my shop in Wisconsin, I could quote you a reasonable price for this job. The result to you would be a IGES file in which the surfaces could be machined by 3-d cutter paths from cam systems like Mastercam, which I could also provide if needed.

Lord Byron

Here's another picture.

--

The part supports a spindle in the vertical position ( for vertical milling) on my little milling machine. A friend has the same machine but is missing this part so he simply rigged up a homebrew fixture . My machine was made in the 50s or maybee 60s and this style machine stopped being made in the 70s and the company (Swiss) went defunct in the late 80s or very early 90s. So finding another part like this is not a realistic option.

I would like an exact (as close as possible) 3d scan of the part so that I can have it 3d printed or machined (depending on cost). Unfortunately I can't wait till May because machine will be gone in a few weeks.

CarbideBob · Dec 27, 2013

Get out your surface plate, height gauge, vee blocks and 90 degree plates.
Measure and draw in the cad.
I really doubt any scan method will give you "good" numbers on the bore and pin.
This part is a really bad use of a scanner/digitizer.

I'd also drop the idea of 3-D printing.
Grab a block of 4140 and start whittling.
This is not a complicated piece but it looks like it will need some grinding and honing.
The grads on the pivot are going to be the biggest pain unless you have a laser.
Bob

Spud · Dec 27, 2013

CarbideBob said:
Get out your surface plate, height gauge, vee blocks and 90 degree plates.
Measure and draw in the cad.
I really doubt any scan method will give you "good" numbers on the bore and pin.
This part is a really bad use of a scanner/digitizer.

I'd also drop the idea of 3-D printing.
Grab a block of 4140 and start whittling.
This is not a complicated piece but it looks like it will need some grinding and honing.
The grads on the pivot are going to be the biggest pain unless you have a laser.
Bob

The 3d printed part would be used to make a mold for casting, which would be at a point in the future when I won't have the original part.
While I have been acquiring machines over several years now for a future home shop, I don't have those metrological instruments you mention.

---
Another view

CarbideBob · Dec 27, 2013

Spud said:
While I have been acquiring machines over several years now for a future home shop, I don't have those metrological instruments you mention.

Oh my, not sure what to say.
Those machines will do you no good without the ability to know what you have just made.
Not real fancy stuff named here.
Quit buying machines until you at least have the bare essential measuring equipment.
Bob

Spud · Dec 27, 2013

CarbideBob said:
Oh my, not sure what to say.
Those machines will do you no good without the ability to know what you have just made.
Not real fancy stuff named here.
Quit buying machines until you at least have the bare essential measuring equipment.
Bob

I have 1 Mitutoyo Vernier Caliper from the 80s

I used to have a Pratt & Whitney Model B supermicrometer.

Yeah I agree I need measuring equipment, but when I see certain machines (non cnc) going at a decent price ...I can't resist.

I figured I would buy measuring equipment once I had space to set up the machines.

The real Leigh · Dec 27, 2013

The first tool I bought when I started my apprenticeship was a used English Moore & Wright tenth-reading 1" micrometer.

I still have it, and it's still spot on according to my Mitutoyo micrometer calibration set.

I bought it almost 50 years ago. Good tools don't wear out.

- Leigh

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