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10 EE WIAD 2500 RPM pulley's Wanted.

You do not get any extra torque above the motors base speed do you?

No, but...

While a roughly 2:1 mechanical advantage could offset the Field Weakened zone loss plus a bit, "2500 RPM" vs "4000 RPM" was more effectively done with a modest, not drastic, pulley-ratio difference.

Different motors, rather.

The 2500 RPM 10EE's had 690 base RPM large-frame Reliance Type T motor with roughly 23 ft lbs of torque.

With some overlap and variations, 4000 RPM models generally used either 3 HP (WiaD, early?) and 5 HP (Modular, all, SOME WiaD?) SMALL frame motors, roughly 15 lbs ft of torque or so, but base RPM of 1150 and higher.

No torque gain at lower RPM vs the 3 HP large frame. LOSS, rather.

Gain they were chasing after was high RPM stability to haul carbides of that era. Which were generally negative rake "pushers" of chip rather than positive-rake "slicers" of chip.

And they GOT it. The Torque/RPM -> HP math is not complex. Easy to make a comparison table at selected RPM increments. Large-frame is only rated to 2400 Armature RPM, gets dicey at 3,000 if run there. Small frames are rated to 4,000, 4500, even 5500 RPM at their armature shaft.

Least-cost fix here is probably a tooling change. Lots more choices in inserts nowadays, LOTS more.

I've tested the 3 HP large-frame @ 4.5 HP, higher torque according. Same settings run Eric's 5 HP motor at close enough to 100%. But I do not suggest running the 3 HP that hard. I have spares..

:)

Stock power, OEM MG, Thyratrons, or aftermarket Parker-SSD is enough to hand the compound rest a "bad hair day" as it is.

A DC motor does not "slip", and can easily double or quadruple its nominal torque, briefly, so long as the power source allows that.

Nominal 12.5 FLA @ 230 VDC on mine is set up for 16A 'steady', plus 150% overload for 90 seconds, and @ 270 VDC Armature, as much as 140 VDC Field rather than 115 VDC.

So.. more torque?

WHY?

It has to go somewhere, after all.

Compare a 10EE to a 12 CK as to saddle, cross, compound, TP size fitted, TS taper, motor and gearing.

The engine lathe is the "heavy lifter" chip-peeler, Series 60 even more so. Not the 10EE.
 
Someone has listed the bottom pulley on eBay for quite a while, $50. I asked him the dimensions and it was same as mine, 2500 rpm machine.
Mine is a 1944, MG set, early square dial. I assume the WiaD uses the same low gear box and pulley mount...?
 
Someone has listed the bottom pulley on eBay for quite a while, $50. I asked him the dimensions and it was same as mine, 2500 rpm machine.
Mine is a 1944, MG set, early square dial. I assume the WiaD uses the same low gear box and pulley mount...?

At some point the gearbox input went from keyed to splined. My 3 HP small frame has the splined shaft, the large-frame here are all keyed shaft. Reliance - all of them.

OTOH, Monarch moved-off exclusively Reliance motors as well.

Most modular have GE KinaMatic or Louis-Allis. Not sure what the percentage mix was during the WiaD era.
 
I have a 2500 rpm 1954 WiaD 10ee. I'd be happy to swap pulleys with you. Any chance you'd also want to swap tachs? I'd prefer a 4000rpm machine; I have other lathes for when I need low-speed torque.
 
I have a 2500 rpm 1954 WiaD 10ee. I'd be happy to swap pulleys with you. Any chance you'd also want to swap tachs? I'd prefer a 4000rpm machine; I have other lathes for when I need low-speed torque.

You might both want to check whether splined or keywayed shaft mount for your respective LOWER pulley. Unless only the spindle one is what is to be exchanged.

I said "gearbox INPUT" because it had mostly come up in VFD conversions that retained a gearbox.

I've seen only the keyed ones, as mine - plus spares other than motors - are all MG-era.
 
Good call. I expect if we proceed measurements will be taken to figure what we need to swap and whether the parts would require modification before swapping.
 
Good call. I expect if we proceed measurements will be taken to figure what we need to swap and whether the parts would require modification before swapping.

Have more than once wished Monarch had left all the complexity in hub or flange - upper and lower - and used a QD taper-lock to allow stock Browning pulleys - cast-iron rather than light metal my preference.

OTOH, they ARE "engineered" specifically for their task and CAN last 70 years or so.

That part is not easy to find fault with. Also lots of OTHER things on a 10EE I would rather invest scarce time chasing-up.
 
I have a 2500 rpm 1954 WiaD 10ee. I'd be happy to swap pulleys with you. Any chance you'd also want to swap tachs? I'd prefer a 4000rpm machine; I have other lathes for when I need low-speed torque.
My gear box pulley is splined and the tach is available.
 
That means my link was double useless!

Useful enough! Thought it was clear *I* had purchased it? It was an MG-era keyed shaft item. Now and then they crack, so helps to not let them get away.

No fear.. none of the 'stash' of 10EE parts here that aren't meant for recycling within the community - two entire 10EE included.... when the time approacheth.

Meanwhile, if it fits a '42-'44 MG-era "Round Dial" I'll continue to packratize for a while yet...

Kinda hurts to see ever-scarcer 10EE parts go to scrap - or to those who do not even know what the parts ARE such that they end up buried in a junk pile, go lost altogether or get re-purposed into a DIY cement mixer or such!
 
I decided to machine a pulley for the spindle I had a steel pulley 5" that fit the spindle it was a double b belt pulley. I machined the v's off left one as a flange. Then I machined a 8" piece of AL to fit the steel hub and bolted it to the hub.

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