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10EE - Scraping the Headstock for alignment

Zahnrad Kopf

Diamond
Joined
Apr 5, 2010
Location
Tropic of Milwaukee
I have been very intermittently working on scraping in the headstock alignment on the 10EE, and thinking I was coming to an end with it. ... silly boy... :nutter: :rolleyes5:

Turns out I am not as close as I thought I was. Evidently, the headstock was not only not seated correctly, but it is evidently rocking on a high spot. I found this out when I left the indicators on the test bar and loosened the front headstock clamp, only to witness the indicators overtravel. :eek::eek:

So, back to the drawing board... No biggie. But it does bring me to my desire for clarification on the actual goal, here. Does anyone have ( off-hand ) the specifications for the alignment using a test bar? I am using a test bar that fits the spindle's internal taper ( Jarno 12 ) and is 1.5" Diameter solid, 12" long outside the spindle.

What exactly is one looking for along the length, for alignment and droop? ( if any ) I am using two .0001" reading indicators, if it matters. I don't see why I would need .00005" indicators for this, but have them if necessary.

Thanks.

85999416-5F72-434E-954A-BB670498B972_zpslwpidjzs.jpg
 
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Good reading here. For a Tool Room Lathe, which is surely what you have have, it suggests 0-.01/300mm high at the end of the test bar and 0-.005/300mm out (resisting tool pressure) in the horizontal plane.

So it would seem 0-.0004" high at the end your test bar in the vertical plane, and 0-.0002" toward the operator in the horizontal plane.
 
ZK the center portion of the headstock should be relieved and sitting on it's cast in pads on each corner. Blue up the ways and slide the headstock back and forth then check contact on the headstock. Then scrape away and repeat many times:rolleyes5:. The test bar calculations on my miller test bar was .00017 sag at the end of the test bar if you want to take that into account. My round dial had .0001 max run out the entire length of the test bar. Be sure to check both at the headstock end and far end of the test bar to make sure it is seated properly in the jarno 12 taper in the headstock. A couple of people have had burrs in the taper myself included. I can sympathize with the amount of work involved in getting it aligned properly. If I remember correctly Richard said to point the headstock .ooo2 up and towards the operator. That way when facing off something it will have a slight dish and not a crown. Bob
 
Good reading here. For a Tool Room Lathe, which is surely what you have have, it suggests 0-.01/300mm high at the end of the test bar and 0-.005/300mm out (resisting tool pressure) in the horizontal plane.

My take is that the test bat setting at "0" or .0002 pointing out at the far end is not for tool pressure, but rather assures that when facing the surface produced will be flat to slightly concave (not high
in the center......
Error exists in everything, here you just want to be sure the error is not producing a problem surface.

Cheers Ross
 
ZK,You have that Testing Machine Tool Book as I sent everyone links to it during the class. Vette Bob was the host of the KC class and is also a perfectionist as you are ZK. He Mogliced the Saddle and mounted his indicators on the cross-slide to test the testbar. Your set up on the steady rest seems to me where a lot of your error is. The test bar is pointed to the operator for "tool pressure" and the squareness of the saddle cross-slide to the bed is why for the concave of the part you face. When Bob told me he left his low and not pointing up I recall grinning at him and said he should have scraped it a couple of more times so it was pointing up.

But hell if you get right down to it + - a tenth or two on a 15" bar is plenty good. ZK can you call Monarch and get the factory test sheet for these tests? Did you replace the headstock bearings or check to be sure they are tight? I think you should wait and do the headstock after you do the saddle. You can look in the back of your scraping booklet and see the King-way instructions where it shows you test we use when scraping the saddle square to the bed. If the head-stock and saddle are scraped properly the 2 tests will compliment each other. Rich
 
Wouldnt you want to use the spindle axis as reference for perpendicular travel of the cross slide while doing the saddle? So align headstock axis to ways horizontal and vertical then use that axis to align carriage x-slide travel for perpendicular?

Sent via cell phone.
 
ZK: Is the the test bar threaded for a drawbar or just lightly tapped to seat it? Just got my loaner Peterson test bar a few days ago and have not even taken it out if the oiled wrapper. Million other thing going on..... We all need more time in the day

Sent via cell phone.
 
This is very good news as it is good to see I am not the only one who had lots of fun aligning the headstock :D

It is even better when the headstock moves slightly when you tighten the bolts down.

Took me a few days of a few hours here and there. But I ended up getting it nice.

Also watch it does not hit on the quick change gearbox. With a ground bed, it will be higher then it was before as well.
 
Zahnrad,
Looks like you are doing a fine job of it..
Getting .0002 or so be sure to turn the spindle 180 on the bar so you might take the average.

Yes Buck is right and on both ends. When I align heads on Crank Grinders I have a flange on the HS end with small set screws to tweek the bars TS end a tenth. I also mark the bar so I get it in the same spot. Rich
 
Wouldnt you want to use the spindle axis as reference for perpendicular travel of the cross slide while doing the saddle? So align headstock axis to ways horizontal and vertical then use that axis to align carriage x-slide travel for perpendicular?

Sent via cell phone.

No. The key to alignment of the saddle and Headstock (and Tailstock**) is the bed. Many amateurs don't get it. The Bed is the Master you align to. If both are scraped right to the bed then they will be aligned to each other. This Headstock is removable from the bed. Now if the Headstock and Spindle were a permanent Fixed part of the bed like a Warner Swassey Turret Lathe then YES. You grind the bed in alignment of the spindle test bar. There is no way to adjust the spindle axis on a fixed head. Then you scrape the saddle the same way as I said. out of Square to bed so the cross-slide faces concave. I usually make it .0002"/12" I could check the Scleshingers book, to be precise.

Another way of looking at it is if you have a horizontal mill with the fixed spindle through the column then you scrape everything square and perpendicular to it. And if the mill has a removable head then you align it last to the column, knee, saddle and table.

** Many times new machine builders scrape the headstock last after the Tail-stock is at the desired height and alignment. I think Z is going to raise the TS after and he will align the TS to the HS via test bar I think. Rich
 
Plus I like to blue up a test bar and test the taper 180 apart. Have found a small hone-able bug that can throw at test off a tad.

A lot of the old timers I apprenticed under would put a little onion paper or paint on a layer of Dykem on one side or another of the taper to align or swing in the bar to the spindle bearing axis. Back in those days we used a Last Word Indicator too. You can see in the Moore Book they use the Last Word indicator. We would flick the indicator with our finger to be sure it was touching when we got it super close. I bet Buck did that a time or too? :-) Rich
 
Wow. There is much to respond to and cover, here. In effort to cover similar sentiments, advice, and my retorts and queries there will be some rearrangement, so bear with me...


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Good reading here. For a Tool Room Lathe, which is surely what you have have, it suggests 0-.01/300mm high at the end of the test bar and 0-.005/300mm out (resisting tool pressure) in the horizontal plane.
So it would seem 0-.0004" high at the end your test bar in the vertical plane, and 0-.0002" toward the operator in the horizontal plane.

ewlsey - Thank you very much. I had forgotten that Rich had given that to me a while back. Your post reminded me, but I appreciate your boiling it down to the result for me. There is not enough hours in the day, lately. :cheers:

ZK the center portion of the headstock should be relieved and sitting on it's cast in pads on each corner. Blue up the ways and slide the headstock back and forth then check contact on the headstock. Then scrape away and repeat many times:rolleyes5:. The test bar calculations on my miller test bar was .00017 sag at the end of the test bar if you want to take that into account. My round dial had .0001 max run out the entire length of the test bar. Be sure to check both at the headstock end and far end of the test bar to make sure it is seated properly in the jarno 12 taper in the headstock. A couple of people have had burrs in the taper myself included. I can sympathize with the amount of work involved in getting it aligned properly.

Yes, we are on the same page so far. ( including the scrape, rinse, repeat... :rolleyes5: ) My spindle taper did indeed have some fair amount of small burrs, introducing runout. In fact, that is exactly why that internal scraper is sitting on the ways, in that picture. :angry: That alone was more work than I would have liked, truth be told.

If I remember correctly Richard said to point the headstock .ooo2 up and towards the operator. That way when facing off something it will have a slight dish and not a crown. Bob

My take is that the test bat setting at "0" or .0002 pointing out at the far end is not for tool pressure, but rather assures that when facing the surface produced will be flat to slightly concave (not high
in the center...... Error exists in everything, here you just want to be sure the error is not producing a problem surface.
Cheers Ross

I think you should wait and do the headstock after you do the saddle.

Wouldnt you want to use the spindle axis as reference for perpendicular travel of the cross slide while doing the saddle? So align headstock axis to ways horizontal and vertical then use that axis to align carriage x-slide travel for perpendicular?

And there it is. :crazy: :willy_nilly: :nutter: :skep: :scratchchin: :reading:

Cash and I have had this conversation at least 12 times. I am going to write down what my thinking has been thus far, leave this open for discussion, and be willing to learn, challenge my current belief, and learn something if I can.

I have been working with the understanding that in a perfect world, the spindle should be perfectly aligned parallel to the ways and horizontally as well. Now, we know that there are considerations made for droop and tool pressure, but for now let us disregard those considerations and consider the topic of alignment for what I will refer to as "cupping" to make things simple, here.

I have always heard procedures described as aligning the cross slide past ( just slightly ) perpendicular to the spindle axis ( usually .0002" across a ground parallel or other flat affixed to a face plate ) to achieve this cupping. My point being that I have never seen it described as aligning the cross slide perfectly perpendicular to the ways. ( noting that this would assume that the headstock would then be aligned off of true parallel to the ways... )

So which is it? Is the headstock canted to achieve the .0002" of cupping? ( and the cross slide is actually truly perpendicular to the ways ) Or, is the headstock truly parallel to the ways? ( and the cross slide intentionally misaligned off of true perpendicular to the ways )

:confused: :confused: :confused:

Now, where it gets confounding for me is that it is an easy answer if one is only aligning one or the other on an otherwise good machine... One would ( as Rich points out ) align for the result, knowing that the overall machine is aligned to the ways. But we are not there right now. So a person can easily see how one could chase their virtual tail about it.

I am in a good place with this, as I can easily stop and switch to working on the saddle. It really does not matter one way or the other to me, aside from wanting to do it correctly.

So what is it to be? What say ye?


Your set up on the steady rest seems to me where a lot of your error is.

How so, Rich? I am willing to change it, but I don't see how that has anything to do with the head moving when I tighten and loosen the clamping bolts, or what it has to do with the bar's seat in the spindle. What am I missing?


ZK can you call Monarch and get the factory test sheet for these tests?

Yes, Sir. Sure can. I may even have them in my factory manual. I'll check tomorrow.


Did you replace the headstock bearings or check to be sure they are tight?

I did check the spanner nut behind the front bearings and it seems tight, but I am wondering just how one knows when it is tight enough. ( and how to actually tighten it, in there )


ZK: Is the the test bar threaded for a drawbar or just lightly tapped to seat it? Just got my loaner Peterson test bar a few days ago and have not even taken it out if the oiled wrapper. Million other thing going on..... We all need more time in the day

Hi gernoff - Boy howdy! You ain't just whistlin' Dixie, there! I could use another 6-8 per day... No, this test bar is not tapped in the rear. It is a borrowed one as well so I cannot modify it.

This is very good news as it is good to see I am not the only one who had lots of fun aligning the headstock :D
It is even better when the headstock moves slightly when you tighten the bolts down.
Took me a few days of a few hours here and there. But I ended up getting it nice.
Also watch it does not hit on the quick change gearbox. With a ground bed, it will be higher then it was before as well.

RC99 - Haha! Cheers, mate. Some club members can recognize other club members from across the field, it would seem. :cheers: I thought I had checked to see if it was hitting the gear box, but obviously I have missed something. I will report back with what it is when I find it.


Zahnrad,
Looks like you are doing a fine job of it..
Getting .0002 or so be sure to turn the spindle 180 on the bar so you might take the average.

Plus I like to blue up a test bar and test the taper 180 apart. Have found a small hone-able bug that can throw at test off a tad.

Thanks, Buck. But all evidence to the contrary right now. Yes, though - I am bluing and rotating the bar to average the difference.



I think Z is going to raise the TS after and he will align the TS to the HS via test bar I think.

Yes, Sir. You are correct. :)

You can see in the Moore Book they use the Last Word indicator. We would flick the indicator with our finger to be sure it was touching when we got it super close.

Ha! I am always tapping my clock faces to get see if they move... :)

Aww, Richard It was only .00013 low at 14" and I was tired after all that scraping. :D Bob

Yeah... this is a lot like work... :nutter:

Thanks, all. Looking forward to hearing more.
 
Zahnrad,
Looks like you are doing a fine job of it..
Getting .0002 or so be sure to turn the spindle 180 on the bar so you might take the average.

Point, but .. getting close to where the bearings themselves hit their specified TIR range.

Just how good ARE these particular bearings right now?

Bill
 
I am not the scraper hand so mostly just guessing but it seems to me that some limit needs to be given because exact zero is a fantisy. So the 0 - .0004 and the 0 - .0002 is in the interest of better of direction of that limit. If one had a choice better that way than the other. Certanily .00005 to straight horizontal and verticle would be best if acheivable and easy.. Yes IMHO just thinking out loude.

Still another point in some machine design is considering likely wear might tend something to go this way or that, so the square and straight limits might lend to keeping the machine square and straight longer considering normal wear.

Sorry to say but I have never ran a tenthes close lathe.. never even used that term with them. A half thousandths was the smallest term and that came with a file or cloth.. (Yes I have run close parts (even to tenths) on a lathe but not off the dials.
 
Monarch may be able to give you the preload spec for the spindle bearings. Usually it's set for "rolling torque" like a rear end on a car. Probably somewhere between 5 and 20 in-lbs. I've seen big spindles as high as 150 in-lbs.
 
You got the book with spec's, you have the scraping training, you have the brains to do it, you have the ability but now you need to stop asking "how to" and just "do it".

As far are as the steady rest goes. Did you scrape the bottom of it to the bed? Are you using a torgue wrench when tightening the nut? Have you ever seen anyone in the world do it that way before? I know I never have and never will (accept you). I told you about the Director of Mechanical Engineering at PMC who took my scraping class. He had 3 PHD's in different types of engineering and I had to fail him when he took the class. The reason being he was trying to figure out "why" it was doing this and that. He was going nuts as he was so analytical he could not get it. He was told or ordered to stop thinking about it and do it. The next trip he came over and scraped on a part for a day and he did it like a pro and I gave him the thumbs up. His boss said he was so depressed and embarrassed because he had never failed at any class. He stayed after work each day for weeks working on that part until he got it. He told me after he had to switch off the brain and just do it.

Have you ever thought about the first 4 letters of analytical is the same as your butt hole ?? Yes I think your being a bit anal worrying about it before it happens. You can talk and think and ask us for help, but GD-it do it!! Cash must be frustrated as heck with you. LOL. To all KZ took the Rockford class and I have never met anyone who is so strong, bumping into him was like walking into a cement wall. When everyone one else got 20 PPI he said I want to scrape 40 PPI, as everyone started their projects he kept scraping his practice part.

I admire his work to be perfect, to be the best, but as either Buck or Bill points out how can you achieve perfection on a mechanical device? My friend and one of my best students ever Matt C said KZ is the smartest man he has ever met. Some advice from me, in order to be a good rebuilder you need to do several machines over a number of years to achieve close to perfection. Think back when you were first starting out as a machinist, were you perfect? Have a great weekend. Rich
 
After a bout a dozen scraping cycles on the bottom of the headstock, I determined there must be a better way. One of the problems I had is that after the ways were ground, they were smaller than the mating ways on the bottom of the headstock. How do you remove more metal to make up for less metal? Moglice was the answer. I bed that puppy in like glass bedding a rifle stock, and the alignment has not changed in ten years to the best of my measuring ability.
 








 
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