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1954 series 60/61 catalog size 13"

draglineguy

Plastic
Joined
Dec 9, 2012
Location
Wi, USA
Looking to find somebody that could help me out with the rod for the taper attachment, for mine is broke off at the end where it bolts on. Want to make another one but don't know the length or size ,thank you Mike.
 
Make it long enough so carriage does not bump into T/A bed clamp but still allows using all the available travel of the T/A

Certainly not in the least critical as long as it does these two things
 
I'll try and get some measurements tomorrow.
The part that worried me is the casting (attached with 2 bolts and 2 pins) that the rod threads into. I found a replacement, but of course the pin locations don't line up. Threaded rod is just a simple, straightforward shaft as far as I remember.
I also need to make the clamp.
I'm with the idea of just bolting it on without any tapered pins, or adding one new pin location after bolting down.
 
I'm with the idea of just bolting it on without any tapered pins, or adding one new pin location after bolting down.

"In theory" the rod length need not be exact to generate "some form of" taper.

In practice, it DOES need to be - if the graduations on the TA are to produce what is expected.

Absent specific info, I'd be tempted to make a rough clamp that could grasp the bed, per usual, but also allow the (trial) rod to be slid and clamped.

Experimentation with measuring goods, not wasted metal, and you should be able to "find" the length that works properly with the graduations. THEN you can plan and make a nicer clamp and rod.

I was fortunate that a PM member has made clamps and rods for the 10EE that were a spot-on, drop-in fit. I'd bet that the SB crowd have long had such options as well, but otherwise - not enough volume.

2CW
 
Looking to find somebody that could help me out with the rod for the taper attachment, for mine is broke off at the end where it bolts on. Want to make another one but don't know the length or size ,thank you Mike.

You're looking for the rod that goes from the bottom of the slide to the bed clamp, right? If that's the case anything that gives you enough travel of the slide from end to end w/o the taper casting hitting the bed clamp would be OK. So - something about 1.5x the length of the slide should be OK.

Is the casting that clamps to the slide broken after the portion that's threaded for the rod? Does your taper attachment look anything like this Model 62's?

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60_fig_gg_taper_attachment.jpg

 
"In theory" the rod length need not be exact to generate "some form of" taper.

In practice, it DOES need to be - if the graduations on the TA are to produce what is expected.

I don't see how the length of the rod can have anything to do with the taper generated - all it does on all the taper attachments I've played with is to serve as an anchor to hold the slide in one position relative to the saddle. So long as the rod is held parallel to the lathe bed and unmoving on the bed length you should get a consistent taper.

(I'm ignoring the 'variator' types that end up employing a gear rack in the 'rod' to modify the traper slide travel to something not equal to the saddle travel on the bed.)
 
(I'm ignoring the 'variator' types that end up employing a gear rack in the 'rod' to modify the traper slide travel to something not equal to the saddle travel on the bed.)

Monarchs did use "variator" types now and then. Perhaps more than most other makers did.

Regardless - if one must DIY, I still vote for starting with adjustability, both places, so travel, clearances, etc. can be sorted before going final. Not as if it were all that big a deal to fab - or adapt - a temporary clamp.
 
Here's pics of the taper rod. Note that it is pinned into the cast piece. It looks like 7/8" fine thread.

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Last picture shows my broken piece next to the good one. This is what I was referring to earlier about taper pins being used (and obviously not lining up when switched to another machine). I'm thinking of not using pins at all.
 
Looks like the one on my August 1946 CW16 X 102 - except no pins

(Ball bearing T/A here - don't know if all of them had that or not)
 

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Looks like the one on my August 1946 CW16 X 102 - except no pins

(Ball bearing T/A here - don't know if all of them had that or not)

What does the clamp end look like? The Model 612 has something that looks like a half cotter while the rod pictured earlier seems to have something like the 10EE "clamping thumb nut" system except with 2 nots on each side.

As for pinning - I can't see a reason for it. I'd leave the bolts holding the part loose until the far end is in place, then tighten up the bolts to fix it.

I'm pretty sure that all the taper attachments have ball bearings. Lots and lots of ball bearings. 12 (I think) in the one in the picture
 
Pics 2,3,and 4 pretty much shows it. We jacked it up and drove the truck out and then jacked and lowered it one or two 2" x 4"'s at a time. It was definitely a time consuming and sphincter tightening process as everything seemed shakey while it was in the air. I calmed down as it got closer to the floor. I don't have a forklift at this shop yet so I did it this way. When I build my shop it will most definitely have an overhead crane. Matt, I got those (Simplex 10 tons, 4 of them) at an auction for about $300. I considered that a home run!
 








 
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