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ELSR Apron Sump Removal

whateg0

Aluminum
Joined
Mar 24, 2009
Location
Wichita, KS
While not needed for getting things apart right now, this is something I want to address before I start putting the bottom of my apron back together. When I went to remove the sump on my apron, at first I couldn't get it off because of the ELSR control rod. So, I got it out of the way. Then I pulled the 6 screws holding the apron sump in place and went to lower it down only to find that it wouldn't come down all the way. Either the elbow fitting for the pump is too close to the ELSR apron gear box or part EE3797, the bushing that the gear rides in and contains the rod wiper, extends too far to the left. Or, they designed it so the apron can't be removed without removing the gearbox first, which doesn't make sense. Is this normal?

I had to drill the taper pins on mine to get them to drive out, but new #4 taper pins are on their way and should be here this coming week.

I'm considering removing a little material off the end of part EE3797. It doesn't look like much is needed to get it to clear. The alternatives would be to modify the fitting, if it can be done, or to relieve the sump itself, which I don't really want to do.
 
While not needed for getting things apart right now, this is something I want to address before I start putting the bottom of my apron back together. When I went to remove the sump on my apron, at first I couldn't get it off because of the ELSR control rod. So, I got it out of the way. Then I pulled the 6 screws holding the apron sump in place and went to lower it down only to find that it wouldn't come down all the way. Either the elbow fitting for the pump is too close to the ELSR apron gear box or part EE3797, the bushing that the gear rides in and contains the rod wiper, extends too far to the left. Or, they designed it so the apron can't be removed without removing the gearbox first, which doesn't make sense. Is this normal?

I had to drill the taper pins on mine to get them to drive out, but new #4 taper pins are on their way and should be here this coming week.

I'm considering removing a little material off the end of part EE3797. It doesn't look like much is needed to get it to clear. The alternatives would be to modify the fitting, if it can be done, or to relieve the sump itself, which I don't really want to do.

I discovered the same problem with my 1977 10EE with ELSR when I first got it 15 years ago. Seems odd that the routine maintenance of changing the oil filter in the apron is made so difficult. I milled a bit off the right end of the sump casting so that it would clear the left bushing in the ELSR apron gear box. There's now a scant 3/32 inch gap between the right end of the sump casting and the left side of the ELSR apron gear box. Now the "only" thing I need to do to remove the sump casting is un-pin the ELSR control rod and move it to the right (after removing the end cover on that casting at the tailstock end) until it disappears into the ELSR apron gear box. And then of course when done move the control rod back in place and re-pin it and replace the end cover.
David
 
I haven't started to put this back together yet, but I may take a little off of the sump casting and a little off of the bushing, too. There isn't that much meat to the sump, IMO - less than 1/4" anyway.
 
Well, I did some looking at all the parts last night. Since I like to make things difficult on myself, I don't want the gap between the sump casting and the body of the ELSR gearbox, so the current plan is to machine off a little bit from the end of the bushing and then machine a recess in the sump casting so that what's left can slide through that gap. From the front, all will look completely original. This past few days, I've been pretty lazy, so I haven't done much with it. I need to get busy again and make some more progress so I can see where else I need to make progress.
 








 
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