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DC motor height '43 round dial MG

gpcoe

Aluminum
Joined
Nov 21, 2009
Location
Bennington, NH USA
Hello,

I asked this question here: http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/monarch-lathes/so-happened-while-moving-my-10ee-276518/, but I didn't get a response in what's probably a crowded out thread now with a different topic.

I am looking for the height from the base of the feet (including isolators) to the centerline of the motor on the original DC motor. I seem to have lost my notes from when I removed it and I'm in the middle of building up a mount for the new motor. This would be dead helpful over trial and error.

Thanks

Greg
 
I am looking for the height from the base of the feet (including isolators) to the centerline of the motor on the original DC motor. I seem to have lost my notes from when I removed it and I'm in the middle of building up a mount for the new motor. This would be dead helpful over trial and error.

Thanks

Greg

Given a 'new' - presumably AC 3-P motor? Trial & error is probably wot you NEED.

Per ignorant carpenter's steel-tape a 'large frame' 3 HP Reliance used in that era has a shaft centreline roughly 7 3/4" to 8" above the soles of its bare feet. Call it 7 7/8"?

I have three surface plates, three large-frame motors. They just ain't none of 'em in convenient juxtaposition, so those are stoop. squat, and Ben Dover rough measurements.

You WILL need to shim - ELSE incorporate jackscrews - in order to get 'really good' belt alignment, regardless. That, of course, is a "Vanilla" situation as far as motor and Vee belt 'onesies' go. JFDI.

Bill
 
I have my motor apart so it's easy to measure the housing.
Without the rubber cushions, the housing sits 1/4" higher than where the legs touch the base.
The housing alone is 15 1/2" OD.
This is a 1943 round dial 3hp Reliance motor.
It's been a while but I think the motor base plate was on jack screws so you can adjust belt tension.
 

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Thanks for the replies!! Accuracy doesn't need to be perfect. Within 1/4" should be good enough for a start point. As Monarchist said, there will probably be some trial and error. I'm just looking for the starting point.
 
It's been a while but I think the motor base plate was on jack screws so you can adjust belt tension.


Nah. The 'piggyback' exciter is mounted to the MG that way. No other means of belt tension adjustment.

The final-drive motor, OTOH, has resilient mounts at three points between the large mounting plate and the frame / base casting.

Motor atop that has four-point mounting, and my 1942 had made-up stacks of steel shims. Those would be for alignment of the twin "A" section vee belts, not much to do with tensioning.

Their tension is controlled by two idlers, one each side of the belt path ('front' and 'rear').

From the look of the Glyptal, it looks as if the motor on the '42 had been out and refurbished at least once, so the shimming might not be 100% OEM.

If scratch-building the whole shebang, I'm a big fan of mounting motors for Vee-belted systems on swing plates or sliding rails. Alignment and tensioning separately derived/controlled, but within one mechanism.

Bill
 








 
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