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Anybody ever put a digital scale on a 10EE tailstock?

Alberic

Cast Iron
Joined
Jan 15, 2011
Location
SF Bay
HI Guys,

I'm contemplating something that may be either heresy, or blasphemy, depending on who you talk to, but it seems useful: putting a digital scale on the quill of my 10EE tailstock. (like a digital caliper, without the measuring arms.)
Anybody done this, and have any acquired wisdom to pass on? (as in: where best to put it, where not to drill to anchor it, etc.)

My plan, such as it is, is to make an aluminum collar that grabs the working end of the quill, and anchors one end of the thing, and then make some sort of matching saddle that rides the top of the tailstock, and anchors the other end.
Probably holding the thing tilted at an angle, just to make it easier to read.

I've already got a DRO on the main axes, but there are some things where it'd be handy to know exactly how deep the drill went.

It's Oldster's old machine, so it's a '54 square dial. He had a couple of the little independent digital scales kicking around, and we'd talked about doing it, but never got the time. I may not get the time any time soon, but the more I use the thing for quickie production, the more I want to get a scale on the TS. Pretty much exactly Lee's progression too.

Any advice gladly received.
Regards,
Brian
 
HI Guys,

I'm contemplating something that may be either heresy, or blasphemy, depending on who you talk to, but it seems useful: putting a digital scale on the quill of my 10EE tailstock. (like a digital caliper, without the measuring arms.)
Anybody done this, and have any acquired wisdom to pass on? (as in: where best to put it, where not to drill to anchor it, etc.)

My plan, such as it is, is to make an aluminum collar that grabs the working end of the quill, and anchors one end of the thing, and then make some sort of matching saddle that rides the top of the tailstock, and anchors the other end.
Probably holding the thing tilted at an angle, just to make it easier to read.

I've already got a DRO on the main axes, but there are some things where it'd be handy to know exactly how deep the drill went.

It's Oldster's old machine, so it's a '54 square dial. He had a couple of the little independent digital scales kicking around, and we'd talked about doing it, but never got the time. I may not get the time any time soon, but the more I use the thing for quickie production, the more I want to get a scale on the TS. Pretty much exactly Lee's progression too.

Any advice gladly received.
Regards,
Brian

I have done it several times, There are photos posted here somewhere. I used a Mitutoyo digital caliper, cut off the jaws, drill a 3/16 hole 3/16 from the end on center. Make a bracket of 3/8 aluminum, machine a hole on size to fit the quill, split it and use a 10-32 socket head cap screw to tighten it to the quill. cut it to the proper height to clear the TS then drill and tap the end 10-32 to bolt the caliper to it. The other end is a simple block about 1 1/4 long, 3/8 thick profiled to fit the tail stock. split it lengthwise and drill a .190 hole through. The bolt through this hole pinches the the depth tang on the caliper to anchor it to the TS, Drill and tap the TS for this bolt. If you use coolant use a coolant proof caliper, it takes about 1 drop of Blauser to shut down a standard mitutoyo caliper.
 
Hi Moonlight,

Many thanks. That's about what I figured, I just wanted to check to see if there were any boobytraps to avoid.
After that....(looooong after that) comes figuring out what's wrong with the threading gearbox....
(It works just fine in feed mode, but sounds like a rock crusher in thread mode. Given as I single point...somewhat less often than never, and have other machines that can, it's not a big deal, but...)

Regards,
Brian

PS--> Anybody have a memory of the name of the thread with the pictures of the scale mount? I've looked under all the obvious things, and not found it.
 
PS--> Anybody have a memory of the name of the thread with the pictures of the scale mount? I've looked under all the obvious things, and not found it.

ISTR it was a side-issue buried in a thread on some other subject, so good as the info and photos are, you may have to Google for it.

Unless.. one or more of those who have done it sees THIS thread and chimes-in.

End of the day, it is pretty much lathe-brand agnostic as - Schaublin or Cazeneuve capstans aside - MOST lathe TS are very much alike, and all good examples can serve to guide your efforts.
 
I was watching this video on YouTube a day or so ago. Careful of his methods, he sometimes uses questionable setups and makes a few mistakes but this one is a no drill tailstock DRO using a digital caliper.

Monarch 1EE Tailstock DRO - YouTube

So if you can't drill with it what good is it? I don't understand the cheap ass hf caliper, why put the work into junk. I use Mitutoyo only, brand new ones, coolant proof is best. What is with the death wheel in the surface grinder? Put that baby in your 90* air grinder and lop those jaws off in about a minute. Seems like most of the guys on u tube don't really have a clue.
 
HI Guys,

I'm contemplating something that may be either heresy, or blasphemy, depending on who you talk to, but it seems useful:

Not really all THAT useful to most folks or more would do it, and more lathes wudda shipped WITH it. For starters, "locked down" TS's still tend to move too easily.

If you have a genuine need, look into putting the effort into providing for drilling from the carriage - generally better anyway - then do "the usual" w/r fitting a DRO for cross & longitudinal readout. That addresses more than one need in a single go.

Otherwise.. most needs can be served by simply adding handier lugs or pins so a measuring device can be applied WITHOUT need of dedicating it to (semi) permanent attachment to the TS. Less need of full-time protection from damage that way, too.
 








 
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