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1943 16" cy

Bret Rochotte

Cast Iron
Joined
Mar 8, 2008
Location
New Bremen, Ohio
Made a deal on this today, I'm pumped! The guys that have it want it gone. I hope to have it hauled to my place in the next month or so. Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics.
Monarch 3.jpg
Monarch 4.jpg
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Can email CW manual scan - which is close but not exact - if you want to PM me your email address

CY has lead screw reverse on apron, CW does not
 
A little butterfly (Monarch) landed in my shop today. Borrowed a drop deck trailer and rolled it on pipes. Need to clean it and get to know it. I noticed some "clunking" when set to low spindle speeds turning the chuck by hand. May have some issues. I hope not.
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I've been working on the lathe and have a few questions. The clutch pulley bearing calls for annual lubrication, but where do you actually put the grease? I removed the cover and wiped off what I thought was a zerk turned out to be a square head set screw. Next question; the linkage for the spindle clutch has some slop in it, not moving clutch fully left/right. Any one ever have this apart and can give me some guidance? Lead screw will only turn one way, as if you were going to cut left hand threads. How do you get it to go the opposite direction? My motor bearings are bad, any thoughts on DIY bearing overhaul, or should I just take it to a motor shop? Thanks
 
Your machine appears to have apron mounted lead screw reverse but I don't see the control lever for it. It should be right above the thread dial. There are 2 collars on that rod, one each side of the carriage, to kick out the feed or lead screws. Snug up the right one against the carriage and feed into it, it should kick your feed/lead screw into neutral.

The clutch control linkage has lots of pivots, they could probably use to be re-bushed after all these years. Also, the carriage mounted lever rides that square shaft constantly and is prone to wear. It can be shimmed somewhat back true. Best would be to install and bronze bushing.
 
Yes the lead screw reverse rod is on the right side of the apron. I am working on the quadrant now and it looks like Fred Flintstone has been in there with a sledge. The gears on the quadrant were not meshing correctly.DSC_5646.jpgDSC_5647.jpgDSC_5648.jpg
Some clown beat on the quadrant don't know why. The shift lever has so much slop it needs to go past the detent to move the clutch. Pulling the spindle seems daunting right now. I am going to find a freind locally that can help. Sidney is only 25 miles from here, maybe someone is still around that could help.
 
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It looks someone has repaired the spindle clutch linkage sometime in the past. There is lost motion but not on any of the shafts so I made some eccentric studs so the shift levers will position the clutch where it needs to be. Might be cheating, but it will work.0219192123-00.jpg
 
Man that is nice. My fix for years has been to just drop in a wooden wedge - between where its supposed to be and the lever:D

It looks someone has repaired the spindle clutch linkage sometime in the past. There is lost motion but not on any of the shafts so I made some eccentric studs so the shift levers will position the clutch where it needs to be. Might be cheating, but it will work.View attachment 250407
 
Apron Oiler

The Bijur on the apron isn't pumping oil. I replaced the filter, and confirmed the check ball is working. The plunger and bore must be worn thus no suction. I presume it needs to create neg pressure to overcome the spring on the check valve. Has anyone fixed one of these? Ream the bore and make an over sized plunger?0223192031-00.jpg
 
Are the output lines clean? Oil in apron? That piston should pump unless it is something like 1/8" smaller than bore. Is there noticeable wear? I think it is driven off an eccentric, did Fred Flintstone hit that with his hammer?
 
That piston should pump unless it is something like 1/8" smaller than bore.

This was very helpful, thank you. The pump is out of the apron. With the sump inserted into a pan of oil and me manually pumping the lever there is no discharge from the output. So I covered the outflow with my finger as I depressed the plunger and viola, oil starts pumping. I have not checked the lines for patency yet. I removed the pump to flush out the bottom of the apron and check the screens. I replaced the felt. Ready to put the pump back in, and then move on to the headstock oiler. Thanks,

Bret
 
Glad to help. I have some manzel oilers that use similar pumps to lube equipment, very loose and worn is fine for them. I also have 16" cw but have not needed to go into the apron yet.
 
It looks someone has repaired the spindle clutch linkage sometime in the past. There is lost motion but not on any of the shafts so I made some eccentric studs so the shift levers will position the clutch where it needs to be. Might be cheating, but it will work.View attachment 250407

I rebuilding the exact same lathe, CY 16 1943 30". This is the same condition mine is in. The far right pin is made on an eccentric. I was looking into adjusting the shifting forks but there is no way to correct this problem except re drilling the pin or making it eccentric. Must be a typical fix.
 
The Bijur on the apron isn't pumping oil. I replaced the filter, and confirmed the check ball is working. The plunger and bore must be worn thus no suction. I presume it needs to create neg pressure to overcome the spring on the check valve. Has anyone fixed one of these? Ream the bore and make an over sized plunger?View attachment 250579

Just took my pump apart as well. Mine doesn't sound like it is nearly as worn as yours. Very important to make sure your filter felt is replaced and the fine screen is clear. I found that if you but your fine screen under a flame and let it burn off the dirt, it cleans up nicely. Don't let it get too hot. it burn for a second, then blow out, let it burn another second, then burn out. Or you can buy new screen from McMaster...
 
A little butterfly (Monarch) landed in my shop today. Borrowed a drop deck trailer and rolled it on pipes. Need to clean it and get to know it. I noticed some "clunking" when set to low spindle speeds turning the chuck by hand. May have some issues. I hope not.
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Bought mine last year. In the midst of a rebuild myself. Let me know if you need anything or if you have anything to offer in the way of advise.

I just spent $900 for a new Class 3 842/832 Timken spindle bearing. I'm looking for a 558A/552A Timken Class 3 Bearing for the rear of the spindle.

Good luck!
 
No spam intended, I’m trying to find a apron pump as when I went to take mine off to clean it’s wasnt there!
Even A nasty one to copy would be good
 
WillWilly;

I have found your thread and this one helpful:
Monarch 16" CY - help
The links to Aj's spindle removal docs no longer work, but I emailed him and he responded and sent me a copy. That will be helpful when I decide to remove my spindle. I'm just cleaning and making sure lubrication is up to snuff.
 








 
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