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I am looking for a supplier for exciter motor brush springs on my 1954 10ee. Please let me know if you know where to purchase them. Thanks!
On a side note, do you think a guy could make brushes out of graphite for edm electrodes? I will keep you updated with what I find.
The Motor company I am in contact with is still awaiting reply from Baldor so I may still have a chance at getting the rocker. I got more information on the retrofit. It's a box that you mount on the machine that completely replaces the the exciter motor. Problem is its a thousand dollars. I read a post on here about somebody replacing the exciter with a home built transformer. I don't know much about this subject but I'm learning as I go. Seems like there should be a cheaper solution.
There are lots of motor/generator 10EEs using a simple bridge rectifier circuit to provide DC for the system. One way to do it is to bring in 5-wire service to the machine: the three "hot" phases (one of which will be the artificial phase, if using a rotary phase converter), the grounded "neutral" (or white wire) and the green safety ground. By going from one of the real hot leads to the neutral, you have 120 VAC to feed into the rectifier, which produces about 90 VDC, which is good enough for most users. It's best to install a GFCI in front of the rectifier, in case the rectifier shorts out, and you definitely want the machine and the GFCI well grounded. This also gives you a 120 AC outlet at the machine for a work light or what have you. I addition to the rectifier, you need some slow-blow fuses and an MOV to protect the rectifier from switching transients.... I got more information on the retrofit. It's a box that you mount on the machine that completely replaces the the exciter motor. Problem is its a thousand dollars. I read a post on here about somebody replacing the exciter with a home built transformer. I don't know much about this subject but I'm learning as I go. Seems like there should be a cheaper solution.
have 120 VAC to feed into the rectifier, which produces about 90 VDC, which is good enough for most users.
Thanks guys. Give me some time to digest all the great information you have provided me.
Monarchist,
I tried to pm you but your inbox is full
I kinda figured you were going to say that.
I spent some time the other night with my damaged spring. Not realizing before how soft that spring material actually was I rebent it and pulled some extra length out of it. I put it back together quickly and tried it. It functioned fine for the few minutes I played with it.
The "large frame" 3 HP final-drive motors used in MG era 10EE are four-wire, straight shunt. The four wires being Armature A1,A2, Field F1,F2.Could you guys explain a little more on how the motor generator compensates rpm with varying load
Today I installed my new resistors and the start stop issue has so far been solved.
I have now surprisingly discovered another problem.
I was running the machine testing the new resistors and could see the drive motor brushes sparking more than normal, plus I could smell it too. When I run the drive motor the brush holder ring will actually rotate slowly with the commutator which I have learned will make the timing become off plus cause all the added sparking. It looks like the pinch bolt gap to hold it in place has 2 washers in it and I'll have to remove one to get more squeeze out of it. As for the brush timing, I read can be tuned in by energizing the field coil with 120 volts ac. Once energized, you rotate the ring until you achieve the lowest possible voltage reading taken at the brushes.
I have gotten this far with it but certainly do not want to mess anything up. Can anyone advise me in greater detail to how this tuning is performed. Like what wires I should be tapping into and how are the electrical readings made at the brushes. I have not found anything that specific on it but I will keep looking in the meantime.
Thank you again
Axel
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