Thread: Converting 1946 10EE

I work in a shop that has a lot of older CNC equipment going out the door and could rob parts off of them. Does any one know if I could use the motor and drive off the X,Y,or Z axis to convert my 10EE. They have a lot of torque and I was thinking I could just run it open belt with one of them. If it would work I could get the parts for nothing.

Thanks

A spindle motor might be a better bet. The axis motors probably would not have enough power, depending on the size of the machine.

Bill

I really enjoyed reading Macona's posting his conversion of EE with a servo motor...search "Monarch servo" or maybe this link will work:
Retrofit of 10EE Drive to AC Brushless Servo Motor

Macona's servo is still only 2 KW. At 746 watt / hp, that is only 2 2/3 hp. The ability to deliver full torque at low speeds is probably more a function of the drive unit than the motor. Shunt wound or permanent magnet field DC motors will deliver full torque down to stall, although motors not specifically designed for servo use usually "cog", making a jerky motion as the armature coils pass the field. If the motor and power supply had no internal resistance, the motor would hold constant speed at any setting. They don't, so it is necessary to compensate, so called "IR comp", which feeds back current information to the supply to increase the output voltage as the motor is loaded. The primitive compensation in the EE drives, series generator field coils in the MGs and current transformers in the thyratron units, is better than nothing, but far from ideal. DC servo systems typically have motor speed feedback which causes the supply to continually adjust to keep it constant. The motor may seem to be just running along smoothly, but the control is constantly doing a balancing act. As soon as I can get loose from earning a living, I want to further investigate this issue on my lathe, which has a 3 hp motor and Reliance piggyback MG. I think the existing motor can be made to perform much better at low speeds, saving converting to something else. I already have some interesting things working, but there is more to do.

Bill

I'd say either rob parts, or snag the whole machine, and if you can't revitalize and reuse it as-is, find good uses for the other parts.

On the subject of converting the DRIVE of your 10EE, the axis-servos probably aren't up to the task. A 7-10hp 1800rpm motor fitted to a stock backgear box and a salvaged VFD is a better mate. IF you come across a substantial servo, and you give it a bit of belt-reduction, it'd work okay, but as the guys noted, cogging will be the bane.

Cogging? What cogging?

Yank the spindle motor and drive out of it if it is brushless. For that matter yank the axis motors/drives as well if they are brushless too. Might grab any ballscrews while you are at it.

Got a mitsubishi 3.5kw motor to replace that 2 kw. Just got to replace the encoder so I can use an Aerotech drive I picked up for it.

The 2kw will go to replace the 3hp motor on my Supermax mill.

With a servo drive running in velocity mode it will do its darnedness to keep the RPM at the set point.

-Jerry

9100,
The 2 KW rating is a Continuous duty rating, that motor can muster a lot more than 2 KW if run intermittent; such as during acceleration. if you are not pushing the lathe hard, 2 KW would do OK.

The nemesis at those low ratings is inertia mismatch but then again, we are not talking about precision positioning either.

as to cogging; what macona said....not an issue


Sean

"Shunt wound or permanent magnet field DC motors will deliver full torque down to stall, although motors not specifically designed for servo use usually "cog", making a jerky motion as the armature coils pass the field."

Note that I referred to motors not designed as servos. PM DC motors like the Baldor series show no cogging whatsoever. OTH, I made a drive for a Grainger gearhead motor powering a rose engine, about 1/10 hp as I recall, and the cogging was severe. We had to go to a real servo motor to get a smooth motion. After all that, the jerk never paid me.

As to overload capacity, I guess it depends on the work. I have a 15 hp DC motor on my R15 Sheldon and frequently run it above 70% current for long periods on heavy cuts. Since the motor is only running at a fraction of max speed, the hp delivered is not that great, but amps are what heat up the windings.

Bill

Thanks for all your help I now know what I need to look for

Originally Posted by Andbl33

Thanks for all your help I now know what I need to look for

I am re building a 10EE, the motor Gen was toasted when we got it, the box on the side for most of the wiring didnt seem wired correctly, in the wiring Diagram I got it shows the 4 wires from the exciter going to terminals 1F and 2F, I dont have those showing, is there an alternate wiring for them?...I see in a google search for images they have some going to what looks like GF1 and GF2....but theres only 2 wires there...Help please

Originally Posted by Chief_Cabioch

I am re building a 10EE, the motor Gen was toasted when we got it, the box on the side for most of the wiring didnt seem wired correctly, in the wiring Diagram I got it shows the 4 wires from the exciter going to terminals 1F and 2F, I dont have those showing, is there an alternate wiring for them?...I see in a google search for images they have some going to what looks like GF1 and GF2....but theres only 2 wires there...Help please

Welcome aboard Chief!

You might want to start a new thread about your machine.

Photos of the terminal panel on the side of the motor/generator (MG) and of the DC control panel (the big panel next to the spindle motor, under the headstock) would be helpful.

You say that the MG is "toasted". What are the symptoms? If an MG set has sat for an extended period of time the exciter may simply need to be "flashed" to get it up and running. If the exciter has failed it can be replaced with a simple DC power supply.

Cal