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Anyone have a schematic for this? Trying to figure out which wires to use to connec

vdrum4250

Aluminum
Joined
Apr 16, 2017
The lathe works. When plugged into a 3 phase 20 amp outlet. I want to change to a 30 amp plug to a 3 phase Rotary generator. With 10/3 show cable also. Also I want to ground it if I can. As advise or suggestions...
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The lathe works. When plugged into a 3 phase 20 amp outlet. I want to change to a 30 amp plug to a 3 phase Rotary generator. With 10/3 show cable also. Also I want to ground it if I can. As advise or suggestions...
db1a8cb35c8bf44e655ee6a94acd151d.jpg
187f37f9d1a8e34621ab61208f95f9ec.jpg
de0fb9d04cf448b0080b03c21eb45be7.jpg


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Here is the name plate. Also it is a MG setup..
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Here is the name plate. Also it is a MG setup..
4fa14e91de77789bb5a3a45353c688ef.jpg


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Ok i used tester and mapped these 3 wires to the corresponding post on the switch area. Still can't seem to find where they would of grounded this cord to. Any suggestions?
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Ok i used tester and mapped these 3 wires to the corresponding post on the switch area. Still can't seem to find where they would of grounded this cord to. Any suggestions?
3a5ea5b93d8d554757347bc93e3eb9f4.jpg
5b2426ca0f5f6f86380f2b72c8b4e312.jpg


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Getting closer...
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Lots of pictures but I never saw a question. Heaters are probably OK as the main contactor was originally 220V and it doesn't look raped. If the generator end is spinning in the wrong direction swap a couple of the input leads, keeping in mind that you probably want to end up with the wild leg on L3 to avoid strange control problems (it's voltage will fluctuate).
 
Lots of pictures but I never saw a question. Heaters are probably OK as the main contactor was originally 220V and it doesn't look raped. If the generator end is spinning in the wrong direction swap a couple of the input leads, keeping in mind that you probably want to end up with the wild leg on L3 to avoid strange control problems (it's voltage will fluctuate).
Got it to work. Thank you..


Can you help with how the controls work?


Btw. Is it normal that lathe wont start if it's in forward or reverse setting. Seems like it won't start unless I'm in neutral.
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Can you help with how the controls work?

Btw. Is it normal that lathe wont start if it's in forward or reverse setting. Seems like it won't start unless I'm in neutral.

You might have that backwards (or maybe a switch is) since normally you can't run the drive only in neutral. It's thought that the neutral position is for adjusting the ELSR stop positions w/o turning off the lathe.
 
You might have that backwards (or maybe a switch is) since normally you can't run the drive only in neutral. It's thought that the neutral position is for adjusting the ELSR stop positions w/o turning off the lathe.
What I meant is that if the lathe is off. The switch won't fire the MG unless it's in neutral. Sorry if I didn't get that clear

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The drive control has to be in neutral for you to start the MG unit. That's normal operation.
I am get feed to work properly. Change feed speeds, cross feeds also. Forward and backward. But how does thread gear Dial work and thread settings work.

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I am get feed to work properly. Change feed speeds, cross feeds also. Forward and backward. But how does thread gear Dial work and thread settings work.

Drop the tumbler lever and select the thread with the threading dial, re-engage the tumbler.

Set the right hand thread/feed to thread, unlocking the headstock LH/feed/RH knob.

Set the headstock LH/feed/RH knob to thread direction.

Set the left hand feed/thread lever to thread.

Any of the above might require turning the spindle by hand to 'drift' the knob/lever into place. I usually don't go into backgear until this point just so that hand turning the spindle doesn't take so much grunt.

On the apron make sure both feed levers are up. Set for threading by pulling/pushing the feed/thread knob into the center position. This frees up the halfnut lever to allow engagement with the leadscrew.

To return to feed reverse this sequence of operations.
 
Drop the tumbler lever and select the thread with the threading dial, re-engage the tumbler.

Set the right hand thread/feed to thread, unlocking the headstock LH/feed/RH knob.

Set the headstock LH/feed/RH knob to thread direction.

Set the left hand feed/thread lever to thread.

Any of the above might require turning the spindle by hand to 'drift' the knob/lever into place. I usually don't go into backgear until this point just so that hand turning the spindle doesn't take so much grunt.

On the apron make sure both feed levers are up. Set for threading by pulling/pushing the feed/thread knob into the center position. This frees up the halfnut lever to allow engagement with the leadscrew.

To return to feed reverse this sequence of operations.
If I have the electronic return and control on right side. Is the headstock control suppose to move also. I can't seem to rotate at all the headstock dial

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Also I want to ground it if I can.

'Frame Ground" or "PE" (Protective Earth) looks as if you have already sorted.

"Neutral" you probably won't have, nor need. Delta 3-P works well-enough.

The original 120 V worklight on my '42 had but one wire. The other went to the mounting screw of the metal box, thence to the casting and PE. Bad practice then, but there was a War on. Illegal practice, since. Lots of saner ways to power a worklight.
 
Could it be that your 'generated leg' at t'other end of the cord is not where you thunk it were?
I put generated leg on L3. L1 and l2 has real legs... I bought used from a guy that was working with 3 phase straight from Wall. I'm using Rotary. I followed wire all the way to rpc to confirm

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I put generated leg on L3. L1 and l2 has real legs... I bought used from a guy that was working with 3 phase straight from Wall. I'm using Rotary. I followed wire all the way to rpc to confirm

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But the switch in front doesn't seem to be original. No light. Just a rocker type switch. And when I start I have to press and hold on button

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