10EE Motor hummed, ran slow and died !!

G

gears77

Plastic

Joined

Jun 15, 2012

Location

Connecticut, USA

• Oct 3, 2016

• #1

Hi Everyone,

I have searched this forum but I can't find it in the reams of pages it gives me.
1943 Round dial that is is great condition and always runs fine. S/N EE16315. Of course.. right in the middle of a job....

Pressed the main start button and it hummed and ran slowly for a few seconds. I turned it off and checked the Main fuses in my circuit box. Found one fuse blown. Replaced it and tried it again. Now I get no response or relay clicks from the start button. Nothing.

In the past couple of years I have serviced the MG and the exciter. New brushes, etc.

What would cause this? Is there a relay or starter for the motor? Truly appreciate
your help.

Peter

 

rke[pler

Diamond

Joined

Feb 19, 2002

Location

Peralta, NM USA

• Oct 3, 2016

• #2

Maybe the main contactor coil has failed? It should pull in when you press the start, and you should hear the click when it does. I'd check the wiring from the contactor to the start button (the contacts are known to go bad and the wiring in there can break at the tabs) then see if there's any voltage to the contactor coil when you press the start button.

 

G

gears77

Plastic

Joined

Jun 15, 2012

Location

Connecticut, USA

• Oct 3, 2016

• #3

Hi, Thanks for the help. I am not sure which set of contacts are the start contacts. There is an upper and a lower set... see photo. I tested continuity from the start switch to both coils. Found none. That doesn't seem right. I turned on the power and moved the latch and pressed in both sets of contacts and have no response.
I think I have cleaned those main contacts before. I am not sure how to override the contact coils to see if they work. Any ideas?

Many Thanks

 

rke[pler

Diamond

Joined

Feb 19, 2002

Location

Peralta, NM USA

• Oct 3, 2016

• #4

That's the DC panel (but one unfamiliar to me), there should be a box on the back of the lathe headstock with the main power contactor. There should be an exposed overload reset switch on the face of the box.

(Found a schematic for the DC panel, EE-2674 dated 7-9-42. That's an old one).

 

rke[pler

Diamond

Joined

Feb 19, 2002

Location

Peralta, NM USA

• Oct 3, 2016

• #5

It should look something like this:



Under this cover:



But then again that's a pretty old lathe and I might be wrong about the contactor position.

 

G

gears77

Plastic

Joined

Jun 15, 2012

Location

Connecticut, USA

• Oct 3, 2016

• #6

OMG... brilliant. I can barely get the the back of my lathe. I saw the reset button in your pic.
Pressed it. All fixed. I am so sorry to have taken you down this path. I didn't know there was a reset!!! or that panel.
I am very grateful for talking me off the ledge.
All of my best,
Peter

 

rke[pler

Diamond

Joined

Feb 19, 2002

Location

Peralta, NM USA

• Oct 3, 2016

• #7

That's got you started, but you'll want to figure out the cause of the overload. If you didn't cause it it's likely that it'll return, and it could do some real damage to something in the process. It's also possible that the overload is poorly sized to the lathe's voltage - we've seen that problem before.

 

G

gears77

Plastic

Joined

Jun 15, 2012

Location

Connecticut, USA

• Oct 3, 2016

• #8

I agree. I will take it apart ASAP.
Thanks again.

 

L

labeeman

Hot Rolled

Joined

Mar 29, 2016

• Oct 3, 2016

• #9

A failed fuse on 3 phase will cause the motor to overload and trip the overload relay could have been a old fuse that died from old age.

 

G

gears77

Plastic

Joined

Jun 15, 2012

Location

Connecticut, USA

• Oct 3, 2016

• #10

Interesting.. It did look like an ancient Frankenstein fossil. I will check it out. The other two fuses looked more modern so I replace it with one of those.

 

C

Cal Haines

Diamond

Joined

Sep 19, 2002

Location

Tucson, AZ

• Oct 3, 2016

• #11

gears77 said:

Hi, Thanks for the help. I am not sure which set of contacts are the start contacts. There is an upper and a lower set... see photo. I tested continuity from the start switch to both coils. Found none. That doesn't seem right. I turned on the power and moved the latch and pressed in both sets of contacts and have no response.
I think I have cleaned those main contacts before. I am not sure how to override the contact coils to see if they work. Any ideas?

Many Thanks
View attachment 181668

Click to expand...

Hi Peter,

You've posted before about this machine. I know we discussed this before, but for those who may be interested, you have one of a handful of machines with that type of DC control panel. As far as I know, all of them were built during August of 1943. I suspect that there as some sort of war-time shortage, since they used AC contactors for the forward and reverse contactors, in place of the normal Struthers-Dunn DC contactors. That panel is completely different from the other variants of the DC control panel.

back link

Cal

 

G

gears77

Plastic

Joined

Jun 15, 2012

Location

Connecticut, USA

• Oct 4, 2016

• #12

Exactly right Cal. You have helped me a lot in keeping my machine up and running. I do appreciate it. Glad you are out there.
Many Thanks,
Peter