First Monarch

MICK 1958 · Apr 29, 2017

New to me, it is a 1976 and I am picking it up on Wednesday.

I do not know much if anything about them, I have a Hardinge HLV-H EM and have had a few other machines that I wish I would not have sold.... Rivett 1030.

But, Any information or what to look out for would be greatly appreciated.

Will post better pictures once I get it to my shop.

Looks as if a part of the taper attachment may be missing, and why the back is loose.... I only hope it is for inspection.

Thanks
Mick

Monarchist · Apr 29, 2017

MICK 1958 said:
New to me, it is a 1976 and I am picking it up on Wednesday.

I do not know much if anything about them, I have a Hardinge HLV-H EM and have had a few other machines that I wish I would not have sold.... Rivett 1030.

But, Any information or what to look out for would be greatly appreciated.

Will post better pictures once I get it to my shop.

View attachment 197355 View attachment 197356 View attachment 197357

Looks as if a part of the taper attachment may be missing, and why the back is loose.... I only hope it is for inspection.

Thanks
Mick

Looks to be a better starting point than average, congrats!

Scout PM's annals on all things Monarch, "Modular" or "Module drive" most of all.

Call or email Monarch lathe LP with your serial-number, order the specific manual for it, and ask them to whom it was originally shipped.

Helps you to have sight of the info. Helps them to have an idea what is still 'alive' out in the world and might still need parts, going forward.

Member vettebob casts, and optionally finishes replacement TA clamps, fabs nice linkage rods with nut as well. One of each was 90% of all my TA needed.

traditional-tools · Apr 29, 2017

Nice score Mick!

Now I see why you were selling that cute Harrison 10 AA. I'm surprised nobody stepped up to the plate on that one, looks like a pretty solid little lathe.

You had a Rivett 1030 ? Pretty rare bird. You must regret getting rid of it, but it looks like you found a nice lathe with this Monarch.

The first thing in order would be if the electrical works or not. Seems that many are taken out of working environments with electrical problems. Lucky for you there are a number of people here that know how to troubleshoot electrical on these beasts. Once you make sure the electrical is working, start giving her a bath!

Good luck, hope this cleans up really nice for you.

Cheers,
Alan

rke[pler · Apr 29, 2017

Square dial modular drive with ELSR. You might need the taper bed clamp, but it could be under the steady rest in the bed. Looks like a decent lathe.

MICK 1958 · Apr 30, 2017

Thanks everyone for the encouraging words...

Yes, Alan.... I regret selling the Rivett, It was twice the machine that I see in every other one.... A friend made me an offer I could not refuse. It was one of the last ones built with the serial number of 575... So, I am told. It was very quiet and my friend took the drive assembly out and put a 10 horsepower VFD???? Which is now silent!

Monarchist, I did in fact contact Monarch and for 75 dollars they will generate me a book that is for my particular machine. They told me it was originally sold to a company in Texas. I purchased it in Deeeetroit!!!

I will keep you informed when I pick it up and try powering it up...

Thanks Again!

Mick

Monarchist · Apr 30, 2017

MICK 1958 said:
Monarchist, I did in fact contact Monarch and for 75 dollars they will generate me a book that is for my particular machine. They told me it was originally sold to a company in Texas. I purchased it in Deeeetroit!!!

Most 10EE have interesting back-stories. If they could but talk, they'd never have to buy a meal or a round of drinks!

My 1942, SN 17120, Monarch simply said was sold to "Ford".

I pondered over that for a while. Need to ask for more detail someday.

I'm wondering if perhaps it was the "Other Ford" - Hannibal Ford's "Ford Instrument Company", those who made uber-precise mechanical/electrical analog fire control computers for US Navy guns, not the totally-unrelated Ford the vehicle-always and aircraft-sometimes makers.

MICK 1958 · May 3, 2017

Well, two bottles of Greased Lightning and 6 hours later and it cleaned up very nice. I can see the Cushman chuck, with reversible jaws. Did not find the clamp for the taper attachment... Looks easy enough to make. Tried putting power to it... the data tag says it is 460 volts but I have seen things like this in the past and started out at 240 knowing that low voltage should not hurt anything.... Nothing, switched to 460 and when I pushed the button ... I heard the contractor attempt to pull in... would not stay in. I called Monarch and purchased a book from "Steve". He talked me through some testing... I will wait for the book. I included some pictures of the machine after cleaning in this series of photos.

MICK 1958 · May 4, 2017

Here is the latest on my new project, after opening the control panel it was apparent after finding the "blue smoke" and paper residue and a wire with no place to "rest"... Maybe that is why it was taken out of service or sold?

Book is scheduled to arrive Friday late according to UPS...

Can anyone help me identify what is blown and where the wire might go?

Thank you for your help!

Mick

Monarchist · May 4, 2017

MICK 1958 said:
Here is the latest on my new project, after opening the control panel it was apparent after finding the "blue smoke" and paper residue and a wire with no place to "rest"... Maybe that is why it was taken out of service or sold?

Book is scheduled to arrive Friday late according to UPS...

Can anyone help me identify what is blown and where the wire might go?

View attachment 197772 View attachment 197773 View attachment 197774 View attachment 197775

Thank you for your help!

Mick

Get a few more pics. Back-off so you get the whole Magilla. I think it has been messed-with. It may no longer quite match your incoming schematic or P/N.

MICK 1958 · May 5, 2017

Called Monarch today and they tell me the part that is "blown up" is a QSD relay, from what he has described to me it is a bridge rectifier... he has a take out for 250.00~... Yet he cannot tell me why it has blown... The disconnected wire is for the braking system and he seems to think that they were having trouble with it (possibly the bridge rectifier) and it was staying engaged. ???

I am not an electrical engineer, or even a novice; but I think I can build a bridge rectifier from radio shack parts for about 6.00

Not being a cheapskate, but for me to spend 250.00 plug it in and the same thing happen.... I would rather waste the 6.00

If I am going down the wrong road... please intervene and save me!

Mick

Monarchist · May 5, 2017

MICK 1958 said:
Called Monarch today and they tell me the part that is "blown up" is a QSD relay, from what he has described to me it is a bridge rectifier... he has a take out for 250.00~... Yet he cannot tell me why it has blown... The disconnected wire is for the braking system and he seems to think that they were having trouble with it (possibly the bridge rectifier) and it was staying engaged. ???

I am not an electrical engineer, or even a novice; but I think I can build a bridge rectifier from radio shack parts for about 6.00

Not being a cheapskate, but for me to spend 250.00 plug it in and the same thing happen.... I would rather waste the 6.00

If I am going down the wrong road... please intervene and save me!

Mick

View attachment 197821

"Radio Shack" is now unobtanium AFAIK, but yaazz.

Digi-Key, Mouser, etc..

Good idea to use 'sacrificial priced' parts first, better fit later. Bridges don't blow because of sexual preferences.

Plan a PIV of at least 1200 V for spikes, higher rated is better. Ditto more Amps and MIL-SPEC temps in reserve. Splice-in local fuses temporarily.

Not always cheaper than rectifiers, but much less messy - they swallow when they blow..

Don't forget that you will forget.

IOW - don't depart from factory as-built casually, or you'll be head-scratching five years down the road to support yer own Franken-sparker, and the next minders on the roster at 25 or 50 year intervals will be calling you 'Bubba the f***wit'.

MICK 1958 · May 5, 2017

I understand what you are saying about the Bubba thing....

Yes, the local radio shack is going out of business and they are selling everything at 5%.

Even so, I can buy from commercial supply house very reasonably.. I have been looking at the QSD on this forum... it does not look anything like what I am needing.... is there an upgrade? or is mine the upgrade?

I just received the "book" and will be studying for the next few hours much to my wife chagrin....

Thanks Bill...

I will let you know what is going on...

Monarchist · May 5, 2017

MICK 1958 said:
is there an upgrade? or is mine the upgrade?

If anyone still has any info on what was used here, it is probably Monarch.

Even so - 'Big Corp' and DoD and contractors most of all did all sorts off one-off or few-off 'updates' to drives and even DC motors. Doubt they bothered to tell Monarch Machine Tool, then or Monarch Lathe, later, what they had been up to..

My apparently ex-WiaD 3 HP small frame Reliance had once had a GE tachogenerator on its arse, yet the WiaD never had an input that could have used such an animal. Had to have been an early / mid tech solid-state DC Drive, and possibly minority maker, if not fully custom made. I'd suspect the stock GE DC-XXX series, 3-P input-only DC Drives just based on the bulky GE tacho. DC drives were never at all hard if one had 3-P.

By this stage, our 10EE are going similar to '57 Chevvies. Most of them out there have been modified, and in many ways.

WHHJR · May 5, 2017

"...
IOW - don't depart from factory as-built casually, or you'll be head-scratching five years down the road to support yer own Franken-sparker, and the next minders on the roster at 25 or 50 year intervals will be calling you 'Bubba the f***wit'..."

Build a book. Document everything, saves memory cells and makes it more valuable for the inevitable future sale.

2¢

spaeth · May 14, 2017

Mick,
Pretty nice looking 10EE. You will like it once it's up and
running. If the ELSR feature works as it should you will find
threading to to be a breeze. My 10EE has that also and is 30
years older, a 1946. Last week I was tasked to chase some
oversized 1-1/8" x 7 male threads 2" long. 20 pcs Hardly finished
that job and was handed a part needing a 1-5/16" x 12 female
3" deep. Both jobs were very satisfying to do on the Monarch
and moved right along. Mine has the original MG setup.
These are awesome machines
spaeth

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