My brother the engineer has been holding my hand and leading me through the darkness. We {he} found the main 5 amp fuse had been disrupted. He had me check the power source and thinks there is a problem with the input wiring so I'm going to have an electrician I trust come out and take a look before going any further.
To answer your question about what happens when I turn the machine on - nothing. No green light, fan, or warm up relay start to rotate. I don't want to replace the fuse and try something else before I know the power source has been wired correctly. So there may be a bit of a delay before I can check any thing else.
Thank you all for your interest and help! It is greatly appreciated. Don Hansen.
Coupla points for your sparks to know ahead of time:
- broken wires in the conduit runs are so uncommon I recall none.
- broken wires at a crimp terminal, or failed termination, we have seen now and then.
- broken wires have now and then been found on the DC panel, usual at the backside or where passed through.
- Motor control switches include some safety features. Their 'sections" have cams that wear, switch contacts or microswitches as do the same. So, too the wiring to, and contacts on, the primary power switch, left and down of the carriage, front of HS casting, "naked" contacts inside and of a "WTF WERE they thinking???" archaic design.
- ELSR - if even you HAVE it, is also "in the loop" as to permitting final-drive motor turns to be made (but not MG or hollow-state bottles - those stay live).
- later 10EE can also have reduction gear shifter interlocks, and spindle-lock switches. Your one may have neither, but it is worth a recce to confirm that.
- 10EE are old enough - ALL of them - to perhaps have had one - or more than one - field-expedient monkey-patch or even the most professionally executed of DoD // Contractor or other "Big Corp" owner re-furb, upgrades - even just adding an "E-Stop" or two. Any of those, if you have such, can complicate troubleshooting, as they won't match the original as-built schematics from Monarch. Not unless it was one of THEIR OWN re-furbs, anyway.
CAVEATS: 10EE's predated reduced-hazard 24 Volt control loops. Expect 115 Volts and stick-and-fry Dee CEE, at that.
Good clip-ons recommended, place 'em disconnected, read live power only and ever "no-hands." Live longer that way.
Digging about with meter leads with bare pin tips is an invitation to blowing their pointy little tips clear off with blinding pyrotechnics, even if one avoids being rectum-fried.
Once sorted, "passively", any "live" test gear wants to be 600 V rated MINIMUM, 1200+ is better
(I use higher-yet-voltage probes for the 'scope that cost more than the 'scope did).
Slowing or reversing a seriously
inductive Dee Cee motor, contactor controlled, can generate industrial-class energy spikes easily four or five times its operating Armature voltage. Worse, they can actually have quite a bit of "energy under the curve".
Not rocket science. Really OLD tech, actually. But tech to be respected and approached with utmost care.
"Lethal Voltages" y'see. DC side even more than AC side.
Work safe. Live long and prosper.
2CW