Fire up 5hp 240volt 1966 module drive monarch 10ee

Hi I'm sorry but I read a lot of post without finding the exact answer to my question.

I have a 1966 module drive with 5hp motor and it seem like I don't need to plug it on 3 phases to get it going? It was plug on 3 phases 200-something volt from the company I bought it from.

I red on lathe.uk that you can run this model on a static phase converter. I also have a moore jig borer 1 1/2 to plug on 3 phases so this is something I'm considering to buy, but the monarch have some other electrical problems. If I can plug it in a oven plug and start trouble shooting it right away I'll be happy and later get it back on the 3 phases.

Can you help me to make this 240 volt transformation?

THANKS
Simon

The lathe motor only needs single phase, the coolant pump, if you have one will be 3-phase. Take a look at Rob Nowell's series on youtube. Start at the 5 minute mark on 1965 Monarch 1EE: Part 2 Electrical Repairs - YouTube

John S01 said:

The lathe motor only needs single phase, the coolant pump, if you have one will be 3-phase. Take a look at Rob Nowell's series on youtube. Start at the 5 minute mark on 1965 Monarch 1EE: Part 2 Electrical Repairs - YouTube

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I John I talk with Robby he told me that I need to set up the filament transformer wiring and it's that detail I can't find on PM forum.

Simon&Simon's said:

I John I talk with Robby he told me that I need to set up the filament transformer wiring and it's that detail I can't find on PM forum.

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It IS covered on PM. Several times.

And you may not need to do anything more than "check" it (or have someone else do so).

Unless.. the lathe WAS being run on 480 VAC, single-phase, and is now to be run on 240 VAC single-phase. Or the reverse.

In which case, you have other changes to make as well, also covered on PM, and more than once.

Doesn't sound likely if the PO was running on "200 something-ish" single-phase.

You may be just fine, as-is.

A Module Drive 10EE doesn't use 3-Phase.. except for the coolant pump, as mentioned.
No defensible reason for that anomaly is known, nor likely to be.

Just replace THAT nuisance with a single-phase coolant pump as the factory should have done.

Also check your worklight wiring if you have one. Probably corrected well before your one was made, but to save scarce Copper, some WWII production 10EE fed but ONE wire to the worklight, used the machine casting for the other.


End of problem. 100% Single phase.

Well, lathe is firing up... but the pc close but fall open after I read the troubleshooting in the manual but I would like if I can have some help trouble shooting each of them...

A-Control off button defective (check it right now)
B-Temperature switch
C-Field Loss Relay
D-dIODES IN REC No. 3 defective - Not this since 3amp fuse still good
E-small C3J Tube defective
F-Temperature Switch open dut to overheating.

I check voltage going out of the transformer T6 and T7 I got 2.8v and a variation on the left going from 1.6v to 3v quickly.

Do you know where this Temperature Switch is?