10EE removing components for weight

I got my 10EE home into the garage with 3 ton roll-a-lifts, but it will be tough getting it rolled around the back yard to my workshop. I got my 2200 pound Barber Colman gear hobber into the workshop so that is my standard. It is a Wiad type.

My guesses on weights are
Tailstock 100 lbs
Carriage and apron and taper 200lbs
3 hp Reliance motor and backgear gearbox 250 lbs
Threading gear box 40 lbs

Are these weights accurate?

Is it practical to take the headstock off, is it like South Bend, clamps on the ways, or is it jigged and not good to remove it?

Any other weight removing suggestions?

John

I believe that you always wanted a concrete causeway/ sidewalk between the garage and the workshop........ put it on skates and its done

bll230 said:

I got my 10EE home into the garage with 3 ton roll-a-lifts, but it will be tough getting it rolled around the back yard to my workshop. I got my 2200 pound Barber Colman gear hobber into the workshop so that is my standard. It is a Wiad type.

My guesses on weights are
Tailstock 100 lbs
Carriage and apron and taper 200lbs
3 hp Reliance motor and backgear gearbox 250 lbs
Threading gear box 40 lbs

Are these weights accurate?

Is it practical to take the headstock off, is it like South Bend, clamps on the ways, or is it jigged and not good to remove it?

Any other weight removing suggestions?

John

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?? I could lay trail or lay grillage and skate rail over boggy ground for several hundred yards for less effort than taking ANY of that off and attempting to get it back right. 'Roadway' need not be continuous, 2 or 3 10EE lenghts at a go can work.

A hundred bucks would see the 10EE dangled off a wrecker boom and slow-backed right to the shop door.

Or put onto a drop-deck trailer, even if the trailer then had to be man-handled, and winched, no vehicle attached. Locali here rents 'rough terrain' forklifts as well as yard and warehouse types.

Just how bad IS the soil, slope, or obstacle course, anyway?

Biggest risk is actually tipping-over and face-planting en route, not sinking straight downward. That risk is actually WORSE if the motor and low-mounted goods in the 'bomb bay' are out of it.

I appreciate the advice on upgrading my house, but my choice is roll over 30 feet of grass and some pine tree roots sticking up and then jack over the patio sliding door jamb, or jack over the door jamb from the garage into the kitchen and roll over the floor through the kitchen and living room into my model helicopter room which is in the house behind the kitchen.

The 2200 pound BC we got over the grass with 3/4 inch plywood, but it was tough. 4 men and a come-along. I would really like to lighten the Monarch before risking getting it stuck on the tree root induced hills and valleys.

as far as rolling through the kitchen, my doors are 36 inches, so it could be done, but I am afraid of damage to the hardwood floors, even with 2 sheets of 3/4 inch ply on the floor.

bll230 said:

I appreciate the advice on upgrading my house, but my choice is roll over 30 feet of grass and some pine tree roots sticking up and then jack over the patio sliding door jamb, or jack over the door jamb from the garage into the kitchen and roll over the floor through the kitchen and living room into my model helicopter room which is in the house behind the kitchen.

The 2200 pound BC we got over the grass with 3/4 inch plywood, but it was tough. 4 men and a come-along.

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"PBL" AKA "Pure Bullshit Luck" it worked AT ALL.

It was, shall we say "a highly sub-optimal approach", bare 3/4" ply.

I would really like to lighten the Monarch before risking getting it stuck on the tree root induced hills and valleys.

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Outta luck. Goodyear just this past week deflated the last of their blimps.

Best you find experienced help, locally, then. That's the part missing. This is not a hard job for those who have the knowledge.

as far as rolling through the kitchen, my doors are 36 inches, so it could be done, but I am afraid of damage to the hardwood floors, even with 2 sheets of 3/4 inch ply on the floor.

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Do not do that.

'Hardwood' floor's imply 5/8", 3/4" at best, shoddy-ply over joists, half-vast nail-gunned, residential 150 lb sq/Ft or LESS, static load rated.

The 10EE is concentrated load, 'dynamic' as-rolled, and 3/4" ply is not going to magically reduce the spacing of the joists under in half, nor shorten their span.

You could easily have a NEW "door" a lot bigger than 36", and "downward facing".

Slab floor, the same floor the BC and the heavy 10 is on.

I would remove all the handles, so that WHEN you drop it you are not quite so heartbroken

bll230 said:

Slab floor, not on piers.

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Hmmmm.. 'Slab' at full-bearing over properly prepped subgrade, Mother Earth under, not bridged?

Y'know you can pull a door AND its entire trim and frame fast and cheap, no? Opening drywall and restoring isn't a huge deal, either.

If that could give me a direct-route with ZERO soft ground to traverse, I'd do it just as I had rather a large number of 5,800 lb Avoir TRTL-30 'diamond' safes delivered over marble flooring, retail store showroom "Day Job".

Cheap carpet layer first, ACX exterior or BETTER ply, cut narrow enough, 4 X 4 grillage atop the ply, HDF, then sheet steel atop the grillage to keep 'ball bearing race' type skate rollers that rigger loved from digging-in and taking up housekeeping in-place.

Nowadays, I'd just use my fat urethane-roller 4,400 lbs per-each skates, but still do the carpet and ply to protect my through-body porcelain tile flooring and 'tarima flotante' in the LR area.

And you can stop for a snack or piss-call without worry about rain. Wife? Throw a good shag into her, give her NEW door-trim and curtains, contract a floor polisher outfit, she'll smile again soon enough.



My 10EE's are both ON skates, and all the time BTW.

They aren't moved with a winch. I use a short wooden pry lever to just inch them along incrementally, lift a few mm with a garage-mechanic's trolly jack and toe-kick a skate to change direction. Skates keep them up JUST high enough I don't need a bespoke 'toe jack' - only to yank the 'cup' off the nose of the trolley jack.

Trolley jack and a stack of grillage is your friend getting up over a kerb or sill, too.

Literally 'no sweat'.

I know some people are completely averse to actually spending money, but look at the sign crane people. I hired one 30 years ago to erect my barn[pronounced baaan hereabouts] and he was great and cheaper than riggers. might not be strong enough for the distance, but worth checking