What's new
What's new

FAQ on lubrication? Is there one.

Rick Kruger

Aluminum
Joined
Aug 24, 2002
Location
Halfway, OR
I have a "new to me" 1946 10EE that is in immaculate shape. I've just recently got it transported to my shop. I'm using a rotary phase converter to power it and it runs great. Problem is, I see almost no oil in the sight glasses. I need to get them filled before I use it much. Is there somewhere I can go to find out what lubricants are needed for the various sections. I have some very light spindle oil that was for a SB 9" plain bearing lathe, but I am doubtful it is suitable for the headstock. I have way oil so I think that will work for the carriage and other stuff downstream. I looded for a FAQ on this but did not find it.

Thanks,

Rick
 
I have a "new to me" 1946 10EE that is in immaculate shape. I've just recently got it transported to my shop. I'm using a rotary phase converter to power it and it runs great. Problem is, I see almost no oil in the sight glasses. I need to get them filled before I use it much. Is there somewhere I can go to find out what lubricants are needed for the various sections. I have some very light spindle oil that was for a SB 9" plain bearing lathe, but I am doubtful it is suitable for the headstock. I have way oil so I think that will work for the carriage and other stuff downstream. I looded for a FAQ on this but did not find it.

Thanks,

Rick

Lube info plus cross references is buried in at least three threads if not more. Worth hunting those up and reading for the discussion surrounding the options, modern conversions, and rationale of it all anyway.

Search within Monarch Forum with terms such as Mobil, Vactra, DTE Light, DTE medium, DTE heavy, ELSE from Google, externally.

Meanwhile, the very costly HS spindle ball-bearings are picky, and anything SB used for Iron OR Bronze 'plain' bearing oil is almost certainly wrong for them - save that, short-term, nearly ANYTHING is better than being run 'dry'.

The rest of the lathe is less fussy, but WTH - the 'proper' lubes are not hard to source, so no good reason to experiment with other than what was recommended.

NB: The spindle-bearings - separate front and rear cavities - principle drain is the sight glass itself.
Even an El Cheapo Harbor Freight adjustable pin-spanner can be used to 'twist' those to gently break the bond of the cork gasket once all three screws are removed.

"Glass" is nearly always obscured by varnish, needs cleaned or replaced. Lexan works - I have been know to rob it from HF LED flashlights and use O-rings to re-seal.

Monarch also has the 'proper' parts which fit better-yet. AFAIK, they also ship Lexan now rather than the fragile old flint glass. Others have utilized watch crystals, high-grade armoured glass or otherwise.
 
Thanks. I'll chase that down. I have a very "partial" manual. There is a reference to a lubrication chart of some sort, but that is not part of what I have. I'm wondering where I can find the portion regarding lubrication that is missing from my manual.

Rick
 
Thanks. I'll chase that down. I have a very "partial" manual. There is a reference to a lubrication chart of some sort, but that is not part of what I have. I'm wondering where I can find the portion regarding lubrication that is missing from my manual.

Rick

AFAIK, the manuals Monarch ship when you order by your Serial Number still have the original lube names in them.

PM has the updated cross-refs, and Mobil's own Lube Engineers have answered some of the questions members have posed in cases where it wasn't clear which of two - or more - new branches off one older one, or which case where one new replaced two old, we should track for the 10EE's needs.
 








 
Back
Top