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10 ee apron worm wheel

Are there any sources for apron drive worm wheel other than Monarch? Their " today's special" price $470, might be my best deal?
Tom

Probably is the best deal. Partly because it will be a known fit, and they'll make it right if it is not.

Hard to DIY even if you know how and are tooled without the detailed drawings they own.
Could easily take a person more than one try, no refund on the wasted time OR the scrap.

Also not 'really' any cheaper if you price your time and that of your other resources at present-day market rates, not the rates of the year your 10EE was 'born'.

:)

PS: $470 won't buy me a full set of four new tires for the MOPAR van, let alone the Jaguar. I have learned that tires don't last anywhere near as long as any part on a 10EE and just Deal With That. IOW, about ten bucks a year, that worm's amortized cost.
 
Gears are a very expensive hobby. I could make that worm on my Barber Colman, (hopefully I won't have to, haven't taken my apron apart yet!!) but I would need to get a worm hob for whatever DP the mating gear is (probably $500 from Ash Gear), buy the material, turn the material on my lathe, figure out how to hold the blank in the hobber, make the holding device, cut the teeth, broach the slot, and then for me that would be it. I assume the part from Monarch is then hardened in some fashion, and probably finish ground. $470 sounds cheap all of a sudden.

I am into gears and I can make my own if I need, but as I tell my friends, the cheapest way to make a gear is to buy it.
 
What is the condition of its mate, the actual "worm" that slides on the driving leadscrew? If that is included in the price as a set, then that would be a screamin' deal. When I pulled mine apart, what was supposed to be a sturdy internal key, looked like a knife edge. That one would be tricky to make, edm methinks.
 
When I was in mine both the worm and gear were worn - the worm's keyway was like Daryl's and maybe 3/32 thick and the gear was about 1/2 gone. The hardest thing about the worm was that key - it's integral to the worm and likely was broached in the original. If I was going to make it I think I'd cut a regular keyway and TIG in the key - it's captive anyway in the apron and only need to be kept from bouncing to one end and causing wear on the end bushes.

The gear is closer to standard as far as I recall.
 
Right after I typed the first post, I thought that maybe you could cut a keyway in there, but I don't remember if that would compromise the gear due to the thickness of the wall after you cut it. I always wonder why Monarch would have done it that way, and usually a good reason.
 








 
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