10EE taper attachment instructions

I'm fairly new to lathes...about a year of hacking and trying to figure out things on my own, making small masters for pewter castings made in vulcanized rubber molds (for HO trains).
Anyway...we have a 10EE (1952 vintage) at work I have been cleaing up and getting running and I started to clean up the taper attachment. I figured I could figure out how it worked by taking it apart, cleaning up the the dials, and scales, putting it back together, and....well that didn't help...can I get some help explaining how it works? thanks in advance...

The thread which begins Here will take you from external views to the patent drawings themselves.

There are non-telescopic as well as telescopic taper attachments, and a search of this Forum should turn up some supplementary information.

Are you looking for just the taper attachment instructions?

Yes, I really don't understand how to operate it...

OK, assuming that you have a '52 square dial there's a couple of spots to look at. On the cross slide there should be a square head bolt in front of the compound - that locks the cross slide to the taper drawbar. The drawbar is the bar that the cross slide nut is attached to on the rear of the cross slide, and the drawbar is normally locked by the nut on the back of the taper attachment (it's chrome with 2 flats, takes a 9/16 wrench).

In normal operation the drawbar is locked on the back of the taper attachment, and loose on the cross slide. When the cross feed screw is operated it draws the cross slide and slides the lock over the drawbar.

In operation the drawbar is locked to the cross slide by locking the drawbar clamp screw in front of the compound, and allowed to be moved buy the shoe in the taper by unlocking the drawbar clamp on the back of the taper attachment. Once this is done the bar that holds the taper slide fixed relative to the bed can be locked using the bed clamp, and when the carriage is moved up and down the bed the cross slide will follow the shoe moving in the taper slide.

Make sure that the slide area is clean before moving the shoe, and that you can move the slide back and forth and see some movement of the cross slide before you lock things to the bed.

I think that the taper attachment is the highest maintenance item on the 10EE lathe, and one of the least understood. I don't think I really understood how to use it until I had to rebuild it - a common event with the taper attachment and it's 8 ball bearings usually rusted up.

wow thanks...I',m with you up to the point where you say to lock the bed clamp....I'm confused about how the shoe can move in it's guide when it is all tied to the carriage. BTW everything looks like it it all freed up...
Can the taper be cut manually or does it have to be done using the motorized feeds?
thanks again for your help...

I',m with you up to the point where you say to lock the bed clamp

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The taper has 4 major assemblies. At the bottom is the body, riding in that is the slide, pivoting on that is the swivel and riding in the swivel is the shoe.

The shoe connects at the top with the drawbar.

The body and shoe travel with the saddle, the shoe moves in & out to make the cross slide move. To move the shoe the swivel is pivoted (and is conveniently marked on one end, even has a nice magnifier over the grads) and clamped on the slide and - crucially - the slide is held in position on the lathe bed with the taper clamp. The taper clamp connects to the slide with a 2' 3/8 rod that is threaded on each end, one end connects to a dingus off the bottom of the slide and the other slides into a slot on the bed clamp.

So the slide remains in a fixed position on the bed while the body and shoe move up and down the bed, the shoe moving in & out on the swivel to move the cross slide.

I extracted a couple of pages from the manual that show the mechanism, I'll reduce the image size in a couple of days to reduce traffic on my site, but these should give you a good idea how it all goes together.

I should have done this at the beginning - here are the instructions from the manual. It might be a good idea to call Monarch and get a manual set for your serial # lathe - it'll have everything you need in it.

With reference to Unit EE 15, Sheet 113, part EE 1548 is that casting which is often broken should the bed bracket and connecting rod not be removed prior to dismounting the taper attachment.

Oh! I'm missing the rod ! Thanks for the info I'll let you know how I make out...really appreciate the help thanks!

That did it! Thanks again for the help, I know it takes a lot of time to make a post like you did and I really do appreciate it.

you mentioned calling Monarch for a manual...I can't find them on the web, do have their number?

I can't find them on the web, do have their number?

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Monarch Lathe: 937 492 4111

On 11/02/05 I posted an inquiry that included how to accurately set the taper angle on a round dial EE. Got interesting answers, but not until this post did I reallize that there is a Vernier Housing for precision adjustments. My lathe is missing this feature. Anyone have a spare they would part with?

Monarch's web cite is here;
http://www.lucasprecision.com/monarch/index.htm
Harry

Yes, it would be hard to adjust the taper attachment without the little gear drive gizmo with knob.
Cant recall ever seing one for sale anywhere, hopefully Monarch would have one.

Anyone have a spare they would part with?

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They appear occasionally on eBay, but when they're properly identified they tend to sell for fairly high prices. Somewhere around here I have the specs for the gear train, it wouldn't be all that hard to put one together and it is designed to simply bolt on the end of the slide.

rke[pler said:

They appear occasionally on eBay, but when they're properly identified they tend to sell for fairly high prices. Somewhere around here I have the specs for the gear train, it wouldn't be all that hard to put one together and it is designed to simply bolt on the end of the slide.

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Thanks for this very good post. Did you ever post these specs? I need to build one for my lathe. Thanks

Harry Bloom wrote up his build here:

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/monarch-lathes/wreck-update-146913/index7.html#post1325956

(It's post #214 in that thread, I can't make the link work)

I think from his description and the gear specs you could build a vernier.