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10EE

Mr. O

Cast Iron
Joined
Feb 13, 2007
Location
Mi. USA
Have a Lathe I may go look at, I have some pics of it, but none of the ways, so I can't tell if it's been dogged or not. Reportedly it runs well and can be inspected under power.
I can't quite make out the mfg. date in the pic, looks like 2-42, or 2-62.

Maybe you guys can tell me some general info by looking at the pic's ?

Monarch10EE.jpg



Monarch10EE1.jpg



10EE2.jpg



10EE5.jpg



10EE4.jpg


Thanks for any help you can give.

Kerry
 
"I can't quite make out the mfg. date in the pic, looks like 2-42, or 2-62"

It's a Modular drive, made in 1962, not 1942.

In 1942, Monarch was still making M-G drives, and possibly also "old height" machines, and probably also M-G machines.

The QCTP is a Phase II (Taiwan clone of Aloris). Can't tell the manufacturer of the chuck, although is could be a Buck. The Ingersol-Rand coolant pump looks strange. Brown & Sharp Model 220 was usual for 10EEs.

Small tailstock spindle.

Otherwise, an unremarkable Modular machine (although all 10EEs are light-years above any would-be competitive machine, and, hence, rather remarkable, as lathes go).
 
Looks to have been treated lightly, not alot of dings in the knobs or levers, oil stains, frosting is clean on the saddle. Looks like a great canaidate for a keeper,hope its powered up to check it for running. Good Luck
 
Like Tom said the knobs and levers seem to be in good to very good shape. Oil in the sight glass and not all over the lathe.

The top of the tailstock and the base are two different colors. The tailstock is the smaller diameter quill(I'm not sure when they changed to the larger diameter quill).

Thats the first 10EE that I noticed frosting on the front edge of the carriage.

Whats the triangular cap on the right hand end of the carriage?

Worth a look.

Tell us what you find.

Hal
 
I'd say it looks pretty good, except for that nuclear glow in the shot of the pump. Might need a little work with the Geiger counter and cadmium wash.
 
Peter

Nice trick, it shows the repaint job.

Peter the tag on the bottom of the pump compartment. Is it to identify the pump?

Hal
 
Repaint on part of the base obvious with the bad masking job around the buttons.

Looks like a conduit box cover from a motor on top of the saddle, wonder where that belongs?

Notice the upper tailstock and it's base are different colors (or appear so in the pic).

There does appear to be oil showing in the sight glasses.

Something else is bugging me about the pics, but I can't put my finger on it...

Taper attachment or not?

Just a few quick thoughts,

Rob
 
"Nice trick, it shows the repaint job."

Photoshop is one's friend.

All I did was "Invert" and then set "Image Size" to 300 dpi and 4" wide.


"Peter the tag on the bottom of the pump compartment. Is it to identify the pump?"

It appears that the IR pump has a different mounting than the B&S 220 pump.

Perhaps the IR pump data is on the base, and not on the pump itself as it is on the B&S pump.

Otherwise, the plumbing, including the "street ell", and the increaser, is pretty much the same as on the B&S pump.

The B&S pump takes a standard 56C frame motor. The IR pump looks like it takes a proprietary mount motor.

Yes ... no oil in the front spindle bearing. Not a good sign.

The frosting on the carriage might be someone's ideal of an "instant rebuilt" ... sort of like a "Rust-Oleum rebuild". Shame on them!
 
The Negative image of the Mfg tag made it a bit easier for me to read, tho I still couldn't get the date to pop out ...lol....

I know nothing about Monarchs, except that it seems a lot of people think very highly of them.

It is unknown at present if there is any tooling or accessories included, tho I suppose there could be, the company is closed down and all equipment is for sale.

Good call on the empty sight glass, and the repaint job.

The drive system seems complicated from what I have been reading here, as a home shop Machinist I would hate to get a machine that would be difficult, (exspensive) to repair should something go bad with it....

They are asking 2500, and saying will go as low as 1800...

Thanks for all the comments and observations.

Kerry
 
I agree with majority of replies. It is definitely a 1962, (like mine w/o ELSR and mine is Metric) probably a buck chuck. The Ingersol Rand pump is the same, howerver on mine I was able to replace it as I'm pretty sure it was a 56C motor. It seems there was some fitting work done. My memory of 5 years ago recalls that I had to tap the motor shaft, which is delicate. So when you get ready, shoot for a motor with a tapped shaft. The lower gearbox - no oil is maybe a problem. You can remove the front plate easily and have access to see if it has been RUN without oil, or is just without oil now. On the spindle - NEW QUESTION - the oil level on the far right tends to drain down into the main resevoir on mine. I usually give it a couple squirts when it is low, but it also seems to balance out a little during operation. I also put a ball valve on the main drain and take a little out every now and then. Can anyone enlighten me on what is going on? I can pretty much tell WHAT is happening. The question is, Is it supposed to happen? Any remedies? Along the same lines, I was drafted into major spindle operations because the threading bushings seized on the gear. The speedometer gear is supposed to splash up to a little trough that feeds tiny copper lines to lube the bushings. I am considering a Bijur oiler or belt driven pump to actively supply oil to vitals. Please advise, over, . . . humbly reqeusted, Justin in Denver
 
By the way, I paid $5,000.00 for mine 5 years ago at 29 and have never regretted it once. If I had the room in my already stuffed 3 car garage, I would fight you for it at $2,500.00 - BUY IT!! It looks to be in pretty good condition for 45 years old. Pictures of the electronics would be good, but I would expect that they are in pretty decent order.
 
Search the archives on oil movement between the sections. The info is there along with the scoop directly from Monarch.

No need to add a belt driven pump. This isnt a chinese machine where you need to redesign it as you use it. As long as you maintain it and keep the oil clean you should be OK.
 








 
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