Seized 0-1" Micrometer

Webley91 · Apr 8, 2017

I acquired this Moore & Wright 0-1" Micrometer at a flea market here in the UK.

I picked it up and looked at it and found that it is seized solid. The seller said I could take it for free if I wanted it, so I did.

It looks like it has never seen much actual use. It has its original protective case, adjusting spanner and even the original anti-corrosion paper still in the case.

I can see some rust around the hole where the spindle goes through the frame. This may be what has caused it to be seized.

I would like some suggestions on trying to free it up.

Thanks for any replies.

Scottl · Apr 8, 2017

I'd say any good penetrating oil or rust solvent. I know what's available in the U.S. but they may not something you could find. In a pinch I've used everything from air tool oil to automatic transmission fluid. Even the paraffin oil used in lamps will often work. If you can find it oil of wintergreen (the plant) is fabulous on rust.

Major requirement is patience. Apply the light oil at all seams and check if it can be moved in a day or two. If it gets so you can move it a little apply more oil and try again the next day.

Steven-Canada · Apr 8, 2017

Of course you checked the lock is off ?

I'd soak it in Kroil for a month first.

moonlight machine · Apr 8, 2017

Steven-Canada said:
Of course you checked the lock is off ?

I'd soak it in Kroil for a month first.

I would not waste much time on it, E bay is loaded with 1" mics. for about $25.00 or less.

ewlsey · Apr 8, 2017

A good 18" pipe wrench ought to get her moving.

Sparky961 · Apr 8, 2017

Citric acid, if seized with iron oxide.

Spyderedge · Apr 8, 2017

moonlight machine said:
I would not waste much time on it, E bay is loaded with 1" mics. for about $25.00 or less.

A Moore and Wright micrometer is worth trying to save.

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rjs44032 · Apr 8, 2017

I would first try some thin solvent like petrol or WD40 to soak in for a day or so. The problem may be ancient oil or grease that is now hard as rock. If that doesn't work then you can try soaking in vinegar or other chelation rust removal techniques. However these may remove all the paint and attack the polished surfaces. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Best Regards,
Bob

ewlsey · Apr 8, 2017

Spyderedge said:
A Moore and Wright micrometer is worth trying to save.

Why? If it's corroded enough to be seized, do you really think it's going to be accurate to .0001?

Not everything is worth saving.

Monarchist · Apr 8, 2017

ewlsey said:
A good 18" pipe wrench ought to get her moving.

Yup. Used in the same manner as a field-hockey stick to bunt the El Cheapo Moore & Wright into the scrap bin. Corroded OR new.

Then go and buy a proper micrometer from one of the better makers.

Done.

moonlight machine · Apr 8, 2017

Monarchist said:
Yup. Used in the same manner as a field-hockey stick to bunt the El Cheapo Moore & Wright into the scrap bin. Corroded OR new.

Then go and buy a proper micrometer from one of the better makers.

Done.

I worked in England, in the little town of Bicester, at least it was little when I was there between 1988 and late summer of 1990. The shop was equipped with lots of Moore & Wright stuff, all of it was absolutely average.

Spyderedge · Apr 8, 2017

ewlsey said:
Why? If it's corroded enough to be seized, do you really think it's going to be accurate to .0001?

Not everything is worth saving.

That's a good point, and it depends on where the rust is. The threads might be okay since they would have been more protected than the area between spindle and frame.

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Monarchist · Apr 8, 2017

Spyderedge said:
That's a good point, and it depends on where the rust is. The threads might be okay since they would have been more protected than the area between spindle and frame.

I actually have a War Two vintage B&S mic - my late Uncle's as a 'steam up and down' US Merchant Marine Engineer - that I DID save from corrosion.

Exposed to 'Water White Rosin' soldering flux, that one had been, so a very, very even brown patina all over.

But even though I have far higher regard for B&S than Moore & Wrought-Iron, I'd not have bothered, save that it is a rather scarce 0-3/8" range 'mini' that can get into tight places.

A 0-1"?

Fecks sake, drug on the market, that size range is.

New(ish) Mitutoyo, B&S/Hexagon, Weiler/Tesa, Mahr, vintage B&S, vintage P&W-branded, vintage, Scherr-Tumico, Lufkin Rule, Mauser/Keifer... can't be bothered with Starrett. May as well have the better Chinese ones as that whorehouse.

Gordon B. Clarke · Apr 9, 2017

Webley91 said:
I acquired this Moore & Wright 0-1" Micrometer at a flea market here in the UK.

I picked it up and looked at it and found that it is seized solid. The seller said I could take it for free if I wanted it, so I did.

It looks like it has never seen much actual use. It has its original protective case, adjusting spanner and even the original anti-corrosion paper still in the case.

I can see some rust around the hole where the spindle goes through the frame. This may be what has caused it to be seized.

I would like some suggestions on trying to free it up.

Thanks for any replies.

View attachment 195937

Assuming you get it to work again would you intend using it or would it just be an "antique discussion" piece?

If the first you're wasting your time. If the latter then time isn't important and worth trying advice given as to "soaking".

Street · Apr 9, 2017

Usually its just been sitting in a humid environment so steam gets everywhere and condenses to water.

You can soak it for a while then undo the end nut near the ratchet pop off the thimble then loosen the thread tightener a lot. ( thimble is on a slight taper) Place thimble back on and retaining nut.
Grab the Shaft of the mic in soft jaws ( not near the end as you don't want to burr the faces) and give the frame a turn.
Be careful the soft jaws are not too long and don't bend the shaft, short ones held tighter are better than long ones held more gently.Only use just enough force to clamp it no more.
It should move with moderate force if not i would go the acid route, but not get the faces covered in it, take the thimble off etc before placing in acid.
Repeat after some time.
Yes they are not worth much and quality is average but they where good for their day, until mitutyo quality arrived.
Shouldn't change its measuring ability.

Good mantle piece if your inclined to put some time in to save it, or can use it if you like as it not all shiney so likely not used much in the first place, if all the black paint was missing it would be likely have some wear.

OH most machinists know how to adjust micrometers and pull apart as its part of the job so have not included that bit of info on resetting it- if you need that bit just ask someone will chime in. I did one just like it same problem for another fellow who uses the mic now.

Mike1974 · Apr 9, 2017

ewlsey said:
Why? If it's corroded enough to be seized, do you really think it's going to be accurate to .0001?

Not everything is worth saving.

As Rick (you know or you don't...) would say -

"Just because it's old, doesn't mean it's valuable." (sic)

Derek Smalls · Apr 9, 2017

I think a lot of you guys are jumping the gun here. I bought some mics at an auction once that were in really nice shape. A few of them were very stiff, nearly seized up. I figured they were junk, but I soaked them with penetrating oil, just for the hell of it, and once I got them apart I found no corrosion anywhere. The oil(probably wrong oil) that some one had used, had turned really thick and sticky with time, that was the only problem. Once I cleaned them really well and lubed them with instrument oil they check out perfectly.
I agree that the OP's mic is not worth much, it could easily be replaced for short money, but that doesn't mean it's junk and needs to be thrown out either.

rons · Apr 9, 2017

Soak it standing up in a jar. You have nothing to lose except the time it takes to read opinions here and the time it takes to wash the penetrating oil off your hands. Then it might work.

But for me, that chunk of steel that cracked off on the barrel is something I could not live with.

rons · Apr 9, 2017

ewlsey said:
A good 18" pipe wrench ought to get her moving.

Looks like that was already tried...

Tony Quiring · Apr 9, 2017

Place it in a jar filled with paint thinner and let it soak for a week.

Try to turn in and it it moves a little rock back and forth and put back into jar upside down from first time.

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Seized 0-1" Micrometer

Cast Iron

Diamond

Hot Rolled

Diamond

Diamond

Cast Iron

Titanium

Hot Rolled

Diamond

Diamond

Diamond

Titanium

Diamond

Banned

Hot Rolled

Diamond

Stainless

Diamond

Diamond

Titanium

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