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10ee vfd questions

Latesurfrat

Plastic
Joined
Jun 1, 2017
Location
Hampstead
Hi guys new to the site. I just got a 1944 monarch 10ee off of cragslist. I never saw it run but was told it did. I would like to leave the MG system in tact if possible. I saw a lot of post about taking the guts out of it and just sticking a 3 phase motor in and a vfd on the machine.

Now on to my question couldn't I just put the vfd right on the 3 phase motor that runs the dc genartor?
Something like this.
TOP 22V 7.5KW 1HP 34A VFD VARIABLE FREQUENCY DRIVE INVERTER CE QUALITY | eBay

I know my other opinion is a rotary phase converter but that's a little above my budget.
 
Hi guys new to the site. I just got a 1944 monarch 10ee off of cragslist. I never saw it run but was told it did. I would like to leave the MG system in tact if possible. I saw a lot of post about taking the guts out of it and just sticking a 3 phase motor in and a vfd on the machine.

Now on to my question couldn't I just put the vfd right on the 3 phase motor that runs the dc genartor?
Something like this.
TOP 22V 7.5KW 1HP 34A VFD VARIABLE FREQUENCY DRIVE INVERTER CE QUALITY | eBay

I know my other opinion is a rotary phase converter but that's a little above my budget.
I don't know of anyone using a VFD to power a 10EE's motor/generator (MG). If I recall correctly, not all VFDs put out a good honest 220 Volts RMS. (I want to say that 180 Volts RMS is typical). If you run the MG at too low a voltage it may overheat.

If you're on a budget, you might want to try using a so-called static phase converter (SPC). I know of several SPCs in use. Bob49 is using a 5-8HP Phase-a-Matic SPC on his 10EE:
An SPC is nothing more than a relay, one or more starting capacitors and perhaps includes run capacitors. If it doesn't include run capacitors, it's a good idea to add them. Here's one for $109 with free shipping. I don't know anything about this particular unit (and I have no association with this outfit):
They also sell run capacitors:
And if the time comes that you want a rotary phase converter (RPC), all you need to do is add an idler motor (any 7.5 HPish, 3-phase motor would do) and you have and RPC. Last I checked, the used price for 3-phase motors was less than $10 per HP.

Cal
 
I don't know of anyone using a VFD to power a 10EE's motor/generator (MG). If I recall correctly, not all VFDs put out a good honest 220 Volts RMS. (I want to say that 180 Volts RMS is typical). If you run the MG at too low a voltage it may overheat.

If you're on a budget, you might want to try using a so-called static phase converter (SPC). I know of several SPCs in use. Bob49 is using a 5-8HP Phase-a-Matic SPC on his 10EE:
An SPC is nothing more than a relay, one or more starting capacitors and perhaps includes run capacitors. If it doesn't include run capacitors, it's a good idea to add them. Here's one for $109 with free shipping. I don't know anything about this particular unit (and I have no association with this outfit):
They also sell run capacitors:
And if the time comes that you want a rotary phase converter (RPC), all you need to do is add an idler motor (any 7.5 HPish, 3-phase motor would do) and you have and RPC. Last I checked, the used price for 3-phase motors was less than $10 per HP.

Cal
Nope you are thinking DC motor control. All VFD's i have used put out 3p 220 vac.
 
Hi guys new to the site. I just got a 1944 monarch 10ee off of cragslist. I never saw it run but was told it did. I would like to leave the MG system in tact if possible.
That works. It turns almost half of the power out of the wall into noise and heat, BUT.. has the smoothest performance of any 'factory OEM' 10EE.

Dunno WHERE in MD you are, but if you'd like a 100% spare piggyback-exciter MG and a set of those training-potty seat sized Ohmite pots for it, I'd be pleased to have them carried away for the scarce space they would free-up here.

I found converting to Eurotherm/Parker-SSD Solid State DC drive more to my liking than VFD.

Also less WORK, once we finally sorted that all that change really needed was to follow the SSD's "Fine Manual" precisely.

The "Steelman-Haas" re-wire BTW doesn't so much lose power as it loses a tad to efficiency vs native 3-Phase. Even so, not a show stopper atall, as 'bespoke' as it is, it can drive the 10EE at the full 100% and a bit, output side, whereas an external general-purpose RPC usually hits the wall around 90%, even if a rather GOOD one.
 
That works. It turns almost half of the power out of the wall into noise and heat, BUT.. has the smoothest performance of any 'factory OEM' 10EE.

Dunno WHERE in MD you are, but if you'd like a 100% spare piggyback-exciter MG and a set of those training-potty seat sized Ohmite pots for it, I'd be pleased to have them carried away for the scarce space they would free-up here.

I found converting to Eurotherm/Parker-SSD Solid State DC drive more to my liking than VFD.

Also less WORK, once we finally sorted that all that change really needed was to follow the SSD's "Fine Manual" precisely.

The "Steelman-Haas" re-wire BTW doesn't so much lose power as it loses a tad to efficiency vs native 3-Phase. Even so, not a show stopper atall, as 'bespoke' as it is, it can drive the 10EE at the full 100% and a bit, output side, whereas an external general-purpose RPC usually hits the wall around 90%, even if a rather GOOD one.

I'm in Hampstead near westminster. I was looking at the "Steelman-Haas" approach and I just don't feel comfortable ripping the motor apart.



I don't know of anyone using a VFD to power a 10EE's motor/generator (MG). If I recall correctly, not all VFDs put out a good honest 220 Volts RMS. (I want to say that 180 Volts RMS is typical). If you run the MG at too low a voltage it may overheat.

If you're on a budget, you might want to try using a so-called static phase converter (SPC). I know of several SPCs in use. Bob49 is using a 5-8HP Phase-a-Matic SPC on his 10EE:
An SPC is nothing more than a relay, one or more starting capacitors and perhaps includes run capacitors. If it doesn't include run capacitors, it's a good idea to add them. Here's one for $109 with free shipping. I don't know anything about this particular unit (and I have no association with this outfit):
They also sell run capacitors:
And if the time comes that you want a rotary phase converter (RPC), all you need to do is add an idler motor (any 7.5 HPish, 3-phase motor would do) and you have and RPC. Last I checked, the used price for 3-phase motors was less than $10 per HP.

Cal

Thank you for your response. I guess now I have more homework and thinking to do.
 
Here's a picture of my 10ee. She is a 1944 model. That's just about all I know about this machine. It was also originally bought by the US Navy. It has the taper attachment but I'm missing some parts
IMG_0094.jpg
What is this box for what does it do?
IMG_0098.jpg

IMG_0102.jpg
I'm just as lost by what all of this is for this is on the back of the machine right below the head stock
IMG_0097.jpg
 
What is this box for what does it do?

Looks like a start switch with some overloads, might be for something the navy attached. Where do the wires all go?


I'm just as lost by what all of this is for this is on the back of the machine right below the head stock

Main power contactor and (near the bottom painted white) coolant pump power switch.

I'll add that the reason for a contactor is to switch a lot of power and for the power to not return after a power failure. You don't want machinery starting on it's own if the power fails and you walk away before it returns, and your switching under the headstock controls this contactor (the start button closes the contactor, the off opens the hold circuit on the contactor to open it).
 








 
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