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10 EE gasket/seal update

bll230

Hot Rolled
Joined
Jun 14, 2007
Location
Las Vegas
I contacted Monarch about the gaskets and seals, and surprisingly, they have all the gaskets.

The seal for the reverse shaft turns out to be a Garlock 1x1.75 inch series, surprising since the reverse shaft is 25 mm. I ordered the seal along with the gaskets since I didn't know what it was, but knowing the size now, the SKF green seal type for about $3 would be satisfactory. Monarch price was $14.

The total price for all this was about $200, but the amount of effort it will save me makes it worth it.

Footnote, I am aware the rear bearing cap gasket is missing the hole for the oil drain return. I assume their subcontractor messed up the die. I will contact Monarch about this. Easy fix, knowing that it is missing.
 

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Hello. Thanks for posting. This helps me a lot as I am rebuilding a 1939 ee. Can you post the invoice so I would know specifically which gaskets you purchased? Some are immediately recognizable. Some are not. If easier, take a photo and text me. Thanks
Jim Murphy. 619 994-9497
[email protected]
 
I contacted Monarch about the gaskets and seals, and surprisingly, they have all the gaskets.

Where/how did you get the parts numbers for all those gaskets? I recognize the shape of 4 of those coming from parts on parts diagram E1-B of my manual, but the parts listing for diagram E1-B makes no mention of any gaskets for those parts.
 
Tom, the square dial parts drawings (yes, drawings, the square dial does not have photos like the round dial manual), plus I asked Terry about a couple of them. Some were a waste of money as it turned out. Their subcontractor doesn't have very precise dies. The gearbox end gasket was so misshapen I made my own, the long rectangular cork one for the apron sump was worthless, and the cork for the headstock cover plate leaked as I mentioned in a previous post.
 
Thank you.

Yes, I have a round dial 1944 vintage. Isn't it better to just use Permatex and make your own gasket like seals on the parts?

I emailed Terrie and she sent me a list of all the gaskets for my lathe end gearing and gearbox. Close to $350 for them all, and most are 2 week lead time. Can't imagine Permatex isn't a better solution for me since this won't be a heavily used lathe
 
Tom, I used the gaskets and Hylomar everywhere (the blue smears are hard to get rid of!) Rather than using Ultra Blue or Ultra Grey and gluing surfaces together, I would use the hammer tap method to make gaskets out of gasket material. I don't know if there is a orifice issue on the round dial gearbox, but on the square dial gearbox, the backplate is part of an oil passage that lubricates the leadscrew angular contact pair, and if Ultra Blue were used it might squeeze into the orifice and block the passageway.
 
Tom, I used the gaskets and Hylomar everywhere (the blue smears are hard to get rid of!) Rather than using Ultra Blue or Ultra Grey and gluing surfaces together, I would use the hammer tap method to make gaskets out of gasket material. I don't know if there is a orifice issue on the round dial gearbox, but on the square dial gearbox, the backplate is part of an oil passage that lubricates the leadscrew angular contact pair, and if Ultra Blue were used it might squeeze into the orifice and block the passageway.

Yes, I am going the gasket route as I am not particularly good with Permatex. I ordered what was readily available from Monarch and will make the others as I have plenty of gasket material around, both cork and some Garlock material. Never heard of Hylomar, you use that as a glue to get the gaskets to stay sealed?

Would you use the cork material or the actual gasket material?

I am actually going to try to make plastic templates (laser cutter) of those gaskets so they can be easily remade.
 
I would stick with .016 Garlock. The cork works ok for the sight glasses, didn’t work elsewhere. Hylomar is a British product that you smear on the gasket. It also works to glue the gasket down while you tap the outline in.
 








 
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