guythatbrews
Titanium
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2017
- Location
- MO, USA
First let me say I wish I would have seen this forum before I got my 10ee. What a trove of info! I think Right away you all helped with the MG troubles. Easy peasy! Thanks!
I got lucky judging by some of the horror stories I've read here. She seems to be in pretty good shape so far. Getting stuff in line for painting. In that process i will check all the common apron troubles, remove the gearbox to reseal the oil drools, and flush the headstock. Of course referring to the info graciously provided by the intrepid souls that have proceeded me!
The tailstock is about .010 TIR low but is parallel to axis within .001 or so. Lucky on the parallel! Somebody had replaced the monarch oil cup for the tailstock ways with a ball oiler. But it just wouldn't take oil. Cleaning the thick crud from the ports in the tstock flat and vee didn't help. Took the tstock apart and it had been brass shimmed with maybe .002 shimstock (didn't actually measure it). The old boy did a fine job except he blocked the path from the oiler to the sump that feeds the ways. No wonder it wouldn't take oil! I am lucky it is only .005 or so low now with no lube reaching the ways. They must not have run it much after the shimming.
I will replace the ball oiler with a gits cup. I always think the ball oilers admit a little dirt each oiling because you just can't get all the tiny crap cleaned off. And I think I will add cup on the far side of the tailstock directly over the base oil hole for the far way, and put a big funnelly chamfer on both base oil holes. So the oil falls right into the spot instead of a big sump. The cups are not vintage monarch and not very pretty and not monarch cool but frankly i kinda dislike unscrewing those neat little monarch oilers for frequent oiling spots. And I'd have to make one anyway since they are not available. And if a future soul wants he can just plug my far side 5/16 drilled hole and put it back the original way.
Greg
I got lucky judging by some of the horror stories I've read here. She seems to be in pretty good shape so far. Getting stuff in line for painting. In that process i will check all the common apron troubles, remove the gearbox to reseal the oil drools, and flush the headstock. Of course referring to the info graciously provided by the intrepid souls that have proceeded me!
The tailstock is about .010 TIR low but is parallel to axis within .001 or so. Lucky on the parallel! Somebody had replaced the monarch oil cup for the tailstock ways with a ball oiler. But it just wouldn't take oil. Cleaning the thick crud from the ports in the tstock flat and vee didn't help. Took the tstock apart and it had been brass shimmed with maybe .002 shimstock (didn't actually measure it). The old boy did a fine job except he blocked the path from the oiler to the sump that feeds the ways. No wonder it wouldn't take oil! I am lucky it is only .005 or so low now with no lube reaching the ways. They must not have run it much after the shimming.
I will replace the ball oiler with a gits cup. I always think the ball oilers admit a little dirt each oiling because you just can't get all the tiny crap cleaned off. And I think I will add cup on the far side of the tailstock directly over the base oil hole for the far way, and put a big funnelly chamfer on both base oil holes. So the oil falls right into the spot instead of a big sump. The cups are not vintage monarch and not very pretty and not monarch cool but frankly i kinda dislike unscrewing those neat little monarch oilers for frequent oiling spots. And I'd have to make one anyway since they are not available. And if a future soul wants he can just plug my far side 5/16 drilled hole and put it back the original way.
Greg
